What did I tell you? And so it begins. You should just fork out the cash and fix it. There is no such thing as a cheap fix when it comes to internal engine gaskets. The engine is overheating because it has a blown headgasket and you poured in some gasket sealer to fix it and it didn't work. Dude, pull your head out of your ass before you completely ruin your motor. Sorry for being so harsh but seriously.

 

wow, hate to say it but... we told you so man, guess you can go get your 30 bucks back and take the hit.

 

Now hold on . . .
We just removed the thermo and filled the system with about 7 qts water (still don't know where the other three are) but with the radiator cap off, we can see the fluid flowing well and the engine is not heating up.

So we think that because the thermo only opens when the block-side liquid of it gets hot, it wasn't opening before because there was no liquid behind it. The engine would heat up, but the thermo wouldn't open because it wasn't enough pressure/heat.

The next step is to drain the water from the system and fill it back up with radiator fluid. But this time we will remove the top radiator hose (the one for fluid to enter the block) and fill the block that way so that there's pressure and liquid and eventually heat on the thermo to get it to open when it needs to.

I'll let you know . . .

 

Hah!

It worked! We fillied the coolant system from the top radiator hose (to fill the block) and then filled the radiator through the cap. The thermo is in and working and it runs at operating temperature just like it did before the HG blowout. So this stuff should be good for a month or two at least.

I also figured out that the other 3 qts were probably in the block ( i absent-mindedly forgot there was a blcok drainplug for this reason.)

 

Well, good luck..

and if somone wants to buy the truck, tell them whats up!! don't want any bad karma hmm?

 

Bro that stuff is not going to hold for a month or two . It is a BAND AID , your ☺☺☺☺ needs stiches . If not it's going to leave you on the side of the road and then you can add a tow to the bill , Sorry man but there is no half assing it.

 

well whats done is done, i really hope it works out for you, i know a lot of our diesel 2nd gens are filled with that stuff in japan when they blow the heads, and are shipped over here to be sold on without us knowing whats happened to them. mine lasted 3 weeks before it popped its cork, but diesel is a higher compression ratio than gas. so with any luck you'll get the time you need out of it.

if you selling it joe public then please tell them, but too be honest if i was trading it at a reputable dealer, then i wouldn't bother. maybe i've been screwed too many times by used car salesmen, i just cant see them loosing any sleep over it, if it was the other way around

 

I have a headgasket that is leaking to the outside of the block, ~1" forward of the exhaust manifold. I have no coolant in the oil.
( https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/leaking-coolant-hg-worse-pics-116036/ )
I am very tempted to put in some of this block sealer (CRC Copper Block Weld - I already bought it).
The way its instructions indicate: Drain your system, fill with water, run up to temp, cool to the point of removing rad. cap, pour in sealer, run up to temp till leak stops, shut off, drain, let sit overnight, fill with coolant. Good to go.
I can definately see problems with an additive/sealer that is added to the coolant and left there.
I'll chime in later if I go through with it.

 

Wow... i hope you dont think life is this easy, just put band aids over every problem you encounter. We ran that head gasket sealer stuff jsut to try making it home when we blew a head gasket in a 350 chevy and all it did was slow it barley and clog everything up. We ended up just getting a new crate motor and flushing out the radiator a million times to get the crap out. Give it a few weeks tops off running at youll have white smoke coming out your exhuast AND a clogged cooling system. You obviously proved to everyone that you know nothing about motors but you did it anyway. there is a reason why head gasket blow like neglected cooling system, not replacing thermostats. so when this doesnt work and you got a pissed off buyer that finds out that you used HG repair when u sold it too him(its easy to tell when junk like that is added when u tear a motor down) dont come crying to us.

 

Word. I just wanna hear what happens when it blows up for good. It should be entertaining to say the least.

 

I have used the "Fix a Head" stuff and it is getting me by. Just follow the directions completely. Try to buy the best. Of course, I just posted a thread for a reman 22RE source. Im ready to replace my motor, but its still running decent.

 

the dealers had a service campaign called a V06 headgasket replacement.
the techs were getting 3hrs. to do the job, so needless to say quality was lacking. I am a mechanic at an independent toyota repair shopand we do at least 3 headgasket jobs a month due to this. As for cost, the longer you drive this way the worse the damage gets. if you leave it parked with coolant in the cylinders rust will form causing pitting in the cylinder walls. Depending on how long this has been leaking you could have unrepairable pitting on the heads or around the water passages on the heads.

