ovrrdrive

Supposedly, from the factory the 22RE is a non-interference engine until you mill the head or block. I'm not so sure about that, but I do know in my rebuilt engine when I jumped time I crushed 4 intake valves. Then I spent about 80 hours under the hood doing the job 3 times to get it right, and learning all about why it's a job that shouldn't be underestimated.

No way in hell I'd take off a head and leave a worn timing set in there, but that's just me.

Good news is that I'm pretty sure I could do it in an afternoon now. I learned a lot during that whole ordeal.

thook

I don't know where you learned that from, but it's simply not true. They are most definitely interference engines. The clearance between the piston heads and the valves is simply not there if the two should happen to move towards each other at the same time.

I know what you mean, though. A complete rebuild a lot of work. And, my God!...costly.

RedRider

a new timing chain and guides wouldnt hurt, especially since the guides are a sort of plastic; youre already so invested. But, I just had a head gasket done (i lack your skills) and my guides were in pieces and the noise when I was driving it wasnt that noticable

My99

No progress yet due to unforseen and unrelated setbacks. Thanks for the tips. Hopefully something will happen good tomorrow. The tapping and lubricant spray continues. I did get the shipments from engn builder and mr injector this week!

colsoncj

Looks good man, nice progress Keep up the work! I'll keep my fingers crossed you get the bolt out. On the milled head, the tensioner will easily make up the difference. Also remember to adjust those valves after you get it running again and warm.

Looking at the pictures, do you know if you're engine has sat idle for a while?

Pistonman

Coolant will eat your bearings,get it out of there. Do the E.B. timing kit. Yes, it is an interference engine.Weld a nut to the broken stub, even if it is below deck surface. If you do not have a welder rent or borrow one.

mr_schuster

All Toyota chain driven engines are interference. The only N.A. engine I know of that is belt driven and an interference engine is the 4.7L V8.

thook

He didn't have coolant in the oil. Just oil in the coolant. No worries there....thank God.

R_Siks

I just finished doing exactly the same thing to my truck (rebuilt head, rebuilt injectors, left the timing set alone because it was fresh). I would carfully inspect all of threads on the exhaust manifold side and if you have any doubt drill them and run a heli coil in. On mine all the threads looked fine but when I re installed my header, one stud got to about 25 ft/lbs and then pulled out all the threads. It is A LOT easier to put in a heli coil with the head off (use a drill press if you can). To be honest, the next head I pull will get heli coils in all the manifold holes regardless of thread condtion.

My99

Okay. Well tonight I finally got a chance to get after it. Progress was slow to say the least. I started out with the propane torch. Held the hot flame right on the bolt for about 5 minutes. It didn't seem to do much, but who knows. Within another 10 minutes it was only warm to the touch. I made a starter hole with the center punch, and then started in with the bolt remover. Essentially a bit that carves in reverse, and when you get deep enough, the threads on the outside of it will try to grab the shoulder of the bolt that you're cutting into and turn it.

It was VERY slow going so I decided to use a drill bit to get a pilot hole going. This seemed to work better than I expected. It was just an ordinary bit out of a $10 variety kit you find at Wal-Mart. I kept it oiled, and made progress. Then I went back in with the extractor and started making some progress. This worked well and I began alternating the two.

So I stopped when I was about 1/4 - 1/3" deep into the bolt. I'm a bit concerned because despite the bit "grabbing" onto the bolt, it's not budging. Just keep drilling, right? Well what bothers me more than that is the fact that I think I'm getting a little bit off-center with my drilling, due to the fact that I'm standing in front of the grille and drilling back at the firewall, thus much of my force that's pressing on the drill is also coming from the back-side of it, pushing the hole too far back. I fear I'm about to, if not already cutting into the threads of the block. Something I'm very concerned about.

So what do you think? Keep on drilling or pull the block out and take it to the machine shop? What's the worst I could possibly do? I mean if I'm going to have to take it to the machine shop anyway if I mess up the threads, is there any reason not to just pull the block and take it now? Not that it's something I want to do at all... but if it's got to be done I might as well do it sooner than later I suppose.

