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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Fan Clutch?

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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 03:28 PM
  #21  
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autohausaz and carpartsdiscount seem to have different part numbers. ???????
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 05:38 PM
  #22  
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All I can say is the part I ordered from carpartsdiscount.com came in an Aisin box, fit perfectly, and cured my overheating problem.
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 06:17 PM
  #23  
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I was taught that a cold fan clutch shouldn't spin more than two revolutions before stopping with the engine off and not even 1 with a hot clutch. Total free spinning is definitely not good and neither is totally locked up.
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 06:35 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by snobdds
I thought the price for the clutch on autohausaz was good, but the price on carpartdiscount was even better. Good find.

I agree that cheap e-fans are a bad idea on our motors. I will stick with the proven clutch type fan anyday.
I went with a 16" spal fan and spal 185 degree relay kit on a custom aluminum fan shroud I built mounted to a v6 radiator on my 22re. No problems. Fan hardly comes on unless I'm idling alot in the summer,and even then it doesn't run for a long time.
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Old May 26, 2011 | 10:53 AM
  #25  
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I am working on my Fan Clutch now, also a 22RE. Mine will only turn back and forth a little bit and will not spin at all. So I opened it up to replace the fluid. I figured it would spin at that point but the movement has not changed. Could mine be trashed beyond repair? I have an Aisan so I wanted to repair it.
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Old May 26, 2011 | 11:05 AM
  #26  
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I have read that the fan will stay kind of locked up when it is cold and has sat for a while until you start up the truck and it spins for a second to disperse the oil. Then it spins with little resistance. I just bought a Hayes one from advance auto and when I first start up I hear it blow really hard like when it was locked up but after a couple seconds it quiets down and spins without much resistance. Then it locks up again when the engine gets hot enough. As long as your o-ring was still in tact and not leaking all your new fluid and the mating surfaces looked clean, you should be good to go.
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Old May 26, 2011 | 01:33 PM
  #27  
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Okay, so I went out and worked the fan clutch back and forth until it broke loose. I think it had just sat too long and got stuck. Then I cleaned out both halves with brake cleaner, removing all the silicone.

All seems good, but when I spin the half with the mounting flange it doesn't spin smoothly. Is that just how they are? It basically has some drag and slightly "chatters" as I rotate it.

I am going to buy new silicone fluid for it, or replace it if anyone here thinks my fan clutch sounds shot.

Thanks everyone! And sorry if I am hijacking the thread, but I figure this is all in-line with the original question.
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Old May 26, 2011 | 02:10 PM
  #28  
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you shouldn't be cleaning the insides with brake cleaner... it'll get trapped in there and ruin the new fluid

just give it time and let that stuff drain out.... it'll take more than a day to do so according to what I read
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Old May 26, 2011 | 03:17 PM
  #29  
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Yeah, that makes good sense. You can't get ALL the silicone out and I was thinking the same thing about the brake cleaner would contaminate the old and new...

I cleaned the parts with brake cleaner because this site said to: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/FanClutch/FanClutch.htm


In the end I have orderded a new Aisin fan clutch from www.autohausaz.com. At $65 it seemed like a better deal then spending $45 on new fluid to put in old parts. Not to mention I can't get the gasket back in its track.
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Old May 26, 2011 | 04:21 PM
  #30  
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cool.... thanks for the part numbers from that site too

I'll probably have to replace mine eventually.... the fan still works OK
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Old May 26, 2011 | 11:13 PM
  #31  
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ok, it looks like aisin does sell direct to aftermarket... the problem is, places like rock auto doesn't carry the aisin brand... so when I do need to replace my fan clutch, where is a good place online to get aisin parts from?
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Old May 27, 2011 | 05:21 AM
  #32  
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With the engine OFF and the engine COLD, you should be able to spin it with little to no resistance. With the engine OFF, but the engine at operating temperature, it should give you some resistance when you spin it. If it doesnt do that, I would replace it. Im not sure what kind of fluid goes in them but it apparently gets thicker as the engine gets warmer causing it to engage the fan blades more.
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Old May 27, 2011 | 06:25 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by The MAN
ok, it looks like aisin does sell direct to aftermarket... the problem is, places like rock auto doesn't carry the aisin brand... so when I do need to replace my fan clutch, where is a good place online to get aisin parts from?
Have you looked on page 1 of this thread? There are a couple of links there
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Old May 27, 2011 | 06:37 AM
  #34  
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autopartswarehouse.com sells Aisin. It may have already been mentioned(Too lazy to go back and look)
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Old May 27, 2011 | 08:58 AM
  #35  
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sorry, didn't notice
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 08:29 AM
  #36  
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What's this about rebuilding a fan clutch? I've never even heard of that. What type of fluid do they use?
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 08:32 AM
  #37  
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I'm pretty sure 4crawler has a write up on it in his website. Its silicone oil that you buy from the dealership. It's kind of pricey but it is Toyota quality.
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 08:50 AM
  #38  
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In my case, the fan is always engaged. Anyone know what might cause that, and if the oil change maneuver might help?

Edit: just went out to look if it had leaked any oil, and got it to spin. Guess it was just jammed up somehow?

Last edited by ChzSoda; Oct 13, 2011 at 08:57 AM.
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 06:16 PM
  #39  
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Im debating on whether to replace my fan clutch aswell. I just replaced the fan pulley bracket because the bearing inside it broke. now that the bracket is detached from the fan im noticing quite a bit of resistance needed to rotate it the fan , 5 to 10 pounds id say. Any insight on this?
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 10:49 PM
  #40  
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Lots of misinformation about the fan clutch getting tossed around ....

It will have a good bit of resistance when cold, but loosen up after a couple of minutes driving. It SHOULD have little resistance at normal temps until the heat comes up, WHEN IT WILL ENGAGE AS IT WAS DESIGNED TO. Anything else means it has or will fail soon.

Double check the bearings in the fan pulley assembly while you're in there. They can wear over time & disintegrate. I lay mine on it's face & pour a tiny bit of motor oil into the bearing crack whenever I have it out for any reason. It takes an hour or two for it to soak in.

Still going smooth at 270,000 miles~

Last edited by TNRabbit; Apr 5, 2012 at 10:51 PM.
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