RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

How does the EGR affect idle? Does the system reroute more or less waste gas at different throttle positions and/or engine speeds?

Can anyone enlighten us as to a good way to clean the valve? I know new ones are 'spensive but I wouldn't want to risk damaging the old one.

874runnersr5

Spray it with some brake cleaner and get one of those brushs that plumbers use to clean out the copper tubing. OR

remove it if you dont have emmisions.
all i know now, is that at warm. my truck sounds way way smoother without my egr..

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

So you can just blast strong solvents down in it? No worries about damaging anything inside?

I would worry about higher combustion temps since the EGR cools things down. Let us know if your mileage improves though!

thedanned

I wouldnt think you could damage an EGR by spraying solvents in it, or with careful use of a wire brush.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

So my throttle sticking issue returned. I'm going to look into it again and see if the cold weather necessitates another adjustment of the throttle stop screw or if the screw changed positions.

The interesting thing is that the problem is always solved by stopping and starting the engine, or *almost* stalling it. Driving around, the idle will sometimes stay at around 2000 like shifting between gears but if I slow down in gear and push in the clutch when it's gotten near idle it will stay there or do a little surging from 1000 to 1400. If I kill the engine and start it again the idle is steady somewhere between 700 and 1000.

Does this still sound like a sticking throttle plate? Would the change in vacuum from killing the engine cause it to close all the way?

874runnersr5

Well, its been fine for a week. im still on the same tank of gas, which is good because ussualy i would have had to refil by now..

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Well i've been seeing a lot of questions regarding the 22re and idle power issues so i felt as though this thread should be bumped to the new thread section for all to review. I figured since a lot of users use the new posts section to surf this site (including myself) It would be a good idea to bump it to the top.

ramrugby09

I have owened my 86 4runner with auto tranny for 7 years and i dont think it has ever idled properly. I finally have had enough and have tried to fix it but to no avail. I have done plugs, rotor, cap, 8mm wires, cleaned the air filter, intake plenum removal and total cleaning (which by the way was really nasty) pcv, intake plenum gasket, clean throttle body, set tps with 4crawlers specs, valve adjustment, coolant flush, erg removal w/ lce plates, oh and replaced the idle air control valve. And i still have an intermittent stumble or "miss" and erratic idle. Sometimes it idles perfectly and sometimes its low and causes a vibration when i stop at a light or stop sign. When slowly increasing idle by hand just off idle it will stumble or miss as well...? An ideas? I'm going to replace the exhaust manifold gasket today but I don't even know if that can or will help. Also when the engine and transmission are cold in the morning the truck will seem fine but when driving just when you feel like the transmission should shift i get a vibration and the tranny wont shift. I'll give it some more gas and it with shift and the vibration or bog even will go away.Once the engine is at operation temp it goes away. But recently i have felt this slightly when when the motor is warm.... I am not sure where to go from here? Any ideas would be great.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

my next step would be the AFM. Check on 4crawler's site to get the specs. Next check your intake tube for cracks. Check timing. o2 sensor (might not be the problem but doesn't hurt)

ramrugby09

sounds like a plan, I did replace the exhaust manifold gasket today and it seemed to help some but ... we will see when I drive to work in the morning. I will let yall know my final out come!

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for kind of dropping the ball on this thread... Once I got my sticking throttle issue taken care of I started thinking about other 4Runner things!

I am planning an EGR overhaul and will report what I find out and if it helps the idle at all. My guess is that the system is working less than optimally right now as it hasn't had any attention since 1988.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Well after taking the truck out wheeling in the new spring sun i found the truck wasn't running right.
To start i've been loosing a small amount of coolant over the past few months and when it was low the truck would buck and sputter throughout the rpm range. No power no throttle response. You get the picture. To add to things to check before replacing parts i figured i would share this tid bit of info with y'all. If your coolant is low and leaking your 22re will run like pooh! First and foremost the cooling system is under pressure when functioning properly so the slightest pin hole leak can cause issues as you can see. It will create air pockets in your system and possibly over heat your rig.
So here are the solutions and "hurdles" if you will i jumped to get my truck running right. First i flushed the system, replaced the t-stat, radiator cap, and found my leak. On a side note. it was pivital that i used the coolant system pressure tester to find the leak otherwise i would have never found it. I'm pretty sure our system (22re) is rated for 20psi so i never gave it much more than that when using the tester. It worked great and after finding the leak i replaced the faulty hose. So no leaks, proper pressure we're good right? Nope not so fast the truck was still over heating when in traffic. And on the subject of flushing and installing these items do some research if you haven't already on how to bleed the coolant system. If you don't do it properly air pockets will rear their ugly head and your rig will run crappy.
So on to the over heating issue. My first thought was not enough air through the radiator and i researched for electric fans and aftermarket fans as well. I gave a friend of mine a call since he's my toyota guru. His words to me, just get the fan clutch and be done with it. 80.00 bucks later and a quick install later and the 22re runs great again. I can sit in traffic or wheel the snot out of it and my motor runs cool at 210 deg.
short summary, If the 22re in particular is running poorly another system to check is that of the cooling system. Good luck my friends and stay thirsty!

