guess what, anopther 22re running bad!
03-15-2009, 06:36 PM
#1
guess what, anopther 22re running bad!
i dont get it yesterday it was running great. i drove around town in the morning and had no problems. then last night i went to move it out of the garage after working on the rear suspension and bed cage and it was running funny. when i first started it the idle was bouncing up and down from 500-1500 and once it wared up was idling high. so i parked it for the night and figured i would look at it today.
so today i start it and when i go to move it into the garage, it starts missing and hesitating. i drove it around the block and once above 2500rpms it runs smooth and i couldnt tell there was a problem. however when i came to a stop it would idle at 400-500rpms and wanted to stall. so when i got home i popped the hood and started to look for a loose connection or something out of the ordinary but i didnt see anything. i pulled the plugs and this is what i found. plugs have less then 8000 miles on them.
i cleaned them up and re-gapped them to spec and also checked the cap and rotor which are all pretty new and seemed to be fine. i started it up and now its idling at 900 rpms but has a really bad miss and its blowing smoke out the tail pipe. i pulled the plugs one more then they look just like they did before but this time they smell of gas and were wet.
so, what has happened to my engine in the coarse of a day?
so today i start it and when i go to move it into the garage, it starts missing and hesitating. i drove it around the block and once above 2500rpms it runs smooth and i couldnt tell there was a problem. however when i came to a stop it would idle at 400-500rpms and wanted to stall. so when i got home i popped the hood and started to look for a loose connection or something out of the ordinary but i didnt see anything. i pulled the plugs and this is what i found. plugs have less then 8000 miles on them.
i cleaned them up and re-gapped them to spec and also checked the cap and rotor which are all pretty new and seemed to be fine. i started it up and now its idling at 900 rpms but has a really bad miss and its blowing smoke out the tail pipe. i pulled the plugs one more then they look just like they did before but this time they smell of gas and were wet.
so, what has happened to my engine in the coarse of a day?
03-16-2009, 06:57 PM
#2
well if anyone cares or is having similar issues with there engine, mine was fixed today by changing the AFM. i replaced mine last year with one from a celica and i advanced the setting by 2 teeth. well when i sealed it back up i apparently misses a spot and water got in and had caused it to scale up and start to corrode the internal electronics. i replaced it with the stock one and it runs like normal now.
03-16-2009, 07:49 PM
#3
Contributing Member
well if anyone cares or is having similar issues with there engine, mine was fixed today by changing the AFM. i replaced mine last year with one from a celica and i advanced the setting by 2 teeth. well when i sealed it back up i apparently misses a spot and water got in and had caused it to scale up and start to corrode the internal electronics. i replaced it with the stock one and it runs like normal now.
looks like I have something to do tomorrow afternoon, lol
07-30-2009, 05:38 AM
#4
bumping this thread because i have another problem.
my truck has been running beautify up until like 2 weeks ago and now when i am driving, my truck is missing at 2500rpm or higher. i cant really feel it in first, second or fifth gear as much but when i hit third and forth its really bad. yesterday i replaced the plug wires, cap, rotor and the fuel filter but it changed nothing. the plugs are still pretty new so i ddint do thoes. the AFM seems to be working fine this time so i dont think its that again. i havent seen any CEL either. it has lots of power still its just missing and it really annoying. the miss seems to be very random and sporadic, its really confusing the crap out of me though.. anyone got any ideas?
my truck has been running beautify up until like 2 weeks ago and now when i am driving, my truck is missing at 2500rpm or higher. i cant really feel it in first, second or fifth gear as much but when i hit third and forth its really bad. yesterday i replaced the plug wires, cap, rotor and the fuel filter but it changed nothing. the plugs are still pretty new so i ddint do thoes. the AFM seems to be working fine this time so i dont think its that again. i havent seen any CEL either. it has lots of power still its just missing and it really annoying. the miss seems to be very random and sporadic, its really confusing the crap out of me though.. anyone got any ideas?
07-30-2009, 03:54 PM
#7
Registered User
dang, I swapped mine out to a supra MAF, haven't had any problems. I have been trying to sell my old stock MAF, this gives a good reason to pull the ad and keep it. Now I just have to stash it so the wife doesn't try to toss it.
