slosurfer

Hi, I am in the process of putting balljoint spacers on my '93 4runner. I got the driver side all done and when I tested to see if the axle would bind I ended up tearing my inner boot. The thing is I think maybe the axle got pulled out and didn't go back in right, because when I jack it up it does not compress upward at all and now when the suspension is moved up the axle is binding. I don't know if this makes any sense. So my axle is basically binding at full droop and the tiny bit that I can compress it upwards. Please help and I have searched. I am going to Autozone right now to see if they have a new axleshaft for me, but I want to know what happened before I put the spacer on the passenger side. Thanks,
Chris

Silver_Truck

you probably over extended it when you dropped the lower control arm...I did the same thing and blew both my boots when I dropped it back on the round. I'd recomend taking off the nuts from the diff studs that way the whole axle can slide off rather then stretch the joints/boots

celica

you pulled it out (ie overextended). I did the same thing but all you need to do is take the balljoint back out and rotate the axle slightly until it slides back in.

slosurfer

Thanks Silver Truck, That's exactly what I did. My dad came over and we were able to drop it back down and get it to slide back together. I still have to change out the axleshaft tomorrow, but at least I know what I did for when I do the passenger side. I also have to add shims to my stock bumpstops because I bind at full droop. I kind of thought that stock bump stops would work but I guess it just depends.
When I looked at the nuts holding the axle to the differential side it looks like I have bolts not studs like everyone talks about. Maybe I can get a break sometimes, at least the cruiser coils went in without a hitch.
If anyone has any advice on getting the upper a arm up high enough, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again,
Chris

tc

Upper A-arm high enough for what? When I replaced my driver's side CV, jacking alone wouldn't do it - I had to have a buddy press down on the truck to get enough angle.

If you're taking the CV's out, check out the quick-change CV info. Basically, you use a c-clamp and a 17mm deep well to press out the studs, then replace them with bolts. Makes it A LOT easier to get the new one back in!

slosurfer

Thanks, as far as the upper A-arm I was talking about for when I install the bj spacer. That way I don't have to lower the lower arm too much and overextend the axle, which is how I tore the boot in the first place.

I was looking at the 6 "studs" and it looks like I already have bolts or do the studs have a hex head. I guess I'll find out in a little bit, I'm going to work on it right now. Thanks again,
Chris

tc

The "studs" have hex heads, but there is some knurling along the shaft between the threads and the head that keeps them from spinning. You can also hammer them out if you have a long bar.

If you replace them with bolts, they need to be grade 8 if SAE/inch or grade 10.9 if metric.

slosurfer

tc thanks, I'm going to tackle them right now. Good thing the hardware store is only 2 min. away. It seems like I'm there every half hour. Thanks again,
Chris

slosurfer

Ok, I've tried to take the six nuts off the diff side of the axle. I can't get them to budge. I soaked them last night in liquid wrench and I still can't budge them. Is there any trick or are they just being b#$tards? Thanks,
Chris

celica

When I did my BJ spacers I cheated and used the jack from the truck to spread the 2 a frames. I placed it on the lower and jacked up the upper. But be carefull because there aren't really any flat spots and it can pop out. I also used some shims between the bumpstop and the a frame so it wouldn't drop down as far. You should bind the axle on drop with factory bumpstops. Do you have your T-bars cranked as well - if so that may explain it.

slosurfer

Matt, I am using my bottle jack as well, I was just seeing if there was an easier way that I wasn't seeing. Like you said, it's kind of sketchy. As far as I know the tbars are not cranked, from what I've read I am in the factory specs as far as inches from wheel to fender. I am working on the pass. side right now and I am going to shim the bump stop. How much did you have to shim yours? Thanks,
Chris

celica

I shimmed mine even before I jacked up the truck as much as would fit

runethechamp

Don't know if I'm reading you right here, but the nuts should be on the wheel side of this connection, not the diff side.

slosurfer

That is what I meant to say. OK, Now I'm stumped. My neighbour helped me get the new axle on and I have everything buttoned up. My stock bumpstops are shimmed as much as I could, about 1/2 in. When I am at full droop I still bind, but what is weird is the pass. side with no shims at full droop did not bind. Am I missing something or what. I still shimmed the pass. side just in case. I think I am going to loosen the ball joint spacers and basically start from the beginning to see if I missed something. Any thoughts at all would be greatly appreciated. thanks,
Chris

celica

It shouldn't bind at all if you have stock everything except for the spacers. What do you mean by it is binding - be more specific. Is it not truning or turning partially?

slosurfer

I do have the new OME N98 shocks also. At full droop, I can only turn the axle a little bit and then it stops. Last night I tried to force it and that is how I tore my cv boot. I have the stock bump stops shimmed about 1/2 in. and it doesn't seem to help. I had none of these prob. on the pass. side. I hope that is alittle more specific. I just got done taking the spacers out and putting them back in, while making sure I didn't overextend the axle. I still have the same prob. I am stumped. I can't shim the bumpstops anymore because I'll run out of threads. Thanks for all the help guys,
Chris

celica

try turning the axle 90* and 180* & see if that helps. I remember reading somewhere that if it was off by 90 or 180 it wouldn't seat in properly??? I can't remember all the details or even if I am sure

slosurfer

Do you mean to undo the whole axle and turn it 90* or 180*? I just took it to the local tire shop and they said it didn't make sense either. At least it's driveable in 2wd right now. Thanks,
Chris

tc

I had to use a cheater pipe on the nuts to get them loose...

slosurfer

I've got everything buttoned up right now. Cruiser coils, rancho 9009's in back, bj spacers, OME N98 shocks, OME steering stabilizer. I still have the problem with the driver side axle binding (as in turns a little and then stops) at full droop. I have manual hubs so I can at least drive it right now. The tire shop told me to go to a shop that does a lot of suspension work and they might have some ideas. I kind of think that for some reason at full droop the axle just isn't seated right, but I don't know. So, I'm still looking for ideas as far as that is concerned. I really appreciate everyones help. I'll post pics soon. I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow to have the steering relay rod recall done. I was wondering if after it's aligned can I mess with the bj spacer on the driver side ( i.e. loosen it or take it off to mess with the axle), as long as everything goes back together I shouldn't need to get it aligned again, should I? Anyways, thanks again,
Chris