Help!! Trouble code 12
02-21-2009, 03:35 PM
#21
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Yeah, ive already got everything off except for the timing chain cover. The chain seems a lil loose to me. I'm not use to working on vehicles with timing chains. Give me a honda though and i can pull the engine and tranny and completely rebuild it in half a day. Giving it a break untill tomorrow..
02-21-2009, 04:29 PM
#23
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Lol Illicit sounds like you are going through the same hell as me on my 4 runner. It does the same thing...
Goodluck.
You can check out the 1988 fsm for ideas: http://granolaboy.net/temp/toyota_tr...4runner_88.pdf
I changed my ecu no effect so you can scratch that one.
Here's my thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rt-now-167509/
Goodluck.
You can check out the 1988 fsm for ideas: http://granolaboy.net/temp/toyota_tr...4runner_88.pdf
I changed my ecu no effect so you can scratch that one.
Here's my thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rt-now-167509/
Last edited by 934rnr; 02-21-2009 at 04:31 PM.
02-22-2009, 04:07 AM
#25
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One thing I am concidering is this maybe mechanical. I am going to pull my egr this morning to see if it is stuck open.
This can attribute to it not idling at all that is one of the symptoms of a bad egr valve.
The funny thing this did this the day after I used a cleaner like sea foam to clean out the valves and gunk in the intake.
So it may have freed up alot of crap and it went into the egr making the egr stuck open.
This would force exhaust gas in and the engine will not idle for very long because it's running out of o2.
This is like trying to breathe when your out of oxygen it doesn't work you pass out.
Kind of the same thing is happening the motor pulls a little air in the intake on start up runs then the motor forces exhaust back in the intake from a stuck egr runs out of 02 and stalls.
The whole purpose of the egr is to recirculate exhaust gas at high speeds usually at wot with alot of 02 saturation to reduce emissions.
So with it being open all the time it's trying to breath in its own gas with no o2 present because the motor is trying to idle it hasn't pulled enough air and falls flat on it's face.
Thus fooling the ecu it never sends a signal to the injector rail add more fuel or continue to run so it's like a repeating system that just loops over and over because it runs out of o2.
A bad open egr will also give the o2 sensor a rich reading forcing the ecu to lean out the injector rail.
Just a theroy.
Only because this 90's 22re ecu I have in it is giving me a code 21 for the o2 sensor as well.
I'll let you know how it works if not I have the fsm I'll be spark chasing.
This can attribute to it not idling at all that is one of the symptoms of a bad egr valve.
Any one or combination of rough idle, throttle hesitation, stalling, reduced power, and detonation pinging are some of the most common symptoms of a bad EGR valve.
So it may have freed up alot of crap and it went into the egr making the egr stuck open.
This would force exhaust gas in and the engine will not idle for very long because it's running out of o2.
This is like trying to breathe when your out of oxygen it doesn't work you pass out.
Kind of the same thing is happening the motor pulls a little air in the intake on start up runs then the motor forces exhaust back in the intake from a stuck egr runs out of 02 and stalls.
The whole purpose of the egr is to recirculate exhaust gas at high speeds usually at wot with alot of 02 saturation to reduce emissions.
So with it being open all the time it's trying to breath in its own gas with no o2 present because the motor is trying to idle it hasn't pulled enough air and falls flat on it's face.
Thus fooling the ecu it never sends a signal to the injector rail add more fuel or continue to run so it's like a repeating system that just loops over and over because it runs out of o2.
A bad open egr will also give the o2 sensor a rich reading forcing the ecu to lean out the injector rail.
Just a theroy.
Only because this 90's 22re ecu I have in it is giving me a code 21 for the o2 sensor as well.
I'll let you know how it works if not I have the fsm I'll be spark chasing.
Last edited by 934rnr; 02-22-2009 at 04:42 AM. Reason: spacing
02-22-2009, 05:58 AM
#27
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Well as far as I can tell it's closed so forget that one unless yours is open. I'll be checking the injectors next and the ignitor.
However after alot of reading I am leaning toward a afm problem. seems a lot of people have to replace those.
However after alot of reading I am leaning toward a afm problem. seems a lot of people have to replace those.
Last edited by 934rnr; 02-22-2009 at 06:05 AM.
