Yes, they are side specific. If you read through the thread, you will see I swapped them out & they back all the way off.....so I put them back the way I had them.

I've about determined I just need to replace the adjusters, but don't want to spend the $$$ if something else is causing the problem.

 

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Is the adjuster lock touching the adjuster gear? And the side you have pictured is the right side correct? The R stamped on the adjuster lock states which side it goes on. The right side would be the passenger side.

In your pictures the adjuster is deff way to far out......so It is a definitely a problem with the adjustment.

Are you sure the shoes are your your truck? I would take the shoes off and place them in side of the drum and make sure they are sitting properly inside the drum.

just my .02

 

Yep, correct side. I'm certain I have the right brake shoes.

 

never had this problem .. but this may help .

maybe the drums are worn.
Bell crank adjusting bolt ..
here some pics ..Good luck

 

Thanks, I have the FSM; I've checked everything I can think of. I think it's simply worn adjusters.

 

sorry to bring up the old thread, but I did the passenger side a year ago, now Its time to do the front, and why not do the other side too. I cant remember for some reason, but I know there is the outer seal, but that inner big tube like seal, where does that guy go? I got the seal, bearing, retainer and c clip, but where does this guy go

 

I summarize some of my axle repairs on my web site(link below). I even made my own bearing press for those half shafts using scrap lumber with a hole drilled threw it for the axle and a bottle jack. Very dangerous, went through several design iterations before making a smaller one whose 12 inch think wood members would not snap in half do to the larger internal bending moments associated with a longer span (especially in the middle). Any way it sucked alot because the fact a bearing had spin escaped me for the longest time. The eccentricity of the axle due to the spent bearing allowed the lips around break drum to ride on the back plate as a plain surface bearing ( designing this fail safe was very good idea, Toyota). Another consequence of axle eccentricity allowed the brake cylinder to leak by mucking with fine brake cylinder travel requirements. A combination of the friction and oil caused it to smoke. I changed the cylinder three times! and still was driving with this smoke lol. Then i changed ALL break hardware including springs, adjusters drums, callipers, pins and so on. AND it was STILL leaking! I finally noticed the axle was a bit eccentric(off Center) i looked at a diagram on the axle in the factory manual and determined it was the bearing, and sure enough when i finally took the axle out there was a crap bearing with loose balls that shifted to on one side leaving less on the other. I changed the bearings collars, and seals on both sides using my make shift bearing press (something i could imagine at a mechanics garage in a third world country).


http://www.craigginsberg.com/safari-battle-cruizer/

 

On my drums there are threaded holes, if you put the right screws in both holes in there i think it was a M8 with 1.25mm pitch. You can pull off the drum with nothing but a socket wrench by turning one then the other a couple of turns at a time.

Get a drum brake hard ware kit. look on ebay. You can replace ALL the hardware for like 20 bucks.

Also i suggest you put the springs on the shoes FIRST then use the shoes for leverage as you pry open the spring as you place it on the vehicle. I found this to be the easiest way.

 

Sorry man I don't have any advice on why your brakes are sticking, but just for the future, Toyota drums have two 10x125 threaded holes 180 out from each other that you can thread bolts down in to remove the drums.

Good luck

 

I've determined the e-brake cable wasn't adjusted enough to allow the bottom of the shoes to touch, so the adjuster was trying to take up ALL the braking slack.

Anyone have any advice for tightening the e-brake adjustment? It just spins...no way to hold it still to get the nut tighter (doesn't look like it's moved since 1994!)?

 

i do. You simply pull the ebrake lever like a hundred times. This is how the brake is tightened. each time you pull the ebrake that adjuster snaps like one tooth over. Another way is to just use a screw driver to turn the adjuster as you pry that little ratcheting arm away from it then put on the drum then pull the ebrake lever allot to allow a fine adjustment. I recommend you get a brake hardware kit with new adjusters. i spent like 20 bucks on my kit via ebay

 

You misunderstood my question....I'm trying to adjust the e-brake CABLE under the passenger side cab....

 

Oo.. um a pic would help. I think i did that too but it was so long ago and it may not be the same on your truck. WHat model is it?

 

Huh...it's all in my sig line, but none of the sig lines are showing up today....weird.

Stock '94 DLX XtraCab 4x4 5 spd, Fully Rebuilt 3VZE, 17" 2006 Alloy Wheels, 257k miles, AISIN Manual Hub Swap