What are the odds that the block in my 4Runner is no good? Is it pretty rare, or is it common that the block is warped and non-rebuildable? The previous owner either lost a headgasket or cracked/warped a head when the heater core hose behind the intake sprung a leak and went unnoticed until it was too late.

How strong is the bottom end on the 3.0? The problems I have seen have all been headgasket related...and I have yet to see any rods going through blocks, so I assume the bottom end is tough.

Thanks for the help.

Shawn

 

Never in my life full of V06 recalls have I ever seen a blown head gasket warp a block. The block is more likely to get cylinder wall damage from the lubrication erosion or get pits on the block deck from eletrolysis. I've gotten away with quite a bit of deck erosion on my non-warranty budget repairs though. The heads to warp/crack sometimes when overheated. I highly suggest paying to get the heads shaved, inspected for cracks, and hot tanked.

 

I will definitely have the heads check and milled if needed, as well as get a valve job while I've got them off.

I'm just trying to figure out if I need to pull the complete engine to make sure the block deck is true and clean.

I am considering pulling it anyway as it has a few leaks and it would probably be easier to just pull it out than to try to fix everything while it's in the truck.

The reason I asked about the block warping is because I talked to the dealer and they said they frequently replaced the complete engine, and not just the head/gaskets...he said due to warpage....which seemed odd to me.

Thanks for the reply.

SQ

 

Forgot to ask - Can the A/C system be 'set-aside' and not require a re-charge if done correctly, or do I need to disconnect it? I don't have it here to look at it, or else I would probably figure this out on my own.

Thanks
Shawn

 

No, your first problem is taht you talked to a dealer. The next problem is you talked to a service liar. I have never had a warped block in the 1.2x10^19 3VZs I've done. We frequently replace them because we know warranty will pay it and then I get to keep the old engine with a good crank that is easily rebuildable. The common reason for replacement is deck erosion or cylinder scoring.

 

the bigest problem with the block is the coolant gets in the oil and chews up the main bearings. but as mike said, there is virtually no way your going to warp a 3vze block.

as for coolant in the oil that just depends on were the HG failed....

 

Mike,

Thanks for the info...dealer/liar, I heard that!

So, if you frequently rebuild the 3.0, what is an average rebuild cost?

What is an average cost of headgasket replacement, with head re-working?

I am considering just doing that while I've got it out...

SQ

 

Yes, the compressor can be unbolted from the block and just left dangling or put up near the battery with a bungee cord depending on what you feel like. The loosening of those bolts can be a bit troublesome, but it is possible. Be sure to not tighten one of the four bolts that has the PS bracket attached to it. You'll want to reassemble the PS brackets and get all the bolts tightened before you tighten that last one on the compressor.

 

My engine definitely has coolant in the oil...and the previous owner said he took it to work and back one day after the problem, before he realized he needed a headgasket replacement. So, he drove it about 30-40miles. He said it didn't get hot anymore, but the coolant is definitely mixed with the oil and it's the typical milkshake consistency.

Should I go ahead and tear down the whole thing and re-do the bearings while I'm working on the heads? It seems like it...the truck will only see a few hundred miles of use each month, but they will all be on the beach, and a lot of 4wd (and hot temps).

thanks

SQ

 

There are only two things you need to know:

www.engnbldr.com to get all the 3VZ parts you'll need for the full meal deal.
and...
find a local machine shop that you either trust or can get good references for.

If you're asking how much it will out you out-of-pocket for a full rebuild with head work. Then, I'm going to ballpark you at $1200 if you do as much work as possible and let the experts do the machine work. That price was with a head resurface, crack inspection, valve grind and hot tank. Also, included was boring over and hot tanking the block. So, you pretty much do all the assembly work yourself. If you let the machine work do the assembly work, then the price only goes up from there.

 

If you love this truck, you will finish the job while you're in there.It is your choice. It very well may run for another 100k miles without a full short block overhaul. But, when you're in that far, it is hard to not go all the way when it is another $600.

