Idler arm for 1st gen
#1
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Idler arm for 1st gen
While installing my BJ spacers this weekend I was shown my idler arm is well worn. The Toyota dealer today quoted me $241.00 for a new one. This seemed insane for a small bit of metal. Anyone know if this is far too much I have seen them on e-bay for alot less but worry about quality. Any help would be appreciated.
e-bay example, how bad could thisbe compared to from the dealer.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-IDL...spagenameZWDVW
e-bay example, how bad could thisbe compared to from the dealer.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-IDL...spagenameZWDVW
Last edited by SKNKWRX; 12-17-2007 at 10:01 AM.
#2
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While installing my BJ spacers this weekend I was shown my idler arm is well worn. The Toyota dealer today quoted me $241.00 for a new one. This seemed insane for a small bit of metal. Anyone know if this is far too much I have seen them on e-bay for alot less but worry about quality. Any help would be appreciated.
e-bay example, how bad could thisbe compared to from the dealer.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-IDL...spagenameZWDVW
e-bay example, how bad could thisbe compared to from the dealer.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-IDL...spagenameZWDVW
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/
While you're at it, you might consider beefing it up with Downey's idler arm gusset (scroll down the page towards the bottom 3rd)
http://www.downeyoff-road.com/Suspen...s/1986-95.html
Will
#3
I'm a bit of an idler arm specialist after snapping one, destroying a dozen or so stock-type plastic bushings and finally having to heavily mod/redesign my stock idler arm to hold up under extreme use. My recommendation would also be to rebuild your existing one using bushings of the HIGHEST quality. The high performance manganese bronze bushings found on CustomMachiningUSA.com will fit your application if your idler arm is stock. The kit includes a drill & tap, a zerk fitting, and both bushings.
I've been using those bushings for awhile, and they are AWESOME! Withstanding the worst I can throw at them without the least bit of noticeable wear. FAR more strength/durability than the plastic bushings found in most idler arms(at least the ones that DON'T cost $300 and use roller bearings, i.e. TC idler arm).
You should also get a brace for it if you want a steering system you can have max confidence in. Defenitely consider the bronze bushings if you do though. Because once you install the brace/truss it transfers ALL the strain onto the bushings. Stock/plastic bushings DO NOT hold up well in idler arms that have been braced and no longer have any flex/give to lessen the forces placed on them. Might sound odd, it suprised me anyway, but trust me on it. So if one were wanting to brace their idler arm to save the bushings from wear, FORGET IT! NOT HAPPNIN'! They'll wear just as fast or likely, based on my personal experiences, MUCH faster.
Do both though and you'll have one TOUGH idler arm. That should mean something coming from someone who has broken more parts on his Toyota than probably 90% of they guys on this site anyways. Like I said, you won't find any better setup for less than $300.
I've been using those bushings for awhile, and they are AWESOME! Withstanding the worst I can throw at them without the least bit of noticeable wear. FAR more strength/durability than the plastic bushings found in most idler arms(at least the ones that DON'T cost $300 and use roller bearings, i.e. TC idler arm).
You should also get a brace for it if you want a steering system you can have max confidence in. Defenitely consider the bronze bushings if you do though. Because once you install the brace/truss it transfers ALL the strain onto the bushings. Stock/plastic bushings DO NOT hold up well in idler arms that have been braced and no longer have any flex/give to lessen the forces placed on them. Might sound odd, it suprised me anyway, but trust me on it. So if one were wanting to brace their idler arm to save the bushings from wear, FORGET IT! NOT HAPPNIN'! They'll wear just as fast or likely, based on my personal experiences, MUCH faster.
Do both though and you'll have one TOUGH idler arm. That should mean something coming from someone who has broken more parts on his Toyota than probably 90% of they guys on this site anyways. Like I said, you won't find any better setup for less than $300.
Last edited by MudHippy; 12-17-2007 at 03:52 PM.
#4
Registered User
And if you WANT to spend $300
Total Chaos will send you a "king kong" idler arm.
You have to drill out the relay rod to 5/8 to use it.
Ooops - MudHippy already said that...
Total Chaos will send you a "king kong" idler arm.
You have to drill out the relay rod to 5/8 to use it.
