Speedy_McTall

So... I'm a bit new to doing things like replacing shocks. I swapped out all my shocks over the weekend and did the ZUK mod. Everything went fine with the rear. But I messed up the lower shock mounts for the fronts. I was following the torque spec in the downloadable manual here, which said 18 ft lbs for the top and 101 ft lbs for the bottom... which I admit seemed a bit high, but who am I to argue with the manual?

So long story short I royally messed up my lock-washer and bent in my shock mounts. What's the proper torque spec for the front shocks? And will it be alright to leave the mounts bent in a bit or will it damage the bushings? Decrease shock performance? Or weaken it to a dangerous point? Or is it not really that big of a deal? What's the best way to proceed with this?

I have a 1992 Toyota Pickup 4x4 ext cab.

Thanks!

iamsuperbleeder

I never realized there was a torque spec for those

you're talking about the mounting flange(s) on the lower control arm correct?







If you bent them in, I'd take the bolt back out, remove the shock, and take a large pair of pliers to the tabs and bend them back out into alignment with each other.

Keep in mind that they DO NOT point straight up from the control arm; they're kinda angled back towards the rear of the truck






Once they're parallel for the most part, slide the shock back in and bolt it up.


If I recall correctly, when I installed my Monroes, they came with new bolts, and they were "crimped" locknuts, so they wont back off if not using a lockwasher. I just snugged them up to the mounting flage, gave it about another half turn to make it tight, and she was good to go

I'd ride down to the local hardware store and pick up a couple of them; it'll be much easier than fumbling with a washer and all




Oh, and I agree, 100ft/lbs IS a little exesive for those bolts... are you positive you were looking at the right torue spec?

Speedy_McTall

Cool thanks for the info, yep that's the part I ruined,

The bolt is stuck in there pretty good, as after the brackets got bent it's no longer able to easily slide out. I'm pretty sure I'll ruin the threads while hammering it out but I'll just go buy a new one like you said at the hardware store, with a self locking nut.

Tight and then a little more huh? Sigh... I hate it when I make things harder on myself...

I was looking at the online FSM linked from this website. It's for the 1993 truck but the front suspension diagram for 4x4 shows the shock with 18ft lbs on top and 101 for the bottom. I showed my buddy so he doesn't think I'm crazy... But come to think of it as long as you have a locking nut that should work just fine for this application.

Thanks again for your helpful reply!

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't put a "crimped" lock nut or a "Stover" nut as it's called.
They are a pain to get on, and a nightmare to get out.
They are brutal to take off and always destroy the bolt.
Use what is recommended by the manufacturer. A washer, and a nut. Blue loctite if you need it. NEVER red loctite. Basically like welding it on there.

Speedy_McTall

Well, I still might have to go with a self locking nut it as my over torquing seems to have worn a grove from the lock washer into the bracket, so I don't know if a new lock washer will lay flat and work properly. Maybe I'll just use a regular nut and some blue loctite after bending the bracket back? That should be enough I would think.

Or maybe I'll use a washer + lockwasher + nut + some blue locktight then tighten gently...