 

im ready to drop my rebuild 3vze back in my 4runner. as ive said before

parts from engbuldr (gasket kit, rings, bearings, head bolts) ~300
valve job and .008 off the head ~350
misc parts and hoses ~300 (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, water pump, timming belt etc)
cleaned/serviced injectors ~$80

If your tool frugle youll need a good torque wrench. a engine hoist is a must, and a stand is nice. cheepy HF versions work just fine if you cant find a buddy that will lend you his. If you dont have such tools look at another $3-500 if you want to buy them.

(if you have an extra $500+ you can added headers and exauhst at the same time)

I have succesfully removed my motor and left the compressor in the truck full of freeze your ass off R-12.

 

Thanks for the info guys.

One more question:

When shaving the heads, you lower them down some, which would create a bit shorter belt. I haven't looked into the geometry of it, but I wouldn't think that .008" would cause the timing belt tensioner to max out, would it?

Also, any idea what the tolerances are on head milling? I would assume the machine shop should know, but you know what happens when you assume anything!

Looks like I'll be going for it...hopefully the tranny and t-case are good enough to make the project worthwhile

SQ

 

The maximum material removal tolerance, as specified by Toyota, is .010" total for all surfaces. There are 4 surfaces being tallied, 2 on the block and 2 on the heads. In reality, you can shave more than that. I do not know what the practical limit is, maybe someone that has pushed the limits can chime in here. Also, you can buy .020" thicker head gaskets and shave a whole lot more. I wouldn't worry about it. The heads are probably going to need very little material removed to bring them back flat, assuming they need any at all.

 

Thanks for the help again.

Now, what other parts should I check/replace while I've got the engine bare or removed? (not sure if I'll pull it yet or not..)

I'm planning on purchasing new HG's obviously, new head bolts, and all of the obvious sealants/gaskets/etc.

I was thinking of doing the rear main, maybe timing belt, etc..

May as well do it right!

SQ

 

Knock sensor and knock sensor pigtail. This is a common problem area on the 3VZs, especialy the 88-91s with the round connector. They would corrode and stop working after you disconnected and reconnected them. If there is any sign of corrosion, replace one or both parts as the corrosion dictates. If you put it all back together with a bad knock sensor, you'll be very disappointed with the performance, CEL, and hard work you'll have to do over to get back to the knock sensor.

 

The knock sensor was recently replaced, but I will definitely check it.

Is there a rebuild kit that anyone recommends? I want something with quality parts, not a cheap kit just to get it running.

Thanks
Shawn

 

I use engnbldr's master kit regularly. The only issue I've ever had in the 30 or so I've done is low oil pressure on one. Thankfully it was on one of my personal vehicles. I've never actaully figured out if it was bearing clearances from the crank machining or if the aftermarket oil pump was ĊĊĊĊty. Hard to tell since only one has given me a slight problem and it is not cause enough for a tear down. I've just been putting 10w40 in it and the oil pressure is great and my truck runs fine with pressure to spare. The gaskets he supplies are top notch, I've never had one blow a head gasket yet. If you don't want to chance it, buy the Toyota oil pump.

 

Thanks again for the info.

Last few questions for now - pull the engine seperate or pull the transmission with it?

Is the auto tranny behind the 3vze fairly reliable? Or should I go ahead and have some work done on it once I have the engine out?

I have a bad taste in my mouth about rebuilt transmissions. I've had a few rebuilt in my short vehicle owning life, and they never seem to work as well or last as long....so I'm hesitant and gun shy to even crack it open. I have heard that they are fairly reliable, but I personally have no experience with them. I feel comfortable rebuilding the engine, but wont touch the internals on an automatic tranny .

Thanks for the help. Hoping to start tearing into it this weekend if I can get it to my house from my work (don't want to drive it)

SQ

 

Do yourself a favor and leave the transmission in the truck. Don't even remove the torque converter. The quickest and least painful way to remove the engine is take the heads off as a pair with the exhaust manifolds and crossover still connected. Then, remove the short block.