I need to add some weight so the suspension is smoother too, with that lightweight box I had, hitting anything would cause me to bounce around inside the cab like a ping-pong ball, with some weight on the bed it was a lot less rough.

 

DEFINATELY not true. just tcause you got a lift and mud tires dont mean you aint gonna get stuck. ive seen a yota with no lift, 31in BFG ATS and a welded rear go farther than a lifted one with mud tires and open diffs *cough* the lifted one was me *cough*. lifting this rig wont do a nothin to solve his problem. that statement you said is pavement pounder thinking
also i jus tnoticed your sig. how do you have a SASd 85 runner?

 

geeeeeeeeeeeeez what are those 33x20.50x15s!!!!

 

Wait, I got it.

How about THIS for my new bed:

 

lol

33x12.5

 

seriously? man those things look figgen huge.

 

So, with the bed off, there's some stuff that was under there that I should fix/replace. New exhaust time!



In this, there's two things I've circled because I'm unsure as to what they are and/or what they are part of. The arm attached to the axle housing ("higher" circle on image) has me really confused, I thought it was part of the parking brake system, but the FSM shows that it's somehow part of adjusting the rear brakes and doesn't say if it's for the parking brake or just normal operation. Whatever it is, it seems seized, and the bit of metal sticking out of it shows something is broken off, it needs to get replaced. Now as for the object attached to the frame, this is a brake cylinder, that much I do know, it's also got a cracked housing and is leaking a small, yet constant amount of brake fluid, no wonder I have crappy brakes. However, I don't know which brake cylinder this is as I've heard of both rear master, and just plain old slave cylinders. Which is it?

e: My replacement parking brake cables came in, and I want to get them in and have my parking brake working before I get the new bed together and on. I want it to pass safety so I can have it's status changed from unfit to fit for the road.

 

I believe those adjusters move the brake shoe closer to the drum once they wear out more and more. I could be completely wrong...but have no idea.

by the way, those are some ugly tires. lol

Anyway, you need a locker like me

 

Yeah, the pictures make the tires look more bald than they really are, those are snow tires, my other rims have some expensive Yokohama snows on them and I'm going to attempt to sell them to put money towards new tires.

I see you have an aussie locker, which is closer to a reasonable price range for me than most other lockers that aren't full-time. How do you like it?

As for the arm on the axle housing, I may just call the stealership and ask them what the heck it is if I can't find an answer. I can't even seem to find them for sale anywhere and would probably have to buy them from said stealership.

 

The arm is for the Load sensing proportioning valve. The idea is it changes the front/rear bias depending on how much weight is in the back.

IMHO, do not spend a dime repairing it - just replace it with a "normal" proportioning valve.

 

I say you take your tractor tires, and put em on there. the tractor made it through, right?

 

How expensive is it to replace? How would I go about replacing it with a so-called "normal" proportioning valve? Also, wouldn't load-sensing be good for me, considering the farm work and potentially heavy loads this truck will see?

 

It actually gets stuck in places from time to time even though it has a pedal-operated locking diff and anti-freeze filled rear tires. Namely here, which is the main laneway (more like mud river) to the back fields:


The loader bucket on it was the only thing that could get it out, using the dig in and push method.


The tractor is a JD 1830 (it's over 40 years old) with about 3600 hours on it. 2 wheel drive, diesel, I think it's 84bhp, with a top speed of 30kmph flat, 35kmph downhill.

 

Holy crap, the dealership wants $160 (CAD) for the spring assembly, and $300 (CAD) for the valve! How can they get away with charging so much for what the guy on the phone said were "critical" parts of the rear brake system. I hope someone goes 50/50 with me on those parts trucks, I'm not spending that much on a dinky little valve and spring!

e: Found both for $$208 USD ($225 CAD) on Toyotapartszone.com but that's still outrageous.

 

do you not have a junkayrd near you that's got minitrucks?

 

Oddly enough, I've called just about every junker/recycler around Kitchener, Toronto, and Owen Sound (where my truck is) and all but a few have any pickups from the right years, none of which are in any reasonable condition (most are sitting in water, so it's likely the parts I need are rusted beyond usability). The only place close to where my truck is has the exact same truck, sitting in the middle of a retention pond. I don't have time to go around to different junk yards looking for these parts. There's a couple of shops around Toronto that specialize in japanese vehicles, but they want just about as much for the parts as the dealership does. However, there are two parts trucks for sale near where my truck is, as I posted about in my thread about a kijiji ad. If I can't find somewhere here who will sell me the parts in the marketplace or anyone who'd be willing to go splits on those parts trucks, I may just buy both, I figure I'd save a lot in the end regardless.

Of course, if anyone has an easier/cheaper way of fixing this by using a different proportioning valve or something, please detail how to do it. Also, it looks like there's a proportioning valve in the engine compartment, do I really need the second one on the frame or can I just bypass it entirely? I know I said I would probably need the load-related proportioning due to potential heavy loads, but honestly, I'm not going to spend more on a valve and spring than I did on the truck, that's just nuts.

 

Sorry for having a bajillion of my own posts in a row, but I found another picture I'd taken of the valve assembly and had overlooked. It looks like the valve has already been bypassed (the brake line is slightly obfuscated by taillight wiring), but that doesn't explain where the brake fluid is coming from.

 

I love it. It can be a pain sometimes (jerking around slow corners) I'm pretty sure its going to suck in snow this year. But overall, its way more traction, and I don't really get stuck...unless i'm going places I shouldn't be goind

 

Lemme know how it acts in the snow, here in Canada snow is the way of life. If it isn't so bad, I may have to get one.

Also yay! 100 lame posts, woo!

 

huh...


I was always under the impression that if you did that, there would be TOO MUCH pressure to the back brakes and they would lock up way to easily...