If you're only burning 2 qts/2500 miles that's nothing. That's 1 qt. every 1250 miles which is considered normal useage. If I were you I'd run 10W40 Dino oil and just stay on top of the oil level. Check your oil at every fill up and you should be fine. I wouldn't run 20W50 right now, it's too cold in Chicago, but in the summer on your trip 20W50 might be a good idea.

 

The rental car idea is good, but it won't work for us. We are way under 25, lol, and it would cost an additional $400 to our projected costs. Plus It would be a ford Explorer and I don't trust those. I'm pretty sure the valve rings are the culprit, or maybe not because it does leak oil though I'm not sure how much.

EDIT!: WAIT A MINUTE, the oil pump seal! I notice a spot about the size on two quarters wherever I park overnight. I already look all over the engine and could not find the culprit until I looked at the oil pump. Bingo, lots of dirty oil all around, some looked newer too. Once I get off work and get it into the garage I'll take a pic. The reason I believe I don't burn oil is because the exhaust never shows that, it never has a blue tint, and it doesn't smell like it either. On our Celica whenever you start it you can smell, and see the burned oil. When ever I open the hood I can smell a little oil, but that might be because the oil pump seal is bad and since it is next to a hot engine block, might cause some of it to burn a little.

 

Your real problem is you not checking the oil on a weekly basis. 2 qts in 2500 miles is not abnormal. Not checking your oil weekly on an old motor is abnormal and irresponsible.

I would change to a 20-50 oil for the time being. The higher viscosity will help control the oil usage slightly. I would quit using Mobile 1 due to your financial situation. Dyno is fine and that is what arrived from the factory.

You may have wear, sticking rings or old valve guide seals. Or, you may simply have a clogged PVC valve. I would change that first and see how the consumption goes from there. You do not need an engine rebuild.

I suggest you pour a half quart of diesel fuel into the oil right before a scheduled oil change with the engine hot. Let it idle for 30 minutes and immediately drain the oil overnight. This will eventually dissolve carbon and sludge on the oil control rings. Do this for the next 4 oil changes. You should see a small improvement in oil consumption and possibly better power and mileage. You can not imagine how many old engines I have seen with stuck piston rings.

My $0.02 and no charge for this advice

 

If you can't replace the seal right away, just run some cheap dino oil. I doubt if heavier oil will slow the consumption/leak. Check Bobistheoilguy.com for deals on oil in your area, or just use Walmart's cheapest. You can drive it indefinitely that way.

Keep a few quarts in the truck and check it everytime you get gas.

Good luck to you and your family. College is a once in a lifetime opportunity, make the most of it.

 

Are you SURE that you are burning oil? Have you done an in depth check of the engine underneath to ensure you're not leaking oil?

Have a look at the valve cover seals (so below the valve covers - look under the hood for this one), as well as underneath the engine. You could have a leaky rear main seal, or engine oil cooler seals, or other....I used to think I was burning a quart to a quart and a half between oil changes but it turns out after actually being under the truck one day that I was leaking it. I got the rear main, valve cover seals, & oil cooler seals done and it no longer leaks a drop. Now I know I am positively burning about 0.5 quarts of oil between changes but burning a small amount of oil is normal in a healthy engine, and especially considring the mileage I have on mine.

 

Thats the thing, I don't think I am, I think I am NOT burning it.


Edit: I just realized I originally said the opposite of what I intended to say. Fixed.

 

well dude i think the best thing to do is start using thiker oil...go for the 20w50...and u might wana try a lucas oil stabaliser but that lucas oil dosnt last...it thins out after a wile...

 

You don't think you are, or you KNOW you aren't?

Synthetic oil is notorious for clinging to metal surfaces well - it's one of it's beneficial properties. It adheres to cylinder walls and other metal parts inside your engine which will reduce wear on cold start ups. Well this factor also worked against me when I figured I was burning all the oil I lost until I finally climbed under the truck and started looking around one Summer day. I then realized that the no sign of oil in the car port on the concrete and the fact there was this built up oil gunk around my valve covers, and some oil adhering to my transmission right around the junction with the transmission, and around the oil pan suggested that this stuff does a hell of a job of clinging to metal surfaces (something I heard about synthetic oil as well when I first started learning more about it) and that I wasn't burning it. I could have left it - I wasn't loosing a ton of oil, but part of me just hates knowing it is leaking/loosing oil, I didn't want it to get worse, and I also wanted to see how my rings are - which can only be done if you elminate oil leaks. Now I know that the oil my engine is consuming, which is very small and regular from the few people I've talked to, especially considering the high mileage of my engine, is being burned and not leaking.

The fact is seals don't last forever, and anyone with a reasonably high mileage 3vze that doesn't have something leaking is either lying or probably has a horseshoe up their arse. The valve covers do leak overtime just from the gaskets getting old, expansion/contraction, etc. They are known to leak - not a bad thing, just a sign they need to be replaced/addressed. The rear main seal leaking a bit after high K isn't unheard of. So don't be surprised if your oil loss is attributed to a leak, but you won't know until you get under your rig with a flashlight and inspect the undercarriage underneath your engine.

First check for leaks....then, I wouldn't waste my time with oil stabilizers, leak stops, or any of that crap. Maybe running a good solvent in your engine for 10-20 minutes of idling (not running or driving) right before an oil change to clean things out and get a fresh start (something like maybe sea foam, or Amsoil has an engine/crankcase solvent that is supposed to be pretty good). Then start with a fresh batch of a high mileage oil and a high quality filter. Mobil 1 synthetic 10w30 high mileage (they do have a special high mileage version of their regular synthetic 10w30 oil found here: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ge_10W-30.aspx ) Keep in mind that synthetic oils, like Mobil and especially Amsoil, are much better at resisting burn off than conventional oils. But if you are leaking oil, because these synthetic oils are so clean, they might not build up the desireable level of "gunk" to help seal rear mains, valve covers, etc. This is where you might want to go to a conventional oil (if you are more on the side of leaking, etc.) until you fix the leaks or rebuild or swap in another engine.