MNyota

I have a 2000 SR5 with a V-6. When I start it cold, it idles very high for quite a while (1500+) and then finally settles down to around 500 or so. But, then it starts surging from 500-700 roughly. This goes on for quite a while until the engine is fully warmed up. Then it idles just fine.

Any ideas? Could it be the MAF, IAC, TPS, Engine Temp Sensor? Should I clean the throttle body, change plugsplugs, use seafoam, etc?

Where would you start? What would you do next?

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

sounds like an air bubble in your coolant system. read the above post.

rlordjr

Great thread. I have a few things to add and a few questions to ask. My truck is a 95 auto with the V6. Currently idling high and slower off the line than even a 3.slow should be. Runs smoothly, just really slow and high idle. Suspect air is sneaking in somewheres.

rlordjr

New things in past few weeks: VC gaskets, cam plugs sealed, TPS, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. timing was WAY off and some numbnuts had knocked the #1 fuel injector plug off when doing said VC gasket. Had shop set timing and THEY found the unplugged injector but called before pulling plenum. Nursed it home and fixed that meself (seeing as how I broke it).

But still I have a high idle. Smooth, but high. Does TPS adjustment have big effect on idle? Since it goes from <2.3k ohms to infinity in the space of a few tenths of a millimeter on the IDL-E2 contacts it seems like more of an on/off switch.

I still think extra air is my problem and did find a small crack in the intake hose at the TB. But I mean small. I'm thinking air getting in after the throttle plate.

BTW, simple test for EGR valve. Pull a vacuum on the hose coming out the top that goes to the vacuum regulator (hint, use mouth and a piece of longish hose). When you suck on it you may hear it open and the idling engine stumbles and may quit. When you release the vacuum you'll definitely hear it pop close and engine runs better. That valve is only open when vacuum present and the engine has to be running pretty good to open it.

Mountain Cop

It doesn't take much of a hole to make a big difference. Any extra o2 that is added after the AFM will have an effect.

Yotafisher

This is a great thread, I just bought a 1986 Toyota 4x4 with the 22RE, and it likes to surge at idle, from about 1100 then drops to @ 300-500 and sometimes dies. This is very frustrating when slowing down or turning at intersections. It does not do it all the time, mostly when the engine is cold, but sometimes does it with the engine fully warmed up. I will start checking the things mentioned here in this thread, love this site already.

Yotafisher

Thanks again for the great info guys! I slowed the idle down from 1100 to 800 and now it gives me no trouble.

Inu

95 4runner. 4wd, 3.0, auto. Victorville CA

history...... bought at an auction(just dont if you cant drive em). has 160k rebuilt entire engine. new pistons, new heads(previouse had been done several times and were cracked...), ect

has about 150 miles now, passed smog flying colours.

the problem. cold start it idles low and hunts from 500-1000 rpms(notso much now that its 100 outside) , when it warms up it idles between 1100 and 600 randomly. and every once in a while (3 times since rebuild) it will idle at 200 rpms smooth as a baby's butt(not kidding).

i just checked the dash pot. its not sticking open(actually closed) and the big idle screw is all the way in and the butterfly is shut completly(setscrew off stop). sprayed carb clean around and nothin. im not 100% but im pretty shure the vacume lines are hooked up correctly.

any ideas? any help would be loved as this is now my DD and i do have a 19ft jetboat i'd like to be able to pull Needles hill with

i would say the things horrifically anemic but i guess thats par for the course with these.. barley accelerates to 35 with ac on

thnx for any help and advice.

oh yea. and thank you for the full service manual, chiltons suck

Edit Aug 24: i think ive fixed most of the complaints i had,....... somewhere between the install and messing with the intake the timing was never set. it was 8-10 degrees down.

moral. check the cheap stuff.

still not a powerhouse but i saw 40 mph on the hill leaving my house for the first time in it