Friendly debate about diff drops
#21
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I bought it from Jim Sickles. He used to own Downey Off Road. He has some stuff in his warehouse and I bought from him after he went out of business.
I actually bought a couple of things from him. I got mega travel ball, joints, rear HD coils and some other stuff.
I think that my custom truss's I am building will work, there for I won't be using the Downey truss. If I can get them to fit, the Downey truss will just be sitting on the shelf. If you interested in it, let me know.
I actually bought a couple of things from him. I got mega travel ball, joints, rear HD coils and some other stuff.
I think that my custom truss's I am building will work, there for I won't be using the Downey truss. If I can get them to fit, the Downey truss will just be sitting on the shelf. If you interested in it, let me know.
#22
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It will once you drop the front of the diff. Your just rotating the back half of the diff. So the change is very minimal. That is why I am building a custom housing for the front diff. I think that I can drop the front of the diff about 1/2 to 1" down inside the front cross member but still keep the diff up high enough as to still be above the bottom of the bar.
#24
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Spacers are already back out. I would be willing to put them back in to prove my point if you guys really want me too. I know it is alot to ask of someone to take my word for it and I should have set the camera on something in the first place, hind sight is 20/20. I would also be willing to give this diff drop away for free and even cover the shipping myself if someone would promise to use them to better the info in this thread. Ian, You want them? I will get the correct length bolts for you.
Again the main factor here is having auto or manual hubs. In my case the CV's are only going to be turning when the hubs are locked in.
Also like 85Toyman says, all you are really doing is tilting the diff, dropping the snout and because the the axles are on the opposite end, the effect is minimal IN MY OPINION. I think the pics do show the angles are less severe with the drop spacers, just not as much as I was expecting.
Again, all I am saying is that in MY CASE the benifits do not out weight the drawbacks and I have decided to take my chances on eating CV's.
Again the main factor here is having auto or manual hubs. In my case the CV's are only going to be turning when the hubs are locked in.
Also like 85Toyman says, all you are really doing is tilting the diff, dropping the snout and because the the axles are on the opposite end, the effect is minimal IN MY OPINION. I think the pics do show the angles are less severe with the drop spacers, just not as much as I was expecting.
Again, all I am saying is that in MY CASE the benifits do not out weight the drawbacks and I have decided to take my chances on eating CV's.
Last edited by yotarob2005; 01-05-2011 at 10:19 AM.
#26
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Thanks for the compliments, I have the rear quarter and tail gate fixed, but not painted. I don't exactly have a paint both, so I am going to wait for spring to paint, maybe even summer. I snagged a spare set of doors to make half doors and I want to get them done so I can paint everything all at once.
#27
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Glad to hear you were able to get her fixed. I know that while we like to go off roading, it hurts to damage the vehicle that we put so much sweat blood and tear into.
#28
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AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! ................. hahahahaha. Jk, I'll figure it out. Yeah, i can do that. I will be sending you a PM soon, too, Rob.
Sorry, brudda, I still haven't bought the shocks. When I post on here, that's around the entire time I've been on line, lol. Actually, I AM still trying to find a killer deal, but at this point, WHATTTTTEVERRRRRRRRR! lol. Someone offered me some Skyjacker shocks and stabilizer for the front, but then renigged, lol.. Oh well. That seems to happen to me quite a bit.
I might be doing the entire project next week, including sway bar drop. Sound good? lol.
Sorry, brudda, I still haven't bought the shocks. When I post on here, that's around the entire time I've been on line, lol. Actually, I AM still trying to find a killer deal, but at this point, WHATTTTTEVERRRRRRRRR! lol. Someone offered me some Skyjacker shocks and stabilizer for the front, but then renigged, lol.. Oh well. That seems to happen to me quite a bit.
I might be doing the entire project next week, including sway bar drop. Sound good? lol.
#29
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OK, FINE, STOP YELLING AT ME! hahaha.... Jk, but actually, ...I ordered them, the shocks.
Rockyroadoutfitters.com, OMEmu Set up it will be, lol.
So, thanks for the push, homie! lol.
I'll let you know about the sway drop kit and when I'm doing all this in my thread, etc., k?
Have a good'n!
Mark
Rockyroadoutfitters.com, OMEmu Set up it will be, lol.
So, thanks for the push, homie! lol.
I'll let you know about the sway drop kit and when I'm doing all this in my thread, etc., k?
Have a good'n!
