Lumpy

2x...

92 TOY

Whoa! I'm late to the party.

LUMPY thanks for the mention.

Are you done already?? Holy Hell ! I'm molasses in January.

ayoung101

ha, yep, it's all back together. started last. . . .wednesday i think. so took about a week total, working at most 2-3 hours a day. honestly, this job would be really easy if it wasn't for the intake. i've had so many problems with my damn intake.

92 TOY

Check out my mess......see the GREEN link to my thread.

ayoung101

yes, it was the banjo bolt, and yes, you were right, i apparently dropped one off re-installing it. surprisingly enough, i found it up on one of my frame members. had to re-remove the intake, air duct, and some other lines to get to it. and then i stripped some threads re-installing it. P.I.T.A. i hate when they thread aluminum. luckily it was a through hole so i just found a longer bolt and a nut.

NEXT problem, now i got a leak at the LITTLE banjo bolt waaay up on top of the intake manifold (at least i can get to this one without removing anything.) i'm assuming this one has copper washers too. mine has neither. and now i can't get it to stay running without revving it (starts up every time though), so i'm assuming this is the problem. unfortunately i couldn't find those washers anywhere, so as soon as i can get a ride to the auto parts store i'll pick up some new ones.

92 TOY

Post a pic, maybe I could help. I have everything in labeled paper bags in the back of my truck.

ayoung101

here's the point i'm talking about now. it's on the very top of the intake. it's the only banjo bolt up top. the picture is obviously with the bolt removed. i'm assuming it has 2 copper washers like every other banjo bolt. unfortunately, that size crush washer is hard to find. someone please help!

92 TOY

Alright, fresh from the garage to one of my pizza boxes to you.........PS...try PHOTOBUCKET, makes for much better pics.

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let me know if you need different views.

Team420

Ahhh... the csi banjo bolt washers. If they are the same size as the v6....good luck. I went to several different napa's before I found a shop that had one even close. The one I got wasnt a perfect fit, but it did the trick.

ayoung101

in those pictures, i only see one washer. i'm assuming you need 2? can someone verify?

i've already been to 2 different auto parts chains, no luck yet. i'll continue the search tomorrow.

92 TOY

I only have 1. Hopefully only need one too.

Lumpy

If it's not leaking that's all you need...

ayoung101

testing photobucket for the first time.



any clarification on if i need 2 washers instead of just the one? also, WHERE can i get them? not having much luck.

92 TOY

Photobucket = GOOD

I will check my books and get back to you on the # of washers.

ayoung101

so the guy at toyota asked me if this went to the cold start injector. is that what this is? maybe i need to start a new thread so new people actually read down to the 2nd page. . . .plus this is a new issue no longer related to my head gasket change. . .

92 TOY

Here's what I have, I brought it back in the house. I don't have any good diagrams or explanations from the Hayne's or FSM manuals, they just aren't there. So this is all I can offer to you.

And, as per the books, this is the COLD START INJECTOR, but I think you had that figured out already.

But HOLY HELL, if I'm reading your last post right, the TOYOTA guy should AT LEAST be helpful and it sounds like he wasn't.

But I am trying to be helpful.

The washer or "gasket" as it apparently is called doesn't look like anything special.

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Lumpy

Na your fine keep this going...
to answer your question, Yes it is the cold start injector.

ayoung101

oh yeah, almost forgot. LESSONS LEARNED from head gasket R&R:

1. it absolutely is possible, and not that hard, to remove your head with the intake attached. at least the lower intake. the upper intake is quite easy to remove, with the exception of the far rear bolt, and that bolt isn't really that hard either. after that is out of the way (don't forget to replace the gasket when re-installing), i literally just propped the head up (with lower intake still attached) leaning towards the passenger side of the vehicle by propping it up with a long 1/2" socket extension. quick, easy, painless. i'm sure you could use a bungee cord to something too. several people told me to just remove the lower intake otherwise i'd have to mess with the wire harness. they would have been right if i wanted to pick up my head and put it on the ground, but what is the point? with it propped up i had easy access to remove any trace of the old gasket off both the head and the block, and it was easy to drop it back on.
2. getting the camshaft sprocket bolt out. i had an almost impossible time doing this. . . .until i put the truck in 5th gear, as suggested by someone. it came right loose and didn't move everything too far from TDC, could easily get it back in TDC after the bolt was loose.
3. getting the cam sprocket back ON after the head is back in position. the service manual says to wiggle the sprocket back and forth until the chain is long enough to put back on. i'd like to say a big fat capital letter BS to that one. what they don't tell you is the reason the chain is "shorter" than when it came off. waaaaay down in the timing chain cover (assuming you didn't remove it just like i didn't remove it) is a chain tensioner. it's low and on the passenger side. it is spring loaded. somehow you have to compress it (towards the left side) so the chain will get "long enough" to get the sprocket on the camshaft. i used a 2 ft long 3/8" metal rod and a shop light. looking straight down, put the pole against the front cover with the lower end to the left and the upper end to the right. DO NOT leverage against the plastic chain guide cuz you could break it. fiddle around with the lower end until you get it on the tensioner. it does NOT take much force to compress it, so if you're pushing hard enough on the head to leave a divot, you're not on the tensioner. i didn't really know what i was looking at as i looked down into my front cover until i found the tensioner. when you hit it, then all of a sudden it's perfectly clear what you're looking at and you're in business. hang up the light (without moving the pole) and use that hand to lift the sprocket over the end of the camshaft. it took a long time for me to figure this out so i hope this will help someone in the future.
4. sharpies are useful, but paint markers are MUCH better. i wish i had used a white paint marker instead of a black sharpie.
5. there are a lot of vacuum lines. label all of them, or at least label the cluster (if they have some way of holding themselves in order).
6. don't even think about starting this job without ziplock baggies to put bolts in, and label the baggies.
7. if you do it the way i did it, you will have to remove 2 seperate fuel lines banjo bolts. DO THIS SLOWLY AND DO NOT LOSE THE COPPER CRUSH WASHERS!!! i lost both sets, and only found one. now i'm having a very hard time buying the appropriate crush washer to fit the other and that is all that is keeping me stranded now.
8. if you don't feel like dissipating the fuel pressure properly, it's not that big of deal. gas sprayed a little bit, but didn't soak the entire garage or anything. just wear eye protection ahead of time, cuz gasoline in the eye doesn't feel good.
9. mark the distributor properly (underneath the cap) before removing it. it spins as you take it out, so make another mark where it stops spinning so you know where to put the rotor to start as you re-install it.
10. put the power steering compressor back on BEFORE the distributor. you can't get to the bolts with the distributor in the way. it'll save you from having to re-R&R the distributor, and have to mess with alignment again.

that's all i can think of right now, hope it helps someone in the future.

92 TOY

OK I read the above quickly and promise to re-read when I get a chance. My wife is off and I got the "you're not going to be on YOTATECH all day" speech already.

I thought we were losing you in one of your earlier posts....so glad to see you back with those details.

But, seriously, if there is more than 1 washer / gasket thingy there, I'm screwed too....so I'm waiting to hear what everybody else has to say.

Team420

I have 4 3vze engines here. 2 of them have 2 washers on that banjo bolt, the other 2 only have 1. I think they came with just the 1, but if they have been disconnected before, 2 may have been used to keep it from leaking.