Flat bottom - auto and IFS
12-23-2007, 08:23 AM
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Flat bottom - auto and IFS
Searches here and at pirate and google don't seem to have the answer... (of course I probably just didn't use the right terms)
Anyone have some thoughts as to what would be involved in getting my still ifs'd and automatic tranny'd 4runner to have a mostly flat bottom - at least in that area I always get hung up on - along the center section.
Obviously, body lift will be needed, eyeballing it - looks like the gas tank needs to go up ~3", tranny/tcase up ~ 1.5".
If I went with the 4crawler 2" drivetrain lift, 3" body lift (I like that extra inch - makes servicing everything so much better), which will allow the gas tank to lift the needed 3", obviously some custom xmembers and skidplates would be required...
What am I missing? Seems a little too easy
Anyone have some thoughts as to what would be involved in getting my still ifs'd and automatic tranny'd 4runner to have a mostly flat bottom - at least in that area I always get hung up on - along the center section.
Obviously, body lift will be needed, eyeballing it - looks like the gas tank needs to go up ~3", tranny/tcase up ~ 1.5".
If I went with the 4crawler 2" drivetrain lift, 3" body lift (I like that extra inch - makes servicing everything so much better), which will allow the gas tank to lift the needed 3", obviously some custom xmembers and skidplates would be required...
What am I missing? Seems a little too easy
12-23-2007, 10:42 AM
#2
though not IFS, fillsrunner thread will give you some ideas. I think it is a good read.
12-23-2007, 12:42 PM
#3
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Getting the tranny and tcase up and flat IS that easy.
As for the gas tank, it requires quite a bit of work to redo the mounts. Nobody makes a kit for this part I'm aware of.
As for the gas tank, it requires quite a bit of work to redo the mounts. Nobody makes a kit for this part I'm aware of.
12-23-2007, 04:03 PM
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Eyeballed filsrunner thread before I posted - of course it doesn't so much apply with a 3.4 and R150F transmission..
Gas tank is among the least of my worries - really not that hard to lift by the looks of it. However with most of the SFA guys clocking the drivetrain etc - to do this - seemed a little too easy...
Gas tank is among the least of my worries - really not that hard to lift by the looks of it. However with most of the SFA guys clocking the drivetrain etc - to do this - seemed a little too easy...
12-25-2007, 04:56 PM
#5
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Eyeballed filsrunner thread before I posted - of course it doesn't so much apply with a 3.4 and R150F transmission..
Gas tank is among the least of my worries - really not that hard to lift by the looks of it. However with most of the SFA guys clocking the drivetrain etc - to do this - seemed a little too easy...
Gas tank is among the least of my worries - really not that hard to lift by the looks of it. However with most of the SFA guys clocking the drivetrain etc - to do this - seemed a little too easy...
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12-25-2007, 05:59 PM
#8
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It is exactly that easy. Lift the body, then lift the drivetrain. You'll have an almost fully flat belly.
It is simply the very best way to lift an IFS truck. Suspension lifts are garbage for these trucks. Body/drivetrain is simply the best possible way to do it.
It is simply the very best way to lift an IFS truck. Suspension lifts are garbage for these trucks. Body/drivetrain is simply the best possible way to do it.
12-25-2007, 06:03 PM
#9
The following hull types are variations of planing and displacement hulls.
Flat Bottom - Flat bottom boats are typically small open boats such as john-boats. Flat bottomed boats can easily get "on plane" or ride on top of the water at high speeds. Flat bottom boats are typically intended for use on calm waters such as ponds, small lakes, and slow rivers because they do not handle well in choppy or rough water, especially at planing speeds. Flat bottomed boats are not very stable, caution should be used when moving about.
Round Bottom - Round bottom boats almost "glide" through the water. Because round bottomed boats are very efficient at moving through water, most cruising sail and power boats have rounded hulls. Typically, round hulled boats move at slow speeds. Most boats with this hull type will have a keel, chines, or stabilizers, as the round form tends to roll with the waves--and tends to make everyone sea sick during rough weather.
Deep-V hull - "V-hulls" are designed to operate at high speeds and to "cut" through rough water, which provides a smoother ride than flat-bottomed or round hull boats. V-hulls are not as efficient as flat or round bottomed boats, and need larger engines to move at similar speeds. The vast majority of the boats sold today have a variety of the v-hull.
