Lets here a couple last minute pointers before I go bite off more than I can chew considering there's slush falling at the rate of 2"/hr.

For the caster how much further out should the rear cam be, compared to the front? 45*? I have power steering and I want it to track well on the highway, but I'm worried that too much will cause excessive wear on the idler arm. or other steering linkages. I have no way of measuring caster so I have to go by the markings on the cam bolts.

For camber, just confirming that I'm aiming for 0 camber whatsoever on a 4Runner. Will it drive alright with 0? The FSM says 0*45' + 45", which seems to be as close as makes no difference to 0 camber. (0 would be in spec).

For toe, I'm looking 1-3 mm, but is this measured off the rim or the sidewall bulge???

I checked the specs in my FSM. The only thing I can't measure is caster. So

 

I put mine with as much "+" caster as I could and still get my camber to near zero. The main thing is to try and get the left and right caster (cross caster) the same and positive.

 

When I did mine I just tried to get the front and rear cams in the same relation to each other side to side - I used one side as a reference as it was still as it was from the last alignment. As for toe I used a different technique than written up here - I spray painted a line down the middle of each front wheel then used a scribe (pointy thing of your choice) to scribe a line around the tire. By measuring between your scribed line front and rear it whill give you a good idea of toe.

Let me know if you need a hand. I might need your advice on swapping thirds soon!

 

mt_goat's got it.
and the toe should be checked from the rim.

 

Your frame has probly spread at the rear of the a arms and there's no way of going at it by the marks on the adjusters.I would recommend the frame truss Downey sells for this problem.These truck are picky about caster adjustment too.So get the camber as close as possible,test drive and redo.Trial and error is the only way even using a machine.BTW every thing is backassward when you adjust the lower a arm so you have to switch your brain.
Bigblock

 

Well, I snapped the torsion bar bolt at 3:30pm. Called Jimmy Pattison Toyota in North Vancouver (Parts dept. closes at 4:40) to get a new bolt delivered by morning. Spent a half an hour on hold (5 calls, put on hold each time). Finally I told the receptionist to tell them to call me and tell them its URGENT. Well, the didn't, and I won't be getting my bolts until New years Eve, if they're open, and they bother. NOT impressed. Pretty pi$$ poor service. /Rant.

So I won't be doing my alignment today.

 

Explain why you broke the t bar bolt.
Bigblock

 

many t-bar bolts I've heard of breaking were caused by working with the wheels on the ground.

 

Why? because I exerted more torque on it than the metal could take. There was a lot of crap in the threads.

Wheels were off the ground.

 

Risky Risky
Bigblock

 

Well I didn't know about the bj spacers.
Bigblock

 

??????????

 

Ya you know touching bolts an' stuff is risky bussiness....

Matt try to find out what size those bolts are - my buddys shop carries a good assortment of metric bolts - both Lordco and NS parts seem to have a crappy selection. There is also Fastenall just behind Cap mall...

 

I doubt you'll fine those T-bar bolts anywhere but the dealer.

 

Alright, its a little after 9pm, -6*C (20*F), and I'm starting my alignment. I finally broke the tie rod sleeves loose with Lloyds "Move it" (like PB Blaster), a propane torch, a hammer and chisel, and a pair of vice grips. I wanted to make sure those those could be broken free before I went and changed the camber and caster so I didn't have a ridiculous amount of toe-in.

I've got my ride height roughly where I want it, needs to be touched up as there is nowhere vaguely level around here. I think I will stick it at 13.5" where it was before the BJ spacer install.

Question is, is the Toyota IFS equal length control arms? I know I'm within a half inch of where I want the ride height to be, but Its not exactly the same. I want to improve upon the current (lack of) alignment tonight, but is it going to be screwed up if I crank the T bars up or down half and inch later on?

 

Alright, its a little after 9pm, -6*C (20*F), and I'm starting my alignment. I finally broke the tie rod sleeves loose with Lloyds "Move it" (like PB Blaster), a propane torch, a hammer and chisel, and a pair of vice grips. I wanted to make sure those those could be broken free before I went and changed the camber and caster so I didn't have a ridiculous amount of toe-in.

I've got my ride height roughly where I want it, needs to be touched up as there is nowhere vaguely level around here. I think I will stick it at 13.5" where it was before the BJ spacer install.

 

What's risky about adjusting t-bar bolts? They break all the time due to rust usually but I have never heard of anyone being hurt. The vehicle still has its wheels on so it's not going to fall on you.

If the bolts are healthy they will not snap with the wheels on the ground any more than any stud will snap when you put it under tension.

mt_goat nailed the caster question on the head.

Frank

 

Alright, I back. A little cold, but back. I didn't think it would be possible to loosen the cam bolt lock nut without an impact wrench, but its wasn't that hard. i'd hit it with penetrating oil a couple times whenever I was under the truck leading up to the BJ spacer install.

I first leveled the frame with a cheap carpenter's level (all I had) by putting sheet metal under the jack stand. After that, I maxed out the caster, then set the camber with a plumb line, then dialed in one notch on the cam bolt to give it a little negative camber. I'll do toe tomorrow, that should go quickly as I've already loosened the tie rod adjuster sleeves.

 

???

I broke one of these too, wheels off the ground. It's pretty common, and not a big deal.

I got the lifetime alignment from Firestone the other day. I'm not impressed. Sure I can go back across town, and burn half the day, but I'm not convinced they'll do any better next time.

Looking forward to your writeup, Matt. (I hope) I have found most of the alingment writeups to be sorely lacking in needed information, clarity, even purpose.

 

I am about to go through all of this myself, but last time i had enough trouble with tie rods to take the whole thing to a shop. They did a crappy job.

I broke a T-bar bolt while installing Downey torsion bars a couple of years ago. The top of the bolt went through the floor of my truck. I actually had to get it out from the top side (under the seat). there is a hole there to this day. I would call that a little risky. Penetrating lube made the other side much easier to deal with.

Great thread. I'm interested to see how this turns out for you.