the two prongs on the right make contact when your flapper door opens. they turn your fuel pump on. that looks like your problem.

 

That's what I was thinking LD. I wonder if there is some kind of epoxy I could use to hold that piece together until I can get to a yard to find a replacement. As it is, I don't get off work until 8:30 pm so I won't have a chance to look for a few weeks. Luckily the truck isn't my daily driver

 

Another image for any one not knowing what I am talking about

This is not my picture I found it on the net but it relates what I am needing to replace

 

so . . . you basically need the entire Vane Airflow Meter (that piece shouldn't have pulled out)

 

I hope not but it's possible. I called the only import yard in town and they didn't have any pickups or 4runners. I will be calling a couple other yards tomorrow to see if they have any and how much they want for it.

 

well, if you're good, you might be able to solder things back together and save yourself some $

 

I'm actually going to try this out tonight. I figure that it's already broke and if I can't fix it then I will have to buy a new part any way. I'll keep you all updated.

 

if it is the entire AFM cant you do the supra AFM mod? help out with a little power wile ur at it,

 

I've been reading up on that just in case the solder trick doesn't work. I'll have to start calling around for an AFM from an '82 supra right?

 

I would not go into that at all. I would highly recommend "OEM"!!!!!! for all your parts needs. Plus it will be easier to find an Air box for a 85-95 22re than a supra one trust me.

 

I've had a tough time finding one for either the truck or a Supra so far. I'll be testing out my soldered/re-engineered connector tonight.

 

why not? its a strictly PLUG AND PLAY mod nothing to it? and ive heard nothing but good things about it

 

GO OEM!!!! TOYOTA MOTOR CORP. knows more about that truck than anybody in the world they made it the way it is for a reason. They are diff for a reason by toyotas good grace. OEM!!!!

 

Alright... well my little soldering trick worked. The prong on the right makes contact like it's supposed to now and the truck starts and runs. Now it's idling funny and has white smoke coming out the tail pipe that smells like gas. I think it has to do with the fuel that was getting pumped in as I was testing the connection on my solder. I took it out for a drive and it acted like it bogging down. I kept getting on the gas though and eventually it got a little better, but it's still acting up.

I think I need to get a tach and set the idle because I'm sure I messed it up. I'm also throwing a code but I need to find my paper clip to jump the diagnostic. I'll post up what I find

 

Alright only throwing one code.

Code 2 MANIFOLD AND/OR AIRFLOW METER SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT

--AIRFLOW METER/CIRCUIT

--MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR/CIRCUIT

--ECU

hmm that sucks...

 

Well that might be a problem.... from 88 up, the 22re codes should all be two digit codes.... sure it wasn't 22?

 

It's possible it's 22 and not 2 since 88+ are two digit codes . It was two quick flashes, about a second pause then 2 quick flashes, which repeated until I shut it off.

WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL--OPEN OR SHORT IN WATER TEMP. SENSOR SIGNAL

--WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT

--WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR

--ECU

I'll do some research on this today, but I won't be able to look at the truck again until tonight after work.

 

Check coolant temp sensor

 

Well came home and double checked connections. Made sure the ECT was nice and tight and no bare wires, double checked to make sure my AFM connection was plugged in nice and tight, double checked all hoses. Then pulled the negative cable on the battery to hopefully reset any codes. Came back after 15 minutes and plugged it back in and now I am getting several codes. Codes 22, 24, 31, 41, 51. Guess I am at a loss until I can get my hands on a multimeter.

 

Alright I went and bought a multimeter and I tested the AFM, TPS, cold start injector and engine coolant temperature sensor.

Cold Start injector tested out at 80 ohms at STA - STJ terminals.

TPS
VTA - E2 = 800
IDL - E2 = .02
Vcc - E2 = 6.6

ECT measure out 2 ohms

AFM
E2 - Vs = 170
E2 - Vc = 180
E2 - Vb = 460
E2 - Tha = 1800
E1 - Fc went to infinite
E2 - Vs = 20 fully closed

As far as I can tell, everything seems within range except the E2 - Vb on the AFM at 460. Normal range according to the FSM is 200 - 400. I'm wondering if indeed the AFM is shot if it's throwing the other codes as well. Another thing I am thinking is rubber boot on the connector wires that plug in to the AFM was in pretty bad shape but not totally torn off. I taped this up to keep the wires inside the boot protected but I'm wondering if I have some bare wires in there shorting each other out. Any one think this could be a problem. I'll have to check the wires later, but the boot had a rip in it and it is hard to see inside of there.

Thanks again everyone.