I have a 92 Toyota 4runner 3.0 v6. Was going down the interstate everything was running fine intill this; Engine dies so i thought it could have been fuel pump that went out. So i hade it towed to the house dropped the tank and threw in a new fuel pump, put gas into the tank and nothing. Checked all fueses and everything looked like it was good. Anybody that has had this issue or knows anything plz, plz let me know.

 

jumper the +B and Fp terminals in the diagnostic plug and see if it keeps running

 

Did the +B to Fp and nothing. Im pretty sure its a relay somewhere but what relay is the question. If anybody know a link to a wireing diagram or knows fore sure which relay is the main relay to the fuel pump would be helpfull. Because when i undo my main line comming out of the fuel pump there is nothing when i turn on the ignition, ran a hot line from the battery to the pump and it works fine so i know the pump is fine.

 

not sure about the 3.0, but on my 22re there is a 'circuit opening relay' behind the glove box/speaker location. it controls the fuel pump. mine want bad and no workie. swapped it out and good to go
edit: forgot to mention that they are $110 from the dealer and i got 3 from the wrecker for $10

 

Does anyone know the number on the COR?

 

For your pump, if the B+ to FP jumper in the diagnostic connector with the ignition key to "on" isn't making your pump run, and the pump runs fine when you bring 12V directly to it, then the problem is either upstream of the diagnostic connector, or downstream of the diagnostic connector.

The first thing to try is select your ignition to "ON", and check to see if you have 12V at the B+ terminal in the diagnostic connector. If you do, there is only one possible problem:

1. A break in the positive (blue) wire between the fuel pump and the FP terminal of the diagnostic connector. This is not as likely, but you can check this by connecting 12V directly to the FP terminal of the diagnostic port. If the fuel pump starts, that section of wiring is OK. You do not need to have the ignition "ON" to do this test.

If you don't have 12V at the B+ terminal of the diagnostic connector with the ignition "ON", then there are a couple of things to check:

1. The 15A EFI fuse (or one of two fusible links upstream of the EFI fuse) - this is easy to check. Verify that you have 12V on both sides of the fuse. If you do, everything is good. If you only have 12V on the upstream side of the EFI fuse, then the EFI fuse is burnt. If you don't have 12V on either side of the EFI fuse, then it's either the 30A AM2 or the main fusible link that are burnt (this isn't as likely).

2. The EFI main relay could be bad. Take it out and check it using this. The EFI main relay is the round one in the fuse box under the hood.

3. A break in the wire between the battery and the diagnostic connector terminal b+. To test this, after you've confirmed that your EFI main relay works and your 15A EFI fuse is good with 12V downstream of the EFI fuse confirmed, turn the ignition to "ON", and check for 12V at the diagnostic connector terminal b+. If you don't have 12V, it's either a wiring problem (or the 7.5A IGN fuse is burnt)... which is again easy to check.

Post up some results of these tests then we'll go from there. You can find a wiring diagram of the whole fuel pump electrical system here.

PS... the other part of the circuit is the fuel pump switch (in the AFM) and the circuit opening relay, but these don't apply to the tests I mentioned above. Get the pump working with the jumper first, then we can troubleshoot the rest of the system if required.

 

Never mind. I found it. it actually says Circuit Opening Relay on it....