I'll paypal 20$ to anyone who can get my truck started
#42
My family's F150 used to do that. Just give it a good tune up. Cap, rotor, and then consider/inspect plug wires and plugs. We got spark when we checked it too, that doesn't guarantee it's perfect. Since we did that, the truck has started great and run like a top, though it wasn't that much different. It wasn't too long ago, but the problem was a regular one in the v cold weather and now it's fine and has been fine since early January.
#43
#44
Whats funny is we had a break in the rain up here (seattle) so on the ride down i was thinking it was going to start, it didnt. Swaped the cap/rotor and after a flooded start she fired right up.
#45
Registered User
I'm positive. Mostly because Co 94 mentioned the rotor might be cracked right before I did. He held the nail, I just hammered it in. I don't want payment. Thanks though. Glad you got your problem solved! If you feel obligated to pay someone though, hit Co 94 up! hahaha!
#47
I'm positive. Mostly because Co 94 mentioned the rotor might be cracked right before I did. He held the nail, I just hammered it in. I don't want payment. Thanks though. Glad you got your problem solved! If you feel obligated to pay someone though, hit Co 94 up! hahaha!
#49
truck started hard yesterday after it was pouring out. I went searching for a distributor o-ring and o'rilies and auto zone and neither could find one in their computer. The o-ring snapped in half when i inspected it so it wasnt in good shape lol. So i sprayed some wd40 inside the distributor and used some rvt instead of the o-ring so im hoping she is finally fixed
#52
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Inspect the high tension cords for excessive resistence. 25 Ohm is the spec IIRC, it's covered in the book. There isn't alot to wear out on the distributor but you could check the gap on the pickup coils, also covered in the book. You could inspect the ignitor for damage to the wiring or boots. Fill the ignitor boots and plugs with electrical grease(when it's dry) to keep moisture out.
Also if you put an excessively heavy a layer of rtv it will increase the spark gap or make the rotor not contact the center tap(coil), you can gently flex that up also inspect it for arcing, I don't recall off hand if thats a "non-contact" part or not.
There is a step by step guide of tests to run in the manual engine section.
Also if you put an excessively heavy a layer of rtv it will increase the spark gap or make the rotor not contact the center tap(coil), you can gently flex that up also inspect it for arcing, I don't recall off hand if thats a "non-contact" part or not.
There is a step by step guide of tests to run in the manual engine section.
#53
Registered User
Have you inspected your timing chain guides? If they're worn out or broken, strange things can start happening, and since it starts after holding that down for a while, maybe it turns until the tensioner picks up the extra slack enough to run.
#54
Registered User
Has your issue been fixed? Spray ether around your injectors. If it is blown off or does anything other than just settle, your injectors aren't sealed properly. How's your idle when it does run? Perfect, a little jumpy, or constant miss? That can settle up tons of questions and answers. Because here's what I see. When the engine idle is perfect but starting is complicated, air is the easy culprit. A little jumpy, such as a miss every now and again, fuel. And constant miss would be ignition. How convenient, because what do we need to run an internal combustion engine? Why, fuel, air, and some type of spark or ignition catalyst. For our simple gassers, let's say fuel, air, spark. My grandfather has told me that about a million times when we work on a car, and you know, he's often right. However, the bummer with these newer vehicles that he doesn't work on is that they have electronics all over, so always consider that too. Check your truck for codes. If you don't know how, go get a paper clip, open your hood, you'll see a box labeled diagnostics on the side of your fuse box or at least around there if yours broke off like mine. Jump connectors E1 and T1, put your key to the ON position, and count your check engine light. Okay, this is starting to ramble. Let me know what you've tried and if any of that helped at all...
#55
Well im still having issues.
I would also like to extend a huge FU(K YOU to CO 94 PU, Not even a simple "got it" with the $20 I went out of my way to send him.
Karma's a bitch....
I would also like to extend a huge FU(K YOU to CO 94 PU, Not even a simple "got it" with the $20 I went out of my way to send him.
Karma's a bitch....
#56
Registered User
Explain your problem in detail. Is it the same as before? Have the symptoms changed to only show up based on weather? Read my last post and try that. Could be leaky injectors.
#57
Pretty Much the Same. I will get misfires while its warming up, and every once in a while ill get a no start. I have tried either, and checked the fuel system on previous times and everything always looks ok. I will also get a raw fuel smell from the exhaust while cranking. If it tries to start it will stumble a few times before it finally catches. Once warmed up or ran for a couple minutes it will be fine all day. Ill only have issues after it sits overnight
#58
Just started up again. had to turn it over twice when it did start it stumbled until it smoothed out. A nice rich smoke came out of the exhaust, presumably from it being flooded