Glowing Red Turbo, Normal?
#21
My A/F gauge is a wideband and it reads at about 15-15.3 at idle and at about 10.2 under full load and 8 pounds of boost. I will look into getting an EGT gauge. When I mount it, do I position it in the manifold or in the downpipe just after the turbo? I have an infrared temp reader so maybe I'll see what that reads at idle.
#22
That lean idle AFR is pretty good, but what about lean cruise? 10.2 at WOT is stinky rich, but a lot of older factory turbo cars are like that.
The EGT should ideally be positioned as close to the leanest cyilinder's exhaust port as possible, but between the engine and turbo will be fine. Putting it after the turbo will show temps roughly 200-300°F lower than actual.
To recap, your AFRs appear to be in order and the ignition timing is good. I think that just leaves spark quality and driving style. How are your plugs/wires/coil? Is there any boost showing when you were driving on the highway? What kind of gage is it?
The EGT should ideally be positioned as close to the leanest cyilinder's exhaust port as possible, but between the engine and turbo will be fine. Putting it after the turbo will show temps roughly 200-300°F lower than actual.
To recap, your AFRs appear to be in order and the ignition timing is good. I think that just leaves spark quality and driving style. How are your plugs/wires/coil? Is there any boost showing when you were driving on the highway? What kind of gage is it?
#23
It depends on how fast I'm going as to where my AF sits. as long as it can pull higher rpms it doesn't need the boost and runs at 14-14.7 cruising, but most of the time it can't pull its own weight without boost and it will run 12.5-13.2 with up to 4 pounds of boost. This is according to my Autometer gauges. My plugs have looked okay. I have been pulling them out at every fuel fill up (only 180 miles to the tank by the way), just to make sure I'm not detonating and eating a piston. I've been trying to listen for pinging but my exhaust is a little loud so it makes it hard. The coil and wires are stock as far as I know.
#24
it isnt abnormal for the turbo to glow either if you are doing highway speeds. what you are describing sounds perfectly normal to me. just make sure your timing is correct and you are getting no pinging and you will be fine.
#25
It depends on how fast I'm going as to where my AF sits. as long as it can pull higher rpms it doesn't need the boost and runs at 14-14.7 cruising, but most of the time it can't pull its own weight without boost and it will run 12.5-13.2 with up to 4 pounds of boost. This is according to my Autometer gauges. My plugs have looked okay. I have been pulling them out at every fuel fill up (only 180 miles to the tank by the way), just to make sure I'm not detonating and eating a piston. I've been trying to listen for pinging but my exhaust is a little loud so it makes it hard. The coil and wires are stock as far as I know.

It sounds to me like it just takes a fair bit of throttle and some boost to move the truck around, which will often make the exhaust parts glow slightly. I tend to think that there isn't really anything wrong with your engine.
#26
I used my temp gun and took a reading from the top of the turbos exhaust housing before and after I dropped the timing and it didn't seem to change anything. I dropped my timing from 10 to 5 degrees and it still looks forkin hot! I just don't want to cook this new turbo that I have way to much money into already. I'm reading just a little over 700 degrees on the exhaust housing after driving it and then letting it idle for a good five minutes
#27
If you're certain the turbo is getting adequate oil flow, I'd chalk it up to your 4,350' elevation. Turbos work harder at elevation, creating extra heat. I don't recall if the 22RET is a normalizing turbo (boosts to sea level) or other (boost above sea level) that would make it even hotter.
#30
It's a regular turbo that boosts Xpsig. I have only heard about normalizing turbos being used on aircraft and maybe special applications.
#33
Here's a little guide line on metal color and temps: http://911research.wtc7.net/cache/wt...s/metcolor.htm
#35
Here's a little guide line on metal color and temps: http://911research.wtc7.net/cache/wt...s/metcolor.htm
#37
#39
I am no RTE pro
but IF your egt probe is in the down pipe after charger @ 700'c
thats TOO HOT as u will loose 200-300 @ hot side of turbo charger
CHECK YOUR OIL SUPPLY + RETURN LINE
it should not glow @ idle
also if its water cooled check water feed+return
Using a stand alone engine managment systems
this is how you run charge air ANTI-LAG
AKA....boost @ idle with no load
its the in a street car.........
but IF your egt probe is in the down pipe after charger @ 700'c
thats TOO HOT as u will loose 200-300 @ hot side of turbo charger
CHECK YOUR OIL SUPPLY + RETURN LINE
it should not glow @ idle
also if its water cooled check water feed+return
this is how you run charge air ANTI-LAG
AKA....boost @ idle with no load
its the in a street car.........
#40
so the 22rte uses the ct20? interesting. so does my car. makes sense i guess. it shouldnt glow red just idling but if you where driving it fairly hard then keep it running it will stay hot for a while.
what is your oil pressure like? are the coolant lines connected?


