Allright, obvioulsy no one is going to know exactly what kind of power I make, but I am curious about other's experience with a similar setup.

I have the 22re, manual says it makes 116 hp....

First, off how accurate is that?

Secondly, I have the following mods:

Thorley header
Hi flow cat
Flowmaster 40 series
2.25 piping
K&N FIPK
and Nology plug wires (for those of you who don't know.... www.nology.com)

I am sure that I have recieved some sort of gain, but no idea how much.
Is my poor 16 year old motor just tired and the mods bring it up to 116 hp again?

or is 116 pretty accurate and my mods have pumped me up to 121 hp....just curious.

Thanks -Seth

 

About that. Either one. At least you are realistic in what gains you've made, down through the years those numbers sound about right, but it isn't about the pure power anyway, it's the driveability improvements.

 

You're right about that. I have a strong running truck and I get decent mileage, and that is really what I did the mods for. I was just curious as a friend asked em wht my motor made and I have no idea.....torque...I haven't a clue either.

 

Wonderful examples of why "real world driveability" matters and the manufacturers' advertising department claims for max HP mean nothing:
Remember the Ram V6 in the Dakota? Used to be around 180 hp when the 3.0 was 150. Drag race them, tow something, or just drive around town and the difference was HUGE - the Dakota engine was a DAWG! Look at the specs - the peak horsepower was at like 7000 rpm - but more importantly it made NOTHING below that. Same with the Nissan V6 engine, past and present. Or check out the new 220 hp inline 5 cylinder from GM - I drove one on a 600 mile business trip - it is substantially slower than my aging 3.0. Why? No low end, no mid range. If it makes any of the rated 220 hp, it only makes it around the rated peak of 5600 rpm, but even then it didn't feel strong. The new Yota V6 (and all Yota engines I've ever driven) did not win the Ad Wars, but have ALWAYS felt good to drive because they make usable power at low and medium rpms. So beware of mods that make more horsepower but move the power and torque range upwards - it can actually cost you in fun-to-drive power. Keep it real...

 

Also the 116 hp is rated at the flywheel for motor specs, you would not make those numbers on a dyno due to drivetrain loss.

 

There's roughly a 20% loss from the flywheel to the wheels.

 

GM 5cyl --- 225lb/ft @ 2800rpm
Toyota 6cyl --- 180lb/ft @ 3400rpm

So what is it? GM horrendously overestimating their power output, or Toyota underestimating?

 

Both

You also have to look at the point of peak horsepower - torque by itself isn't worth much. Driveability tends to lie where the horspower and torque curves overlap on a graph. For the Toyota the horsepower and torque are in the usable range through a large portion of the rpm range, for the 5cyl there is little horsepower until high rpms - after the torque has fallen off. Looks great on paper but it sucks in the real world.

 

Pay $40-50 and go get your truck dyno'd.

 

I think that 2.25 is to much for your poor 4 banger. Id reccomend 2" piping.

 

we need some dyno charts of some toyota engines vs. other stuff. I know the 22re has good low end for its size, but between about 3-4k rpms it seems like theres less horses and torque. Any remidies for it?

 

When I upgraded my pipe(looked smaller than 2")to 2 1/4 and put on a header and flowmaster I noticed a huge difference in power,a 1 gear difference climbing hills.I gained quite a bit down low but the most is right in the middle of the power band.I still have the stock cat so I may keep that stock as I don't want to free it up too much.

 

Id like to get a header, they arent too expensive. not sure on what brand to buy, and ive got an itch to go turbo, but that seems finacially impossible. I am pretty sure that the stock pipeing is 2", from when i put on a exaust tip. how much was ur cat back?

 

I paid 160 for the headman header,good header but the mid pipe sucks.It was too short and wouldn't reach the cat so I had to weld more pipe to it.The o2 bung is welded on too high so the o2 sensor doesn't sit inside the pipe(looking in one side of the pipe,you cannot even see the sensor).It doesn't get a good reading and sets the cel while cruising and I have to give it gas to shut it off so I am buying a new header.The cat back was like 60 for the flowmaster and 100 for the pipe and install.

 

If this was an import car board those mods would equal 50hp.

 

so true!

I have bolted on everything (basic bolt-ons) you can imagine to every car I have ever owned. Even our Accord has intake and exhaust. Anyway, until I went to forced induction (first was a 88 Celica Turbo with about 12psi and now my now supercharged 4Runner) I had never realized what I was truly missing. Sure my 95 Civic with a hotter cam, intake, exhaust, ignition upgrade, headers, made a bit more power at 6500 to 8200 RPM, but how often did I really need that HP gain at that RPM?

Anyway, I agree with your claim to be making 5 more HP, but that might be a bit conservative. With those mods you are probably making a bit more than that at peak power. That is my best guess anyway.

 

While I almost completley agree with what you have said, taking my 22re on a 3 hr. road trip turns out to be closer to 4 hrs. The power just isn't there. I'm still trying to figure out if the "horse power upgrades" will be able to change that and finally give me some top end on the highway. What do you think?

 

Not happenin'.

 

A header and bigger exhaust(2-1/4" piping) will definitely make a difference and allow for easier cruising. I put a Downey header and full 2-1/2" exhaust(overkill for the 22RE) on my 86 4Runner that had an automatic and 32" tires with no regearing and it still had better acceleration and easier cruising than when it was stock with the stock tires. The 22RE turbo in my old 87 4Runner kicked butt with power, but it got lousy gas mileage for a 4 cyl and you couldn't really keep it out of the boost due to the nature of the engine and the truck you're trying to move. The newer GM trucks are pig heavy and that's why you didn't feel the fact that it had more torque than the Toyota. Plus, the automatic trans shifts too early and bogs them down.

 

There's a guy on the board (POS2SIMS, I think) that has a 22re that has similar mods w/ a few more items (I think an upgraded cam as well). He says that he pushes 33's w/ no issues. If he had smaller tires, his truck probably has great power for a 4banger. PM him (hopefully I got his name right) and ask him. He may have even dyno'd it; you never know.