No......I don't know anything about elockers. So, I wouldn't be confusing that info. 2nd gen 4rnrs, which I'm basing my statements on.....and the OP's 3rd gen truck would be identical, don't have that ecstatically wonderful, little luxury. Rather, I believe I'm either confusing an auto tranny/t-case set up with the technicalities of his 5spd or a difference between 4cyl and 6cyl set ups altogether. Lol....I don't know. So, I'm going to check my wife's '92 V6 auto 4rnr manual for a refresh.

 

Transfer case? Probably not, since you can atleast shift the t-case with no problems. And, I'm guessing the noise isn't predominent in the cab??? The t-case is right under there.

Now, driveline is a possiblity. Pull it down and check the u-joints and slip joint. UJ's should rotate smoothly and slip joints should have very little to no play save the sliding action of them. Well, no play really, but even a little play from wear wouldn't create a knocking. Merely a vibration when driving at most.

As well, check the pinion and side axle flanges at the front diff for excessive play.

 

man this is a great site!!

Son has it at school today so I am waiting for him to get home to start poking around again.

thanks much for all the info thus far.

 

x2 on the front driveshaft. I bet one of your u-joints is banging against something. Perhaps the t-case skid plate?

 

ok pulled the actuator housing off and it seems to operate correctly when vacuum is applied to the correct port. nothing appears bent or obviously damaged or up from someone else messing with it.

onto the driveline i gather.........

 

Affirmative, captain.......

 

Look, I love my Toyota 4x4 too, but don't you think and an engagement is going a little too far?

 

apparently you dont love your 4x4 enough

 

Dearly beloved Toyota owners, we are gathered here, on this, oh so special occasion....."

 

insted of buying a ring. you can get new gears. or new tires... or some other round part

 

Are all four tires the same size and in similar condition? If tire sizes are different front and rear, or different between left front and right front, the front differential is going to be spinning at a different rate than the rear and complicate the ADD sleeve engaging. Similarly, if the gear ratios in the differentials are mismatched a similar issue will develop.

 

First of all, I took off the vsv and moving the shifter from 4h to 4l the fork moved as it should have. Put everything back together , jacked it up and spun a wheel in 4h. The other didn't move. Kept spinning and every now and then it would "catch" with a clunk. The other wheel would start to move and then the wheel i was spinning would break loose and start spinning freely again. Did this for a long while and could never get both wheels to spin at the same time, not even one forward and one backwards.

Took it down the street, thinking the fork wasnt engaging the 4x4 and the moment I put the thing in 4l it engages but not cleanly and clunks and bangs. take it back to 4h and everything is great. tried the same in a dirt field as suggested and same thing.

This thing is really pissing me off!!

 

You just hijacked my hijack.

 

So which was was the other wheel starting to move when you were rotating the tires in 4hi? Was the drive shaft turning when you did this?

On your test run did it only pop and clunk in 4lo? and 4hi was hunky dory?

You might have a busted up spider gears. They actually break pretty easy if you get it wrong on the pavement. It is also possible someone switched one of the diffs and got a slightly different ratio which would destroy the spider gears in the front diff if ever run on pavement (ask me how I know!).

 

Sorry....

What I meant to say is...

 

I was thinking spider gear as well. The driveshaft would turn when the wheel engaged, which wasnt that often honestly. It clanks in both 4x4 settings.

HOw much of a pain is the ass is the front diff cover to remove to check it out in there? I know that there are only the 8 bolts or so but with the small lift it looks like a bitch to get around the cross member and the oil pan is right above it.

If the gears are slightly off from eachother, couldnt i take the rear driveline off and try to drive it just in 4H and see if it engages smoothly. That would tell me for sure i would think.

 

Personaly, I really like my manual locking hubs and my shift on the fly once the hubs are locked. After reading alot of the various posts I realize how lucky I've been with my '90 4x4 as I've not had many problems and did good with recalls which saved me about $1000 or better.

 

The front cover really isnt THAT bad. If your son has small hands get him to give you a hand

 

The cross member comes down off the IFS assembly so you can get the diff cover off. You have to take the actuator off first. Then, knock the bolt out of the diff cover mount. Then, take the crossmember out (more like wrestle it out)....the bolts are at either end of it, and finally pull the cover. Drain the gear oil first, of course.

Yes, you could drop the rear driveline and check for that. Of course, you could also count the ring gears and make sure they're the same. Pain in the butt, but you're already having that experience....

 

again thanks for all the help. I guess i have something to do tomorrow now!!!!