briholt

I understand it's possible to service the idler arm with it still connected to the (relay rod) steering link, but i'd like to remove it, and it's on there tight.

I've trying to use a pickle fork as described here:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/

But It seems like it is not budging. I might have to go by a small puller (sorta like a BJ puller) but I guess for now I'm wondering if I can damage the link to the idler arm and relay rod (or other steering components) if I really hit that pickle fork hard.

poynter

I had to hit mine pretty hard and kept at it till my arms hurt. Went back later and did the same thing and it finally came off. I also used PB blaster and a 3 lb hammer.

CappyKD

I used a tie rod end puller. No beating required.

89rnr91rnr

I used a sledge hammer to hit the pickle fork and it popped right off. Using a regular hammer does not work.

flashkl

yeah, regular hammers just bounce back. deadblows are the way to go.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Use a small puller. No sense deforming something you want to reuse. Torque down the bolt on the puller, tap it with a hammer, torque again, and so on until it pops.

Wes94

I put a solid bar under the frame near the tow hook and over the relay rod. Put a jack under the other end and jacked it up till i started to lift the truck. 2 pops with a regular hammer and it came free. I was too cheap to buy a puller, you just have to make sure you don't take the bar in the teeth when it comes apart.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

A puller is less than $20 at an autoparts store and safe to use.

Wes94

Ha yeah, i figured someone would say that. I actually had already bought a puller and it didn't work at all and i was living quite far away from the store so i went for it. I did have safety glasses on..

briholt

In the top left corner of the following picture, where the idler arm connects to the steering relay rod (relay rod not pictured), there is a a little rubber boot thingy that fits in between.

What is that called, and where can I get a replacement? I'm not sure If I damaged it or if the previous owner did (I probably helped it along), but I'd like to get a new one.

I just called the local stealership and guy said that you can't buy them separately--that they come with tie-rod ends, for example. Does that sound right?


Anywhere aftermarket? They are just made of rubber.

briholt

bump. Sorry if it's a stupid question. Just not sure what to call them little buggers.

Jacobeo5

You can take your idler arm to a parts store and look for tie rod boots. only reason i say to take it with you is to eyeball the right size and save you a return trip for getting the wrong ones. You probably wont be able to find stock ones but "energy suspension" makes them for various uses. All they are simple polyurethane cups.

briholt

Thanks, just what I needed.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

I owe an apology to Wes... I just switched out idler arms today (replacing my bent Moog one with a bronze-bushing one) and for the life of me could not get my puller to fit.

If your idler is going bye-bye or you don't mind being hard on your stuff, a few good hammer smacks to the joint itself will pop it out of the taper fit.

briholt

So, to finish this thread, I've finally finished installing my refurbished idler arm. Works great, much tighter though I now I look forwarding doing a complete front end upgrade with poly.

Some things that through me for a loop:

#1. during the tear down, I must have bumped the wheel pretty hard which made it impossible for me to put the idler back on--nothing lined up. I was stumped until I realized that it was the wheel that had moved, and that i could just jack the truck up and turn the wheel. Problem solved.

#2. Although i found a part number for the idler arm dust boot (that goes in between the steering relay rod and the idler arm, the dealer wanted 15$ for it. This is the part number:45481-20010

So, I went to an Energy suspension dealer and got a tie rod dust boot (came in a pair--but the pair was only 5 bucks.) to fit. It's not a perfect fit, though. Here is the part number that seemed to fit best: 9.13103

Both the small and large opening fit just fine, but the whole thing is a bit too tall. But upon putting it together, it squishes up pretty tight so I'm not worrying about this as a daily driver. If it were to see a lot of mud and water, I might keep an eye on it.

snobdds

You should post up a picture of the final product, I would like to see how that dust boot looks. I need to do the same and I might go that route.
thanks

briholt

Here is the pic of what the energy suspension boot looks like at the end of the idler arm. You can see how it's too tall. In the picture, where the boot actually comes into contact with the arm itself, the boot is puckered. If this boot were shaved by maybe 5mm shorter, it might fit.

snobdds

Thats not bad at all. Good idea. I am going to do it...