 

So, you are saying that the techs only get paid for 3 hrs. to do a 10+ hr. job? I'm going to have to call bull☺☺☺☺ on that one my friend. That's absurd. My girlfriends cousin works at a Toyota dealer and he's done tons of V06 campaigns and they get paid for how long it takes, not a fraction of the time. Jeessh. The reason the quality was lacking is because all they would do is replace the gaskets and nothing else. They would reuse the old TTY bolts and they don't send the heads out. This is verbatim from a Toyota tech.

 

wow, that is tough. I was a dealer tech for 7 years before i ment to an independent. campaigns are warranty work. As an automotive tech you are paid "flat rate". A job pays a certain amount no matter how long it takes you.
you should talk to your girlfriends cousins brothers sister or whoever.

 

Talk to him about what? All I'm saying is that they got paid for alot more than 3 hrs. labor for a head gasket replacement. Also, say a certain job books at 6 hrs. and they finish in 2. Then they get paid for 6 hrs. worth of labor that only took them two hours worth of work, what's so bad about that?

 

I had a leak in my radiator and put in stop leak cr@p and that didn't work, so I bought a used one from a junkyard.

Bad idea. All they do is fill it full of stop leak and tell you it holds water. Who cares if it holds water. Does it flow water is the real question. The radiators are supposed to flow 6 gallons per hour or something like that. My used one did maybe 1. Because it was clogged up. That is what caused my lock up. Not having any coolant flow due to a clogged coolant system. You will experience the same thing during this summer. You are just having a different location that is clogged. You will start hearing metal on metal grinding and then it will lock up. I even busted a rod and put a hole in the side of my block. You'll get $500 for it.

 

I'm curious, did you just add stop-leak to the coolant and keep operating it as usual? or did you drain your coolant, add the stop-leak to water, drain the water and finally replace with coolant?

 

I put in stop-leak. It did not the solve problem. I did not drive the truck and the next day I removed the busted radiator and bought a used radiator. It held water just fine. It did not leak. Everything is fine, honky dorey and then two months later... ....KABLAMO!!!!!!!!!!! I threw a rod right through the right side of the engine block. She did not like that too much.

I got another used engine and had a mechanic install it. It kept running hot after the install while they were testing it (they never gave the car to me). Then they went and had the radiator pulled and tested. It was flowing about 16% of what it was supposed to flow and that was the problem. I spent $200on a new aftermarket one. No problem since. My mechanic thinks it was the junky radiator that did not flow coolant that lead to the failure as opposed to a slow oil leak that is common with the 3.0s.

Back to his problem. I think the HG fix-it junk will clog up the arteries and will cause a major rebuild later when it goes KABLAMO!!!!!!!

Osiris

 

My 3VZ-e's headgasket blew a long while ago.. and had the same symptoms that you describe when I stopped driving it. I started in on the head gasket replacement job a couple weeks ago.. and damn the head gaskets were both in UGLY shape. The gasket blew at cylinder #6. At cylinder 6, the gasket had one fully blown out section that was slapping a dent into the piston. It also had another soon-to-be-failed location. I removed both heads and saw that the head gasket at cylinder #1 was very close to blowing as well, and also lighly slapping an impression into the piston. I believe that these are the common locations of these all too common failures. These failures are NOT going to be fixed by any coolant additive. I've seen full gasket kits (of unknown quality) on ebay for something over $100. If you've got a wrench and some time.. that is the cheapest way to fix it. Best luck getting your truck back up and running well.

Aside, I decided to replace the valve oil seals while the heads were off. It was a good thing, since I've found that my exhaust valves need some attention... The exhaust seats are worn and moderatly pitted. The intake valves look good. I've 210K on this 3vz. (headgasket campaign done at 83K)

 

Another easy way to check for a blown head gasket is to start the engine with the radiator prsssure cap off. I coolent comes spewing out (usually violently like a gyser) its a tell tail sign of a blown gasket.

I would not advise the pour in head gasket sealer. It will plug your heater core and radiator. It will also whear down the impeller on the water pump.