Monochrome

I can't locate the torsion bar adjustment bolt on my truck. I've looked in the FSM, my Haynes manual, and I've read a few articles that have been linked on this site via the search button. To no avail, but I'm sure it's just because I'm a noob to suspension components.

First of all, after looking for my torsion bars for the first time ever today, I came across this:


I assume that's a Downey aftermarket torsion bar setup. At first I was excited, but then I remembered how many people said that aftermarket torsion bars run really stiff. And I'll tell you -- my ride feels like friggin Indiana Jones at Disneyland.

This is the only thing I could see that could be my torsion bar adjustment bolt. Can you please tell me if I'm correct? If so, there's very little I can untorque them, which also made me upset.



While Googling Downey, I read a few posts about their "economy" lift package, which involves thick t-bars and leafs. I have Downey leafs in the rear, which makes me wonder if the PO bought this package. Anyone know what I'm talking about?

Thanks for any help.

iamsuperbleeder

good enough, or do you need more?

toyota4x4907

Lol. Yeah, you're on the wrong end of the T-bar.

Monochrome

This time, it feels good to be wrong!

I'll check that out tomorrow. Wish me luck.

Monochrome

I think I need a longer adjustment bolt. The suspension is still really stiff, and it's all the way to here:



Any suggestions? Can I just go buy a grade 8 bolt from Home Depot as a replacement, since I have an aftermarket torsion bar setup and the stock one from the dealer likely isn't going to be long enough?

Matt16

I wouldn't use anything but the factory bolts. I'd put those aftermarket t-bars up on craigslist though and replace them with stock.

desertcamper67

The bolt turns but doesn't move. Its the lever that moves and in turn adds or reduces the twist on the T bar.
No you don't want to replace this bolt with anything but another bolt actually made for this application. Yours most likely doesn't need replacing. Look at the other end of the bolt. You probably have two nuts toward the other end of the long bolt.. Break loose the two nuts from each other and then adjust the lower one. If you want to relax the suspension, loosen the upper one up the long bolt a ways and then loosen the lower nut which will start lowering that side of the front. Its good to take a height measurement on each side to get it even.
Making the adjustment from the nut side is easier on the adjusting bolt and the hands. You don't need to hold the bolt head doing it this way.

Alignment is needed after you get it where you want it.
I like Downey's springs but don't know about their T bars.

RMA

How about some pics of the other end of that bolt , The threaded end , thats the part that we want to see.

FredTJ

The suspension is really stiff because you have t-bars with a high spring rate (stiffer) than stock.

Also shocks have a ton to do with ride quality.

Lastly, remember, and I believe it's already been mentioned, that you'll need to do an alignment after any t-bar adjustment, up or down.




Fred

Monochrome

Thanks all of you for your responses, they're very helpful. I'm having a hard time understanding what else I can do though. I took pictures of the entire bolt assembly. Any thoughts?

FredTJ

Yeah, throw those t-bars out and go back the stock bars.
Also check and see what the vehicle is running shock wise.
There is nothing you can do with a higher rate spring other than change it out for a lower spring weight spring.




Fred

iamsuperbleeder

yeah those look like they're adjusted out about as far as they would go; there's not enough threads left on the adjustment bolt to losen them up any more safely...

the only thing you CAN do is ditch those Downey t-bars and install a set of stockers...

and I'd highly suggest just getting some new adjuster bolts and nuts from the dealership before you even try to turn them. I thought mine were in good shap when I went to losen them to swap upper control arms, but as soon as I put a decent amount of torque on them, SNAP!!!








I think it was like $16 from the dealership, and I was all good to go again

RMA

Wow , that was the threaded side , my bad. If you cant find some stock torsion bars locally I have some for you .$50 shipped for the pair.

Monochrome

Thanks so much guys for the responses. I'm going to think about what to do; I really don't have the time to tear apart my suspension. If I swapped the t-bars at this point, I would need to remove the AAL in the rear, and potentially replace the Downey leafs with stock. Time and money that I don't really have.

