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hydro locked 22re

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Old 06-25-2007, 08:12 PM
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hydro locked 22re

Hey all, this past weekend I went through what looked like a small puddle and sucked in a bunch of water into my intake. It started back up, but now it knocks a little. I am afraid that the motor will go soon and I am thinking about replacement swaps. I have a 1987 4runner with the 22re. I was told that any motor from 85 to 95 would bolt in. What year would be the best? or is there an entire different motor that would be better? Thanks
Old 06-25-2007, 08:13 PM
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Any 22RE will work really, but best to get about the same year just incase.

Next time when it shuts off, tow it out, remove all plugs and crank. Then change oil alot after to make sure.
Old 06-25-2007, 08:23 PM
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Motors are all about the same.
No perf advantages of any, assuming you keep electronics and plenum with your truck.
Old 06-26-2007, 04:31 AM
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Thanks CJM, that is good advice. What can I do to test a used motor to make sure that it is good?
Old 06-26-2007, 02:52 PM
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Can anyone make a guess as to long my engine might last considering it sucked in water and makes a little knocking noise. It has 180,000 miles on it right now as it is.
Old 06-27-2007, 03:11 AM
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I found this for sale 3.0L 7M-GE straight six engine. Will it bolt in place?
Old 06-27-2007, 04:17 AM
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My son hydro'ed his 85 22RE. It knocked for about 3 weeks before it threw the rod.
Old 06-27-2007, 04:44 AM
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yep its probly a bent rod or so
Old 06-27-2007, 06:32 AM
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The first time he hydro'ed it (Yep, its happened twice) we changed the set of rods.
Old 06-28-2007, 09:27 PM
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Question for Yoda

I am obviously new to the Toyota scene. Would it make more sense to find a donor engine or tear into the motor and replace the connecting rod? Yoda, I have a question for you. How bad was the knock in your sons engine? Mine is not noticeable at idle. Only when I put a load on the engine when I am driving is it apparent. The knock seems go away after the engine is completely warmed up. Right now I am fixing the problem by turning up my radio and blasting the music.
Old 06-28-2007, 09:32 PM
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DId you change the oil after this happened? Since I assume you didnt pull the plugs and let the water fire out, this might be your next best bet to getting a little more life out of the engine.
Old 06-28-2007, 09:55 PM
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Yeah, what happened was a bunch of people where around when it happened and the guy that winched me out of the water hole said just to open up the air box and crank her until she starts. I wish I knew ahead of time to take the plugs out, but this was my first time getting stuck in water. Right away when I got home I changed the oil and it looked fine. No milky color, just normal looking oil. Oh and when it finally did start it billowed thick clouds of white smoke.
Old 06-28-2007, 10:18 PM
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I had this happen to me with my 87 Nissan Pickup when I was 17 (young and dumb), and I didn't know any better, so I just sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body and got it going. After that, my truck burned massive amounts of oil. Just chalk it up as a lesson learned for next time. In my case, the valve seals went bad. You should feel lucky that you didn't damage any electrical components, ie. altenator, etc.

As far as replacing the engine goes, try to find one that is as close to your year as possible, although any year will work. When I replaced the 22r in my 87, I ended up putting one in out of an 83, and there were some small differences. There were a few vacuum lines that weren't applicable for my truck, and I had to swap the altenator bracket from my old engine.
Old 06-29-2007, 04:29 AM
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The first time, we heard no knock. It had blown the headgasket. But I saw #4 would only come up to 1/4" from top dead center. #3 was 1/8 inch, #1 & #2 OK.

Second time could hear the knock at idle, was loud at RPM. We bought a used engine that had been recently rebuilt (had the stickers and heat tabs on it)
Old 06-29-2007, 04:48 AM
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[QUOTE=Yoda;50562396]The first time, we heard no knock. It had blown the headgasket. But I saw #4 would only come up to 1/4" from top dead center. #3 was 1/8 inch, #1 & #2 OK.

How where you able to see how high the pistons would come up? Did you have the head off at that time?
Old 06-29-2007, 05:16 AM
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Yo,

If it bent a rod, or two, can you imagine what it did to the soft rod bearing?
A bent rod will induce vibration. A damaged bearing will knock. You probably have less than a month before it will let go. If you want to save the motor, quit driving it now..

Old 06-30-2007, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SEAIRESCUE
Yo,

If it bent a rod, or two, can you imagine what it did to the soft rod bearing?
A bent rod will induce vibration. A damaged bearing will knock. You probably have less than a month before it will let go. If you want to save the motor, quit driving it now..

Would it be possible to drop the oil pan and put new crank bearings in it?
Old 11-07-2007, 07:04 PM
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You can replace the rod brgs. like that, but the crank has to come out of the trans. To get to the two trans. bolts be hind the head, you must take the head off... To take the head off, you might as well just pull the whole dingo thingo and rebuild!
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Old 11-07-2007, 08:43 PM
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Sweet, bring up them old threads lonestar. Were you bored?

You can do the rod and the main bearings in the vehicle with a 22r
Old 11-07-2007, 09:40 PM
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No! Not all 22re's are "created equal." One of my co-workers, who happens to be a Toyota technician for 35 years now, swapped in a '91 22re into an '88 pickup body, and it's not a straight swap. How about swapping the entire wiring harness, including all the interior wiring, while swapping the newer 22re into the older body style? Oh, that's with the exception of the taillight harness. Ha ha. I watched him do it too, it's not fun. It took him about a month to do.

So to make life easier, swap in a similar year motor.
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