where in the harness did you find the issue?

 

dumb suggestion because I know you have already checked it right...



but check your battery ground cable, both ends.. be sure it is clean and acid and rust free.

sometimes the simplest things are the ones we overlook...

I had a 1971 Mustang that would do something similar, it randomly it would just not start, ended up being a simple issue of a loose ground cable on the chasis side and hitting a bump during the drive was enough to cause it to shift, would go weeks with no issue then not work, then work..

replaced the cable, cleaned the chasis post and put on a lock washer and it never did it again.

this was after chasing it and spending a couple hundred in starters, batteries, regulators, etc..

 

Throw a new motor in it, should start then... I'll take my $20 now

 

Right idea....but I'd recommend spending the few dollars on some starting fluid.



Pretty simple, if it starts on starting fluid, it's a fuel issue, if not, it's a spark issue.

 

just after it split to the injectors out of the harness under the hood.definantly look in the cab at the ecm,yotas tend to leak in the corner of the winshield down on the ecm.

 

I used to have a Nissan pickup that would turn over forever and not start when the distributor got wet.

 

O2 sensor will do it. Many mechanics say it wont but it will. Had the same problem. I changed the O2 sensor and not once since.

 

If it's intermittent & linked with rain, you're definitely getting an electrical short somewhere. Take it through a car was & see where you've got water going to under the hood & ECU.

 

The 22re's have a factory splice in the wiring harness for the front two fuel injectors and the rear two fuel injectors located inbetween the 2nd and 3rd fuel injectors in the main harness. If any work was done in the area and the harness was compromised, water gets in shorts out the fuel injectors.

You have to get in there and see if the harness is in good condition at that splice. If not, pull out the soldering iron.

Also, the idea about the grounds...is the next place I would start. Grounds do weird things if there not connected...especially the ground for the fuel injectors.

 

already tried starting fluid and nothing

 

i need it running to do that lol

 

Might of missed your answer maybe. I know it was suggested.

Did you checked for signs of water in the passenger kick panel, rust dirt with clean "runs" thru it, that sort of thing. Verify the AFM "cap" is sealed, and the vent hole tape on the ECM is still intact, these are two places condensation will have a big impact.

You say you have fuel, you say you have spark at the plugs, presumably you have compression. But starting fluid doesn't even sputter a few cylinders?!

I thought I'd posted it but I didn't see it. The ignition switch may have a dead spot in it, these will vary in location mine's right at the beginning I get rotation but no spark.

 

I checked for condensation on the ecm previously and there was none.

 

Forgot to mash preview. sorry.

If it doesn't sputter on ether. It's something in the ignition system. The "original" water problem is in the distributor cap, the fix is to shoot some WD-40 and wipe it clean. Astmosphere condensation is enough to muck up the system sometimes. Do you find light "vapor' deposits on the oil cap, these can travel up the distributor shaft and condense in the cap i doesn't have to be coming thru the cap seal. Which is the other thing to check, lightly lube the oring when you dislodge the dist' cap to make sure it seals well and doesn't pinch and that the screws are tight.

 

I'm talking about IN the ecm, these are(should be) purged at the factory and the vent is taped closed. No tape over the vent will allow condensation inside. It's not usually a "killer" but it's something to check, I can't remeber if it's on the front or back cover sorry.

I guess we can ssume that compartment is secure. That just leaves engine bay stuff for the most part.

 

ill try a cap and rotor/ wd40 on mu next trip

 

Check the Door on the AFM sometimes you can get stuck and the vacuum from the engine wont pull it open and the truck wont start. Next time it doesnt start smack the top of it and see if it starts. Or take some scotchbrite to it and clean it up

 

Yeah you could pull off the air box and have someone crank it as you look to see if the flap opens, but I think a switch also shuts the fuel pump off if the flap doesn't open.

 

it was the cap and rotor lol. She is finally back home.

 

That means I won. I suggested it two pages ago. No payment is necessary. That's what we're here for on Yotatech.