 

I wouldn't go with 20w50. Thicker oil ain't a bad recommendation but 20w50 is a bit much for this engine when you consider the importance of lubricating your upper valve train which is more difficult to do with a much thicker oil like 20w50. I'd look at that Mobil 10w30 high mileage which is supposed to be on the thicker side of the viscosity or even consider going half 10w30 and half 10w40 to thicken it up but try and stick with the same brand of oil if you do something like that. Also Amsoil 10w30 is on the thicker side of it's viscosity as well and is supposed to be the best oil for resisting burn off.
But again - CHECK FOR LEAKS FIRST. I would be surprised if you were burning that much oil in 2500 miles. You would certainly have a solid puff of blue at start up every morning at the least. Maybe also get someone to start your rig cold in the morning and look for this puff.

 

I just want to comment on the 2 quarts every 2500 miles.

Thats not catastrophic nore is it something anyone should freak out about and NORE does it mean you have to immediately go rebuild your motor.

Thats about what i go through on average and you wont see blue smoke. BLUE smoke is a MUCH better indication of things arent so good inside the motor. If your just going through oil and not seeing it out the exhaust i wouldn't worry.. at all.

Typically as the engines age the piston rings allow more oil past during normal engine operation and the valve guide seals do the same.

And since you have a 3.0 im even less concerned since you have 2 more piston rings and 4 more valves than a 22r.

I'd be more concerned w/ the HG than the engine burning oil.

 

Well HG recall was done in '98 so thats good.

Plan on changing the wires (NGK), spark plugs (NGK Iridium IX), air filter (OEM), oil to Mobil1 High Mileage, adding seafoam to the crankcase 100 miles before the oil change, o2 sensor. That sound about eight for a tune up?

 

Like a few others have said, your oil usage isn't that bad. If the motor sounds and runs good then don't worry about it.

I'd suggest running 15w40 which is a diesel oil, I've found thru lots of experience that it usually cuts oil burning by 50%.

You also need to change your oil and filter every 2500-3000mi. The reason your oil is "black" is because of the increased amount of combustion gases and unburned fuel getting past the worn rings. Your engine will "break down" it's oil much faster than a fresh engine.

Check your oil every 2nd fill up, pack a few quarts in the back and go on your 6500mi road trip.

 

How does it do that?

 

in my datsun wagon, w/known bad rings, i used Bardahls "no smoke/leak" and it worked great. enough that the first time i drove it within 5 miles i could feel the power return to normal. followup compression check verified
was a good band-aid until i could replace the motor

 

As said before, you should have changed the oil immediately. Then change it every 3K miles. I would also do an engine flush with something like this.http://www.thebestoil.com/aef.asp

 

Originally Posted by motoriderbc
I'd suggest running 15w40 which is a diesel oil, I've found thru lots of experience that it usually cuts oil burning by 50%.

How does it do that?

Diesel oil has a heavier additive package, whether it will reduce oil consumption, some times it does, what have you got to lose?

 

Your should be changing your oil about every 3500 or so anyway.

 

Well I'm pretty sure it is the rear main seal. There is absolutely NO puff of smoke. The only smoke is the by product of combustion, which turns to vapor in the winter because of the temp. I might be running a little bit rich, but not much. I'm pretty sure it is the rear main because it leaks right where, well the rear main would be. I have checked all the other fluids and they are all normal. I plan on bringing it in to Toyota soon to have an inspection done.

Since I'm going to change the oil soon because I added all that additive crap, I added 8 oz of Seafoam to the crankcase, and 2 cans in the tank. Already noticed a difference in pickup. And by the looks of things I increased my MPG by 2 so far.

IMO I'm going to go with Mobil1 Synthetic High Mileage 15W-30. Right before I change it, I would like to do Seafoam through the vacuum line, then drain the oil and check it out, just feeling/looking for noticeable things like chunks of sludge. Any other suggestions? Plan on doing it this weekend, but need to stay cheap.

Run Seafoam through vacuum line (How much and how long?)
Throttle body? maybe?
Drain oil, inspect it
Fill up new oil
Check T-Case and front diff. Was on lifts when I changed them, along with the CV, so just to be sure.
Fuel filter
PVC valve

The last two I might need guidance on. To search I go.

Comments appreciated!

 

why remove some of the stuff that is sealing the crankcase? Sometimes its best to let sleeping dogs lie. Feed it oil and just let it do its own thing. Also, use a low cost dino oil and a good quality but low cost filter. Since you are using or leaking oil, why use a high cost and a thinner oil? Just some thoughts.

 

Little update. Bought 6 quarts of Mobil1 10W-30 along with a Mobil1 Filter and Bar's Leak Repair. Figured I'd give it a try and I've heard some good results.

It looks like the leak from a few possible places. Either the Oil Pump seal, rear main, or the valve cover. Any idea on how hard and what you would do after you remove the valve cover to replace the seal?

Since I have a dance to go to I won't be doing any maintenance today. Hopefully Sunday I'll wake up early and do some.

The plan:
-Replace oil & filter
-Check the diffs. and T-case levels
-Change fuel filter
-Change PVC valve (Need help!)
-Pound out skid plate
-Clean oil off block (How?)
-Tighten Valve Cover bolts
-Check spark plugs

Some maybe's:
-ISR mod
-Valve cover seal