Tdubbs05

Well i had a pretty depressing afternoon when i was driving the 4runner around in the snow and noticed what appears to be smoke (not just steam) coming from the tailpipe, rough idling at low rpms, as well as a coolant leak. My coolant resevoir was competely drained after 5 days of not driving. I also found what appears to be a coolant leak coming from the right rear corner of the block. Well i'm pretty sure i've got a few bucks to spendin the near future, but i just wanted to make sure.

Coolant leak, rough idling at low rpms, and smoke coming from the exhaust pipe definitely a headgasket? How successful are head gasket sealers like http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=41?

rdlsz24

It definately sounds like a blown hg. Do you see your coolant leaking externally, or is it just disappearing?

As far as the magical repair gunk, don't use it. It will only cause more problems in the future.

At least you have a ton of threads on here for help on how to do it.

Rob

04 Rocko Taco

I agree with everything Rob said. Snake Oils and miracle goo - rarely are.
Fix it the right way the first time, and save yourself time and headache.

UK Drew

HG sealers are only any good if you intend parting the truck out in the next few days, other than that they just want binning mate

Tdubbs05

yep pretty sure it's coolant leaking that i can see coming out of the block. well think i'll have to take it in to a shop cause i have no experience, nor the tools/area to do it in since i'm in college. big time bummer...

i know this is gonna be expensive but how much am i looking at this costing? also how many hrs should i be looking at labor wise (just so i'm not getting completely ripped off.)? Think i can get a better deal if i order the parts online and take them in and tell them to install em? (what all am i looking at parts wise?)

dcg9381

$1k (ballpark)

How long it takes really depends on the experience level of the mechanic. Note that the head should be checked to be flat and machined if necessary.

How long it takes often doesn't play into the price you pay. It might at some honest indepedent shops, but mostly they look the required labor up in a book somewhere (one of several books) and they charge you X hours based on that book. The mechanics are often paid in such a way that they get more money for the more "jobs" they finish. If the book said 12 hours and it took them 8, you don't get a discount.... This is the way it works at most OEM dealers, unfortunately...

Just for reference, one of the Toyota dealers here in Austin has a labor rate (book rate) of about $90/hr. I knew a certified mechanic that worked for that dealership. His hourly wage was $17.50, not counting any payment that he received for getting the "job" done.

You're in CA - there are a ton of toyota people in CA - esp on the Marlin board.. Might ask around for a local reference.

Tdubbs05

yeah that's what i was thinking... well actually i'm in flagstaff, az right now for college so gonna have to look around for an honest shop. wish i was back in the bay area cause just had an electrical issue fixed at Yarnells Toyota and they were def an honest shop. Anyone know of a good shop here in Flag?

Thanks guys. Its a bummer but at least i know the prob now...