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07-31-2009, 05:32 AM
#8
i checked my connections and everything is tight. i sea foamed out the intake manifold and no change. i will take some video of it later today after i wake up. im starting to get desperate and i dont want to take it to a mechanic if i dont have to. anyone got any other ideas?
08-01-2009, 06:21 PM
#9
well no video of it yet but i have been working on it. i checked the AFM and TPS today with my multimeter and they seem to be fine so then i pulled the plugs out today and this is what i found.
#1 being in front on engine
so what do you all think? am i assuming right thats it s a fuel issue?
#1 being in front on engine
so what do you all think? am i assuming right thats it s a fuel issue?
08-06-2009, 07:42 PM
#13
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sorry but I am a complete newb in engines.
I am not sure what we are exactly looking at and am here to learn.
I think the second photo shows a non flush kind of corrupted surface that surrounds a valve? a cylinder head
sorry to be stupid here... sorry to see what is happening to you robertm
I am not sure what we are exactly looking at and am here to learn.
I think the second photo shows a non flush kind of corrupted surface that surrounds a valve? a cylinder head
sorry to be stupid here... sorry to see what is happening to you robertm
08-16-2009, 06:56 PM
#16
the block surface checked out to be good and flat. the cause was the cheap, no name, ebay type head gasket that is in the pics. i got the complete long block from a local rebuilder after i hydrolocked my old engine and come to find out they used cheap gaskets to cut cost.
you can see how small and thin the fire rings are and the metal plate in the gasket looked like it warped and shifted around and caused the gasket to blow out.
i ordered the engnbldr gasket set but the guy doing the engine work said the head gasket that came with it looked identical to the one he puled off. so i went to toyota and got the OEM gasket and we used that one instead. he did say the other gaskets all looked good though, he just didnt trust the looks of the engnbldr head gasket.
you can see how small and thin the fire rings are and the metal plate in the gasket looked like it warped and shifted around and caused the gasket to blow out.
i ordered the engnbldr gasket set but the guy doing the engine work said the head gasket that came with it looked identical to the one he puled off. so i went to toyota and got the OEM gasket and we used that one instead. he did say the other gaskets all looked good though, he just didnt trust the looks of the engnbldr head gasket.
08-19-2009, 05:27 PM
#17
so my new dilemma.
i got the truck back on monday and it ran great and had more power then it ever did before the head gasket swap. the only problem was there was a dead spot in the low rpms. so i got it home and threw my timing light on it and i found that the timing mark on the crank pulley was about 1/2'' in front of the 0* mark on the timing cover. i could adjust the timing as far as 3* but thats all the adjustment the distributer had before it was toped out. i figured the timing chain must be a tooth off. so i backed it off to the 0* mark and i took the truck for a test drive and it had even more power then before and the dead spot was almost gone. i took the truck to work that night and it had more power then i though was capable out of this engine but i didnt want to cause it any problems so i took it back to the guy who did the head gasket today and he took it back apart. what he was telling me is that on the cam sprocket where the dot is, the chain was advanced about 1/2 a tooth to the left. so he took it apart and put it back to the right, so now it is where it was before with the old timing set.
however now my truck runs like it did before and has now power. im thinking about swapping it back to how he had it the first time but what kind of problems could this cause in the long run?
i got the truck back on monday and it ran great and had more power then it ever did before the head gasket swap. the only problem was there was a dead spot in the low rpms. so i got it home and threw my timing light on it and i found that the timing mark on the crank pulley was about 1/2'' in front of the 0* mark on the timing cover. i could adjust the timing as far as 3* but thats all the adjustment the distributer had before it was toped out. i figured the timing chain must be a tooth off. so i backed it off to the 0* mark and i took the truck for a test drive and it had even more power then before and the dead spot was almost gone. i took the truck to work that night and it had more power then i though was capable out of this engine but i didnt want to cause it any problems so i took it back to the guy who did the head gasket today and he took it back apart. what he was telling me is that on the cam sprocket where the dot is, the chain was advanced about 1/2 a tooth to the left. so he took it apart and put it back to the right, so now it is where it was before with the old timing set.
however now my truck runs like it did before and has now power. im thinking about swapping it back to how he had it the first time but what kind of problems could this cause in the long run?