02-22-2009, 07:59 AM
#28
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I just got the timing chain off and the guy had it out of time, I dont think it was off enough to bend the valves though, It was just a couple of teeth. The strange thing is, he didnt have the bright links on the chain mached up with the dots on the sprokets. they were off like 12 links...
02-22-2009, 10:16 AM
#30
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OK, LISTEN UP EVERYONE WITH THE SAME 22re ENGINE ISSUES AS ME!!! It all boiled down to a windshield leek!!! I live in Hawaii and the rust on the passenger side windshield area ate through and created a leek. Rain came and little did I know that the water was running straight to the "Circuit Opening Relay" located under the passenger side dash behind the glove compartment. I simply unscrewed my glove box, located the soaked relay switch and replaced it. The truck started and STAYED STARTED!!! A month went by and 5 or 6 mechanics were stumped until finally a friend figured out what the hell was going on. Good luck!
Basically the open circuit relay is part of your efi circuit if you turn the key to start you should hear it click.
It actually on the passengers side if you pull the speaker out that's in the dash you'll see it on the upper right it's black with a label open circuit.
Last edited by 934rnr; 02-22-2009 at 10:40 AM.
02-23-2009, 12:02 PM
#34
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Nope. Got it all put back together and still same old thing. But I decided to check for myself to see if it is getting spark, and its just barely getting spark. Would that be a bad dizzy or bad igniter. I know the coil, plugs and plug wires are new...
Last edited by illicit; 02-23-2009 at 12:05 PM.
02-23-2009, 03:08 PM
#36
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Congrats. Ive already got a new fuel pump and fuel filter.. Im thinking mines spark related cause it cranks for several seconds before it starts and my spark was dull orange and fired slowly. So tomorrow im picking up a new distributor cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires. So I guess Ill go from there. Atleast one of us got thiers fixed...
02-25-2009, 04:16 PM
#38
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Update!!! After replacing tons of parts and still no progress, I took out the fuel injectors and the screens on all of them were clogged to the max. So im going tomorrow to have them cleaned.. Hopefully that fixes it...
02-26-2009, 08:53 AM
#39
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You need to get back to the original code (12, no Ne and G), and trouble shoot the distributor and wiring to the ECU. These signals are generated from pickup coils inside the distributor. They can be marginal and allow the engine to start up, but after a little while, these coils get out of spec, and the ECU cannot understand the signal they send. Without these signals, the ECU will not tell the ignitor to fire. It could also be bad wiring from the distributor to the ECU, or even the ECU itself. But this is the area you need to focus on. Cleaning the AFM or fuel injectors should have no affect on this problem. You already mentiond that you are barely getting spark.
This happened to me with my 3.0, but it sounds like the same problem.
You will need a ohm meter. Any manual will have the resistance values for your distributor. You might even try getting a distributor from a wrecking yard and replacing it.
This happened to me with my 3.0, but it sounds like the same problem.
You will need a ohm meter. Any manual will have the resistance values for your distributor. You might even try getting a distributor from a wrecking yard and replacing it.
Last edited by Gonzo4Runner; 02-26-2009 at 08:59 AM.
02-26-2009, 09:16 AM
#40
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You need to get back to the original code (12, no Ne and G), and trouble shoot the distributor and wiring to the ECU. These signals are generated from pickup coils inside the distributor. They can be marginal and allow the engine to start up, but after a little while, these coils get out of spec, and the ECU cannot understand the signal they send. Without these signals, the ECU will not tell the ignitor to fire. It could also be bad wiring from the distributor to the ECU, or even the ECU itself. But this is the area you need to focus on. Cleaning the AFM or fuel injectors should have no affect on this problem. You already mentiond that you are barely getting spark.
This happened to me with my 3.0, but it sounds like the same problem.
You will need a ohm meter. Any manual will have the resistance values for your distributor. You might even try getting a distributor from a wrecking yard and replacing it.
This happened to me with my 3.0, but it sounds like the same problem.
You will need a ohm meter. Any manual will have the resistance values for your distributor. You might even try getting a distributor from a wrecking yard and replacing it.
@illicit: are you sure you have the proper coil for the truck? a coil with too high of a primary resistance will cause a weak spark.
