Snipes4ever

Hello all,
So i blew ahead gasket awhile back and started tearing my 3.0 down to put in new gaskets. After i got the heads off, the cylinder bores looked like they could be honed and cleaned up a bit along w/ new rings, so i figured i would pull the engine and redo everything. Got the engine all pulled and torn apart now and i took off the oil pan the other night and heard this weird tinging nosie as i was pulling it off, which i later discovered were the thrust washers for the crank.
So i pop off the main bearing cap unit, the rod bearings caps, and pull the crank. Turns out the forward thrust washer on the bottom had popped out and the upper stayed in there and ground a groove into the crank and carrier, until it eventually popped out and fell into the bottom of the oil pan. The washer didn't grind into the block at all, but the crank did rub a bit off of the block wear it was touching due to a lack of thrust washer.
My question here is, does anyone think its possible to just get the new crank and carrier, new bearings and be able to get it to work. I think it might because with new thrust washers, the crank will be properly spaced. The washer groove in the block was not harmed, only the raised areas around it. I will post pictures this eveing as i am at work now.
Also, an engine swap is not an option as school starts soon and i have to pay tuition and i already have all new parts (gaskets, tranny rebuild, timing kit, oil pump) for this engine. Any suggestions would be great and maybe places to buy a new crank and carrier or a new block if i need one. Thanks ahead of time.

SEAIRESCUE

I would take the block, crank, bolts and funky main bearing casting to a auto machine shop to discuss. The crank can be welded to repair any groove or damage. Block groove may not be an issue. The question remains as to why the thrust half came out? If you local machine shop can not make the repairs, find a big rig engine shop. They can work magic.

Snipes4ever

Thanks for the info, i will do just that. I have no idea how it could have popped out either, the other three washers were crunched up and in the oil pan.

Yoda

Do you wait at stop lights (etc) with your foot on the clutch? Fastest way I know to wear out the thrust bearing. Not dissing you, a lot of people don't know.

Snipes4ever

Seairescue, you were exactly right, i took it to carquest and their engine builder checked out the crank and said they would weld it and then turn it. He figured $40 to weld it and $75 to turn it, priced a new one from there and it was $250. He said the block and carrier were fine and the new washers would take up the play.
Yoda, i do use my clutch at stoplights, but i'm not sure i understand how that would wear the thrust washers holding the crank in position, maybe you mean the throwout bearing? Anyways, thank you both for your advice.

Yoda

When you press the clutch in, it forces the crankshaft foreward. At idle, you have minimum oil pressure. Constantly holding it in will increase wear on the rear-facing thrust bearing. When it wears too much, then the thrust bearings can fall out.

I was changing a clutch on a 22R, and the crank had about 1/4" of end play. Found the thrusts in the pan, and severely damaged crank AND block.

toyota_mdt_tech

Common problem w ith those heavy clutches. Those can put a heavy load on the rear thrust from pushing the clutch in. With a heavier pressure plate, you can overcome the oil pressure, drive the crank forward, wearing out the rear thrust. Eventually, the crank moves enough to drop it out and the damage happens fast.

MonsterMaxx

seriously consider the 3.4 swap before you pour a bunch of coin into the 3.slow

Snipes4ever

Thanks guys for the advice on the thrust washers, i understand now. From now on, i will put the truck in neutral @ lights. What else can i do to prevent this? Tighter clearances or something, or just deal with it?

Monstermaxx, u have no idea how i would love to swap some power into my baby, but like i said, this wasn't supposed to be a big project. Now i have too much tied up in this engine to get a different one. I don't mind my 3.0, it pulls what i want it too and always starts, even with a blown hg and missing thrust washers. I'm hoping this freshening it up will make it a bit more powerful, but all i would really like is a 3+ mpg gain. I would rather stick my money into other things, like a rear locker and a new box and paint. Thanks much for the advice tho.

I will be rebuilding the tranny soon (manual) as it has a bearing goin out somewhere and also it made a loud sound like marbles were in the tranny when i was in any gear for the last couple thousand miles. It shifted fine and never got warm, had full oil levels. I'm thinking it was the input shaft bearing? Any advice on the rebuild anyone? I don't want to just buy another one becuz then you don't know what you are getting and the FSM and some other sites i've seen made it look "kind of" easy. We shall see...

Tacotex

How many miles on your drivetrain? Just curious. Fyi, after doing some searching, I got rid of the K&Ns in our trucks and went back to oem air filters for cleaner air/intake

Snipes4ever

The body as 275,000. The original engine was replaced by the original owner @ 200,000 miles @ a Yota stealership, within 20,000 miles he had run it out of oil (he didn't care too much about his vehicles i am told) and brought it back to them saying it didn't sound right (duh! it was out of oil! ) they rebuilt the whole thing, bored, decked, ground the crank, everything. He ran it low or out again i believe after another 25,000 miles and one of the rods started to knock. Thats where i bought it, replaced the mains and rod bearings and thrust washers (which is why i can't believe one of them popped out). Now, i just blew a head gasket and upon head removal, figured the cylinders could be rehoned and so i just tore it all out and am redoing everything, which i wish i would have done when i replaced the bearings.
I believe the tranny has the same amount of miles as the whole truck. Starting to wish i wouldn't have bought this "sweet deal" and gotten one from an old man who never drove it and built that up.
This is a very good truck and i can't believ it survived the abuse it did, now it gets the loving care it deserves.

Tacotex

I had a red '93 I sold with 190K on the drivetrain (-head gasket recall). After driving it for 12 years, I sold it for $4500.00 cash after I bought my '04-now it's living on a deer lease. I love the '04, but would like it even more if it we're built in Japan