Help!!grinding noise! Rear end gurus please read..
07-15-2012, 08:20 PM
#1
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Help!!grinding noise! Rear end gurus please read..
So I just bought a pretty cool truck, 1992 pickup. Its got a 4" Ifs lift on it on 33's not bad for $1000 but..... the sweetness of the low price is quickly forgotten...
It has an awfull grinding noise! only when you give it gas to go, if your easy on the gas, you cant make the noise happen, but if you get on it and drive it , real loud nasty vibration grind coming from some part of the drive terrain.
Im a pretty good mechanic, and in my troubleshooting,have a question, how much slop is the rear 3rd supposed to have?? This seems that I can rotate the drive shaft by hand a good inch? Anyway any advice or how to start the elimination process would be greatly appriciated.!
It has an awfull grinding noise! only when you give it gas to go, if your easy on the gas, you cant make the noise happen, but if you get on it and drive it , real loud nasty vibration grind coming from some part of the drive terrain.
Im a pretty good mechanic, and in my troubleshooting,have a question, how much slop is the rear 3rd supposed to have?? This seems that I can rotate the drive shaft by hand a good inch? Anyway any advice or how to start the elimination process would be greatly appriciated.!
07-16-2012, 03:15 AM
#4
Registered User
In Neutral tailshaft should rotate only a little, but depending on your rear diff type the amount of rotation may differ.
As it sounds like an issue under heavy load I'd drop the diff oil & check for debri - if so might call for a ring and pinion inspection or even check the diff carrier bearings that may be colapsing under load.
If clean oil I'd eliminate rear tail shaft spider bearings by checking for upwards & sideways movement in the joints at both ends. With a 4" lift installed its common that these joints get flogged out. Its worth changing them just to eliminate this out of the equation, or if you are on a tight budget you can sometimes check by adding a full tank & a heavy load to sink down the rear. This alters the angle and with less joint angle often it lessens the sound giving you a heads up on that being the issue.
Other issues can be rear output shaft wear, wheel bearing loose or on its way out, even excess play in the slip yolk.
Hope that gives you a few things to get started with.
As it sounds like an issue under heavy load I'd drop the diff oil & check for debri - if so might call for a ring and pinion inspection or even check the diff carrier bearings that may be colapsing under load.
If clean oil I'd eliminate rear tail shaft spider bearings by checking for upwards & sideways movement in the joints at both ends. With a 4" lift installed its common that these joints get flogged out. Its worth changing them just to eliminate this out of the equation, or if you are on a tight budget you can sometimes check by adding a full tank & a heavy load to sink down the rear. This alters the angle and with less joint angle often it lessens the sound giving you a heads up on that being the issue.
Other issues can be rear output shaft wear, wheel bearing loose or on its way out, even excess play in the slip yolk.
Hope that gives you a few things to get started with.
07-16-2012, 09:33 PM
#5
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Now, you're being a little vague saying "This seems that I can rotate the drive shaft by hand a good inch"....
The drive shaft has two joints, one at either end, and if those are worn, will contribute to "slop" in the shaft... as well as lots of noise.
So, when you move the drive shaft, pay attention to what moves and what doesn't move.
But I'd be willing to bet your u-joints are worn.
The drive shaft has two joints, one at either end, and if those are worn, will contribute to "slop" in the shaft... as well as lots of noise.
So, when you move the drive shaft, pay attention to what moves and what doesn't move.
But I'd be willing to bet your u-joints are worn.
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