IF you're going to go with a suspension lift, I recommend ProComp Stage II and getting 4-5" lift springs for the rear instead of blocks. The Stage II has reinforcments that run from the lower control arm mounts up to the frame / trans crossmember to keep the front from bending backwards on harder impacts. You'll net about 4" lift without changing alignment angles, etc. like BJ spacers will do. I don't recommend BJ spacers for anything but increasing front wheel travel since they do not keep the tire from travelling upwards any farther than stock so a hard bump with oversized tires can stuff the tire into the fender.
Keep an eye on Craigslist and other sites and you may find a deal on the lift. Bought mine for 400 dollars.
If the 4" lift doesn't get you there, than a mild 1-2" body lift should get you the rest.

 

i can fit 33s easy with a 3 inch body lift

 

Gary that looks awesome. I would be happy to clear 33's. IFS kinda sucks. I have it on my Ram too. Time to look for some parts. Would a 2wd box and fenders give you some extra clearance?

 

would bj spacers effect the geometry if i lowered the differential?

- thats a sweet picture.. i right now have 32x11.5 and theres enough room in there to easily fit 33s without rubbing on anything but the front mudflaps... heck, i could prob get away with 35s with just a body lift, but i wanna do this right

 

a 2WD box and fenders would not give you more clearance. The 4WD boxes have the flares and a larger tire when flexing can fit up in the wheel well, while with a 2WD box a tire with any width or a rim with any offset will hit the lip of the fender when flexing. I had this problem with my old 4WD with a box from a 2WD on it. Its fine with stock rims and tires less that 12 inchs wide

 

My 1990 4Runner is lowered 1" from the factory height, and I'm running 35's with no rubbing at all. It's all in the offset of the wheels, and massaging the pinch weld in the front.

 

Yes, they will affect steering geometry. Lowering the differential only affects the differential, not any of the control arm mounting points.

 

35's with no lift at all, just cutting and pounding

 

<sigh>

35's w/4" Procomp Stage II(already mentioned, by far the best), no body lift...

Looks great on the street/strip, fully functional offroad.

 

TADA! 35's, and lowered 1".

 

Ill tell ya or should I say show you what you DONT need



^^^^^^^^^

 

I would totally wheel that...

 

that thing couldnt drive over a curb without breakin somthing

 

eh, makes it a breeze to change the oil! lol!!


Hey turbo!!! I wasn't sure if you saw this on your rig, but I notice theres a smidge of rust right there on the pass fender. Kinda hard to see, but it's there...might need to get to that JUST in case 'cause it could spread...I'm just sayin...

 

I got a 90 toyota with a 4" pro comp suspension lift and a 3" body lift and hd torsion bars and it makes 35's look small

 

I don't see it, could you please circle it?

 

Here are my two 4runners both on 35's both with different suspension set ups

This one is a SAS 4" front 5" rear swap 15" rims and 3.75 back spacing on the rims 22re 5 speed


This one is ifs with a Pro Comp Stage II lift kit and 15" rims with 3.75 back spacing on the rims to clear the A arms trimming on the pinch welds 3.0 v6 5 speed


Either way you are going to need more then just a lift kit you are going to need at least 5.29's or 5.71's for gearing so you're looking at a lot of time and money to do it correctly, if you just want to be a poser then your 4.10's stock will work but do not expect to go up any hills very well or expect any kind of good fuel mileage out of your set up.

Your best bet is to run it stock with 32's until you got the time and money to do the 35's plus you will go a lot of places with the set up you have now if you put a locker in the rear for a whole lot less the 35's just my .02

 

Those 4runners look awesome. Do all pickups come with 4.10's? The one I'm getting has a 3.0l 5 speed.

 

Not to start a pissing contest or a what's better debate, just to keep your cost comparison more accurate;

Depending on the year Wrangler and your driving style you may not need to replace the D30. If you're planning to keep the stock IFS on the 'yota I'm going to guess that the D30 will be fine, especially if you're talking about a TJ. If you're talking about a YJ then your lift plan is good, if it's a TJ you can probably get away with a 3inch SL and a 1inch BL. If you stay at or under 3inches of SL then you shouldn't need an SYE or new drive shafts. If your plan is a TJ then you should look for one with a D44 rear, or plan on upgrading or replacing the D35.

 

Yo skiier:
I got 4" of skyjacker bracket lift and I have enough room to clear 35s. The procomp stage II that abecedarian has does have those reinforcement struts which makes sense to me but I havent had any problems with my kit either. Keep in mind though that the 35s are gonna make your truck a bit of a dog, especially if youre tyring to merge onto 495 when theres some traffic. I have 33s now, and my performance is still acceptable, and the truck looks pretty BA (in my opinion anyway). Why not go 33s?