Thanks again.

yoterr

maybe some better shocks are in your future? i just got some bilstein 5100 for my dodge for 299, you can go cheaper with some procomp or rough country shocks..

desertcamper67

Can you index the lever (part that gets pushed by the adjusting bolt) onto another spline on the t-bar? Like moving the steering wheel splines a tooth or two.
This, I believe, can get you a softer ride without changing parts.
Jack up the truck by the frame so that the arms hang and the front tires are off the ground. Undo the t-bar adjuster and slide the lever back off the t-bar and reinstall one spline in the direction that loosened the lever. There may be a sirclip or some keeper preventing you from sliding the parts apart. Take it off and you should be in business.

I know bigger American trucks use 6 sided end on the t-bar but I think the Toyota is splined giving you some playing room. I am not suggesting this from actually doing it myself but I think it will work. If not you can just put it back the way it was. Make a couple of marks where the pieces join if you want assurance you can get it back.

Any thoughts?

yoterr

yeah seems like an idea, maybe the guy who put in the downey stuff didint know what he was doing and put it on a spline off....would explain the super harsh ride even tho its adjusted alllll the way out, wheres she ride at between the bump and droop stops?

RMA

you cant just pull them off and turn them one spline , if they are like factory ones .

They have a groove thats deeper than the splines and go in only one way.

Kiroshu

Oem.....

yodta

why would you have to remove the AAL's in the rear?

can you post a little info on what type of driving you use your truck for? I'm seeing a lot of OEM recommendations here.

what size are those Downey bars out of curiosity, do you know? from your ride quality description (haha ) I'm guessing at least 25mm, maybe even 26.

before you buy new bars, I have to recommend the Old Man Emu suspension components. I just redid my entire suspension, and I have to say the single biggest difference was when I went from stupid stiff 25mm Sway-A-Way torsion bars to the OME bars, along with their shocks. however, you don't necessarily need the OME shocks, maybe just something with an extra inch or two of extension, and you may not even need shocks. this is one of those things I'd approach one step at a time if you're adhering to a budget, and just see how it goes.

x2 on replacing the hardware, or at least having it on hand if this is your DD. you're grounded if you blow those bolts.

also, along the lines of safety...
jack up your truck and support it on stands by the FRAME letting your suspension sag completely before you start on those torsion bar bolts (I usually have to pull the tires.) I've heard some stories about those things letting loose with ridiculous projectile force. with the suspension sagging, there shouldn't be too much tension on them, but wrench them from the side and not directly under just to be safe. and wear eye protection!

as for the time factor... torsion bars aren't really that big of a job, providing you don't have any stuck splines at the control arm or in the lever cups. I did both sides recently in under an hour.

a couple of tips:

• use KROIL or PB Blaster and soak that hardware well a couple of times before you begin.
• after you remove the hardware, slip the lever/cups off the rear of the bars before you try to remove the bars entirely. those levers really get in the way. same for when you go to install.
• as noted above the bars are indexed, and can only go in one way. it's basically just that a spline has been shaved off. the bars don't really wiggle in or out, but you can certainly give them a little wiggle if they're kinda stuck on the control arm side. they should slip out straight back. same for installation -- line up the index spline and it should slip right in.
• don't forget to put your rubber grease caps on the bars first before installing
• clean and GREASE the bar end splines generously for ease of installation!
• lastly, don't forget that there are left and right bars, AND, iirc, front and rear ends; different diameters.

the OEM bars are 22mm, I think, or somewhere thereabouts. the OME bars are 23.xmm. I'm not even going to begin to try to describe the design technically. all I can say is that my truck still rides like a truck, but that it behaves very nicely on the road now, and wavy asphalt and potholes or speedbumps don't make me feel like I've just been kidney punched anymore. hands down one of the best upgrades I've ever made on my truck, and even just the torsion bars will make a huge difference if you're dropping back from 25 or 26mm bars.