Ooops - MudHippy already said that...
#6
Registered User
#7
Toyota told me I needed a brand new one for something like $300CAD. I replaced the bushings and the thing is 10x better. I don't remember the part number for the bushings, but the Toyota dealership had a hard time finding the pair of bushings in their computer.
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#8
Registered User
Moog makes a good idler arm. But, I'd just rebuild the original one. Wish I had, but now I have one that's greasable...the Moog. And lifetime warranty. For $126. Ouch.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
I ordered one from online for about 90$ and a year warranty. I may get the downey gusset eventually but as I am not offroading until spring im not worried. want to get my alignment sorted.
#10
Contributing Member
I'm a bit of an idler arm specialist after snapping one, destroying a dozen or so stock-type plastic bushings and finally having to heavily mod/redesign my stock idler arm to hold up under extreme use. My recommendation would also be to rebuild your existing one using bushings of the HIGHEST quality. The high performance manganese bronze bushings found on CustomMachiningUSA.com will fit your application if your idler arm is stock. The kit includes a drill & tap, a zerk fitting, and both bushings.I've been using those bushings for awhile, and they are AWESOME! Withstanding the worst I can throw at them without the least bit of noticeable wear. FAR more strength/durability than the plastic bushings found in most idler arms(at least the ones that DON'T cost $300 and use roller bearings, i.e. TC idler arm).
#11
Contributing Member
MudHippy, I've been following your thread with those brass bushings.
I will bump for those, IF people are trashing bushings. I've trashed the bushings a couple times.
I'll be going Total Chaos since I also bend the arms. Nothing the bushings can help with there. The Downey brace helps some, but not enough.
As for weak, OEM is weak. I'd trust the Chinese knockoffs even less.
Good luck!
I will bump for those, IF people are trashing bushings. I've trashed the bushings a couple times.
I'll be going Total Chaos since I also bend the arms. Nothing the bushings can help with there. The Downey brace helps some, but not enough.
As for weak, OEM is weak. I'd trust the Chinese knockoffs even less.
Good luck!
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#15
Right on!
I'll be updating my thread on it with some additional info right after this.
Of note, I've done some research on what years those fit.
So far I'm fairly certain they fit ALL 4wd 89-95 Pickups & 4Runners with stock idler arms, directly replacing part #90386-19005. That's why my 88 tried rejecting them. That'll show her...
I have NO IDEA which, if any, aftermarket idler arms they might fit if anyone is wondering, sorry.
And yes, as AxleIke mentioned, bending the arm is not preventable by using these bushings. Whether used in conjuction with an idler arm truss or not(I've bent my arm with both installed). I am however working on designing a truss that could cure that problem. Time will tell.
I'll be updating my thread on it with some additional info right after this.
Of note, I've done some research on what years those fit.
So far I'm fairly certain they fit ALL 4wd 89-95 Pickups & 4Runners with stock idler arms, directly replacing part #90386-19005. That's why my 88 tried rejecting them. That'll show her...
I have NO IDEA which, if any, aftermarket idler arms they might fit if anyone is wondering, sorry.
And yes, as AxleIke mentioned, bending the arm is not preventable by using these bushings. Whether used in conjuction with an idler arm truss or not(I've bent my arm with both installed). I am however working on designing a truss that could cure that problem. Time will tell.
Last edited by MudHippy; 12-19-2007 at 05:25 PM.
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#20
I tried getting an alignment at bruneel and they told me the idler arm was bad. They wanted something like 126 for the part and 140 in labor, for a total of $260.
The idler arm is very easy to replace, though you will want to rent a puller at schucks. I ordered one (from schucks.com) for $40. New bushings from shucks cost $1.40 or something, so that is also a good way to go. My new idler arm looks EXACTLY like that one on ebay.
When I got the old arm off it seemed fine though, I hope something isn't horribly wrong with my truck.
The idler arm is very easy to replace, though you will want to rent a puller at schucks. I ordered one (from schucks.com) for $40. New bushings from shucks cost $1.40 or something, so that is also a good way to go. My new idler arm looks EXACTLY like that one on ebay.
When I got the old arm off it seemed fine though, I hope something isn't horribly wrong with my truck.