Anyway, as usual, please share the wisdom.


Goodnight,
Kyle

Luvmeye22re

Would it be sufficient to use a tap to clean the threads or is it still a better option to go with the helicoil kit?


Oh and I wish I could offer some advice, but I'm about to be where you are.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

if the bolt comes out, you will not have to helicoil it.

Just run a tap down there, clean out the hole real good, and you will be fine.

Pistonman

Almost impossible to drill center without a piloted bit. Weld a nut to it. It was stuck tight enough to snap the bolt, I doubt that is taking it out.

Jeenyus04

You could try welding the nut as long as it doesn't get welded to the block to but personally I'd pull it, have a machine shop take that out and hot tank it while its there because I hate to tell ya but the 3m pads are known for blowing engines up because the little particles get in there and then are put in the bearings. GM had a major recal about using those pads 5 or so years back and we just had a cummins ISX come in with worn cam lobes, bearing, and rollers, and when we pulled the pan many of the bearings were shot and he had just had some work done about 100,000 miles ago so we suspect that to be the problem (I'm a diesel mechanic). So once your there you should have it dipped then maybe even finish of with engnbldrs complete rebuild kit, then you can have a brand new engine and not have to worry about it for the next 300,000!
Sorry again to be the bearer of bad news I just didn't want to see you do all this hard work and have to rebuild the whole thing in another 6 months. And next time you remove gasket material on an engine use a die grinder with a pad with a bunch of little rubber stems on it.
Good luck!

thook

Ennnnnggghhh....tricky.

It doesn't look like you've gotten into the threads, yet. But, at this point I'd stop anymore drilling. This is a tough call. If you have no means for getting a "real" gas torch on there to heat that bolt to red hot and then try the ez-out, I hate to say it too...I think you're going to have to take it to a shop. But, explore the options first before you pull the motor.

Try the ATF/acetone...dead serious. Found these short threads about it.....both, apparently, on the same study:
http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/ur...il/011266.html
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...ev=#Post989949
As I've said, use it conjunction with the torch and ez-out.

Talk to Paul's (for example) and see about them removing it with the motor in the vehicle. I don't know if they can, but it would be easier than pulling the motor out.....just cost for towing and services. Unless, you actually have a way to pull the motor and are up to doing it.

My99

Well, it's been a while since the last update. So here's the latest pickle I'm in.

The extractors would simply not work. I broke a handle or two on the "T" bar type device that hooks on to the top of the ez-out. No go there. So finally, I simply had to bite the bullet and drill it out. Drilling went fine, I thought. Then I put in a Helicoil kit. Holy crap have those things gone up! Anyway, get the threads tapped and helicoil in with minimal fanfare. I have some buddies over, so I have them help me lay the head on, just to see if the hole lines up. Eyeballing it, the hole does line up. THe problem is, as I suspected, is that I wasn't able do drill straight down. Therefore, the hole is pitched at an angle. So for example, I was supposed to drill at 90 degrees from the surface of the block. Well, I drilled at say, (just guessing) 85 degrees, so that instead of the head bolt sticking straight up through the block, when threaded in, it points kind of backwards, toward the cab of the vehicle. This isn't obvious until you put the head on. However, it seems without the head on the truck, it will never run quite right.

So, I've got to find a solution. At this point, I'm thinking my only viable option is to either have my block machined by a machine shop, or toss the whole block in favor of a junkyard block. If the cost is about the same, I think I'd prefer to use my block, since I know that it is a good one. Any other ideas?

thook

Ouch.

I would call the machine shop and see what they can do, though I don't if that's going to be repairable. If you wind up needing a block, let me know and I can try and help you find one.

prodigy2k7

ouch well sorry to hear that, I am lucky. My bolt that broke off was 1 inch above the block. Wow, thats scarry.

Matt16

DO the fuel filter while the head is off.

RedRider

I wouldnt be too reluctant on getting another block... most blocks are "good ones". Even if the machine shop corrects the pitch, it just seems unlikely as a perfect hole that would come with another block. I wouldnt want to get rid of my old block either i guess... keep up the good work