Cathedral hull - Cathedral or multi-hulls, are two or more hulls attached closely together. This combination of hulls allows for much more stability than what is found in other hull forms.
The air pocket that is formed between the hulls may also provide lift, helping the boat get on plane more easily and increasing efficiency.
The air pocket that is formed between the hulls may also provide lift, helping the boat get on plane more easily and increasing efficiency.
Tunnel Hulls - When you see a catamaran, you are looking at a tunnel hull. Hulls are essentially two deep-v hulls joined by a platform/cockpit area. Tunnel hulls are gaining in popularity, as they offer many of the benefits of other hull designs, such as stability, speed, and roominess with few of the drawbacks. Can operate in virtually any seas, and tends to ride better than mono-hull boats.
Last edited by MudHippy; 12-26-2007 at 12:24 PM.
12-26-2007, 07:24 AM
#12
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A new bumper will help with that.
Again, yes.
What you have described (3" body, 2" DTL) will certainly get you a nearly flat belly. You will need either a custom crossmember, or better yet, just order one from budbuilt. Tell them you have a 2" Drivetrain lift, and they will hook you up.
Again, yes.
What you have described (3" body, 2" DTL) will certainly get you a nearly flat belly. You will need either a custom crossmember, or better yet, just order one from budbuilt. Tell them you have a 2" Drivetrain lift, and they will hook you up.
12-26-2007, 09:38 AM
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That trucks long since deceased (rebuild @ https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-back-126003/ ) - old picture, but that hole & log will get me again this year I'm sure...
I have taken a good long hard look at the budbuilt crossmembers - But I'm thinking I'd rather DIY my own; something more along the lines of a cross between the "little" budbuilt and fillsrunner's monster...
I have taken a good long hard look at the budbuilt crossmembers - But I'm thinking I'd rather DIY my own; something more along the lines of a cross between the "little" budbuilt and fillsrunner's monster...
12-26-2007, 10:19 AM
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they never stand a chance.........
back on topic: great info here about the DT lift. i had read in another thread (which i can't find at the moment) that there can be some issues with lifting the 3.0 auto DT.....any validity in this?
not trying to hijack, just trying to contribute.
back on topic: great info here about the DT lift. i had read in another thread (which i can't find at the moment) that there can be some issues with lifting the 3.0 auto DT.....any validity in this?
not trying to hijack, just trying to contribute.
12-26-2007, 10:51 AM
#15
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Unknown at this time.
Rocket was talking about issues with a drivetrain lift for a 3.0. However, it just doesn't make sense to me. The ONLY thing that should change is the driveline angles.
For any considering this, just email Roger Brown (4Crawler) He is the authority on BL's and DTL's. He will be able to answer any questions and concerns, and perhaps give you the reason that others have issues with the 3.0 DTL.
He also has them for sale, and I HIGHLY recommend that you purchase your lifts from him. You are guaranteed to be satisfied.
Rocket was talking about issues with a drivetrain lift for a 3.0. However, it just doesn't make sense to me. The ONLY thing that should change is the driveline angles.
For any considering this, just email Roger Brown (4Crawler) He is the authority on BL's and DTL's. He will be able to answer any questions and concerns, and perhaps give you the reason that others have issues with the 3.0 DTL.
He also has them for sale, and I HIGHLY recommend that you purchase your lifts from him. You are guaranteed to be satisfied.
12-26-2007, 11:01 AM
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ah you know the exact thread i was speaking of.....i think..haha. i knew you were in on it and rocket was the other i was thinking of. i guess i'll talk to roger then. thanks ike!
12-26-2007, 12:59 PM
#17
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It was my thread.
I still maintain that it is the best possible way to lift early IFS trucks, and will unless someone has exact issues that happen with the 3.0.
I still maintain that it is the best possible way to lift early IFS trucks, and will unless someone has exact issues that happen with the 3.0.
12-26-2007, 02:22 PM
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well i'd love to be the test dummy but it ain't happening any time soon. so i'll wait for someone else to do it first. meanwhile i'll stay in college.
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