Mark
#31
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I'm sure, ...my buddy has em on his 93, ....NICE ride. And, actually, he's not done ANY of the stuff I'm doing. He just added em to his rig as is(280K) and it rides much better, I can attest. I rode on some billy's, too, and they're nice, but a bit more firm and bouncy, whereas the OME's seemed to gradually return better and drop into the dips a bit quicker.
Diff Drop kit discussion petered out, eh? lol.
Take care, Rob
Diff Drop kit discussion petered out, eh? lol.
Take care, Rob
#32
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IDK about the diff drop conversation, I am still hoping to get some more opinions, but not because I am still on the fence, but because I want the next person who is trying ot decide to be able to find this thread and make a decision that fits them.
#33
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Oh, I hear ya, and I PROMISE, I'M VERY grateful for all that work you did, etc., then sharing it! It helped me to decide for now that I'll probably be fine with my needs without it. Very cool idea to post a threader on it, Rob. Thanks, much.
Hey, .....wanna fly over and help me install all this stuff? hahaha. I know, I know....it's not "drive over for the afternoon" type distance, lol.
Any idea where I can get one of those Idler arm braces?
Hey, .....wanna fly over and help me install all this stuff? hahaha. I know, I know....it's not "drive over for the afternoon" type distance, lol.
Any idea where I can get one of those Idler arm braces?
#34
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Depends on the vehicle, suspension setup and what type of driving you do most. There is not one all inclusive definitive answer.
On my 86-95 IFS, I've never bothered. Post 96 I've always added one. Got one on my 08 Tundra now with 3" lift. It helps with my CV angles hopping curbs at the mall.
:wabbit2:
On my 86-95 IFS, I've never bothered. Post 96 I've always added one. Got one on my 08 Tundra now with 3" lift. It helps with my CV angles hopping curbs at the mall.
:wabbit2:
Tacomas and newer, you lift them a small amount, and the CV angles are greatly affected.
86-95 setups, you can get away with a lot more lift without greatly changing the CV angles.
#35
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Good to know, and MANNNNNNNNN, I'M SO ANXIOUS TO GET OUT THERE TO THE HOT SPRINGS!
Hey, Joe, .....is that you're video at Pismo Jamboree with the cameras under the tacoma hauling and getting air? I figured not, bcuz you'd post a vid, I'd assume, lol.
Hope you're well, Brudda,
Mark
PS>Yes, Wabbit is 'da man', regarding this stuff, lol.
#36
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i just recently installed a 2" bilstein suspension lift and it came with diff drop bolts and spacers but chose not to install them since our coil spring compressors gave us enough hassle as it was. is it a good idea to do the diff drop with just a 2" lift? well 2.5" on front
#37
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Ok, here is a little different side. My truck is a 91 with 1.5" BJ spacers and the stock CV's, locking hubs.
1. I don't see how you ran 2" and with full droop don't bind the CV's
2. uh, I didn't really think this post out, back to #1
when I installed mine I jacked the front end frame up and checked for bind. I had it at full droop with the toyota CV's. I added homemade spacers and it won't bind now. I don't really worry about the diff getting hurt, but I don't continually rock crawl either. What about SFA diffs? I am thinking about pulling the CV's apart and die grinding the edge of the 'cup' on the tulip side (where I think the binding is occuring) to a sort of small chamfer and seeing if that keeps it from binding at full droop. I also don't think modifying the droop stops is that productive, just get smaller BJ spacers.
On that thought, I'm pretty sure that the BJ spacers by themselves give the front susp. a little more leverage over the torsion bars (of course some actual engineers are 'pretty sure' of this too!) do you think there is a bigger difference with the 2" ones over the 1.5"?
1. I don't see how you ran 2" and with full droop don't bind the CV's
2. uh, I didn't really think this post out, back to #1
when I installed mine I jacked the front end frame up and checked for bind. I had it at full droop with the toyota CV's. I added homemade spacers and it won't bind now. I don't really worry about the diff getting hurt, but I don't continually rock crawl either. What about SFA diffs? I am thinking about pulling the CV's apart and die grinding the edge of the 'cup' on the tulip side (where I think the binding is occuring) to a sort of small chamfer and seeing if that keeps it from binding at full droop. I also don't think modifying the droop stops is that productive, just get smaller BJ spacers.
On that thought, I'm pretty sure that the BJ spacers by themselves give the front susp. a little more leverage over the torsion bars (of course some actual engineers are 'pretty sure' of this too!) do you think there is a bigger difference with the 2" ones over the 1.5"?
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