08-20-2009, 04:27 AM
#19
Registered User
Yes that's possible. When I did my HG and cam the timing mark was leaning toward 11 a bit rather than being right at 12 high (closer to 11:30 I suppose). When I fired her up and ran real rough and I and to adjust the timing way off to get her to run and ran out of adjustment real quick. So I jumped a tooth on the dizzy and all is well. Could also be a combination of the 2.
08-20-2009, 05:48 AM
#20
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I'd always move the distributor a tooth before trying anything else. Can somebody remind me or give a pointer to timing marks and specs. I've got an '86 fuel injected.
I don't think my problem is timing but I'm interested in comparing the empirical and theoretical methods here. The guy that raises my rigs from the dead out of junkyards and puts 'em together just sets the timing be his convention of ear and test drive and never uses the timing mark.
Anyway, my bad running problem is under load. It idles fine and runs 5 minutes down the road fine and then starts dropping out completely when I put the wood to it. We're not talking skips or misses, we're talking 2 or 3 seconds of no combustion in any cylinder. then it comes back and then goes off until I park it for several hours.
This truck definitely had water in the fuel system before I got it and we replaced the injector rail and I had the gas tank boiled out at a radiator shop. I've run several tanks of fuel through since. This has just the feel of how the carb models used to run with a clogged fuel filter. They would start up and run fine for a few minutes and then as the suction increased in the fuel system with the clogging matter covering the surface of the filter element the truck would start to starve for fuel. Ultimately when it got really bad, you'd shut it off and wait 5 minutes and then you could go another couple of miles (and eventually you'd get to the parts store and buy a new filter).
But I haven't experienced that with the fuel pumps in the tank. Basically, if the fuel filter is clogged it kind of stays clogged. You aren't going to get clean starts and 5 minutes of clean running and even when the engine starts dropping out on mine, if I throw in neutral I can rev it up and it runs fine, no stumbles nothing. But put it back in gear and try to go somewhere and I'm right back in a world of hurt.
Thus I'm tending to think the spark is dropping, but maybe I'm fooling myself. Ran a ground wire right to the coil to make sure that was the problem. I did associate the onseet of this problem with a hard stop which again, could have stirred up the fuel filter a little, or might have shifted one of the ignition components a little interrupting ground to the body or something.
I'm perplexed and appreciate any ideas.
thanks,
Brian
I don't think my problem is timing but I'm interested in comparing the empirical and theoretical methods here. The guy that raises my rigs from the dead out of junkyards and puts 'em together just sets the timing be his convention of ear and test drive and never uses the timing mark.
Anyway, my bad running problem is under load. It idles fine and runs 5 minutes down the road fine and then starts dropping out completely when I put the wood to it. We're not talking skips or misses, we're talking 2 or 3 seconds of no combustion in any cylinder. then it comes back and then goes off until I park it for several hours.
This truck definitely had water in the fuel system before I got it and we replaced the injector rail and I had the gas tank boiled out at a radiator shop. I've run several tanks of fuel through since. This has just the feel of how the carb models used to run with a clogged fuel filter. They would start up and run fine for a few minutes and then as the suction increased in the fuel system with the clogging matter covering the surface of the filter element the truck would start to starve for fuel. Ultimately when it got really bad, you'd shut it off and wait 5 minutes and then you could go another couple of miles (and eventually you'd get to the parts store and buy a new filter).
But I haven't experienced that with the fuel pumps in the tank. Basically, if the fuel filter is clogged it kind of stays clogged. You aren't going to get clean starts and 5 minutes of clean running and even when the engine starts dropping out on mine, if I throw in neutral I can rev it up and it runs fine, no stumbles nothing. But put it back in gear and try to go somewhere and I'm right back in a world of hurt.
Thus I'm tending to think the spark is dropping, but maybe I'm fooling myself. Ran a ground wire right to the coil to make sure that was the problem. I did associate the onseet of this problem with a hard stop which again, could have stirred up the fuel filter a little, or might have shifted one of the ignition components a little interrupting ground to the body or something.
I'm perplexed and appreciate any ideas.
thanks,
Brian
