Has anyone ran the head engine builder offers? I am referring to the street RV head with a 261C cam.
thanks

 

I'll let you know when I get my DD motor back together. Folks have reported good results with a noticeable increase in power.

 

hmmm, I am going to be ordering that soon.

 

i run that combo, wish i would of had it ported/polish while ted had it. I have a lot of other mods done but it is faster than a stock 22re for sure.

 

I've got one too, I really like it. I have a hard time comparing it because I had a cracked head and a head gasket leak when I got it, but it pulls hard. The head is a nice casting. I wich I would have gotten a port and polish when I got it. Ted is great to work with.

 

I just took the plunge...ouch...and ordered the StreetRV head with the 261C. Said it would ship Tuesday and takes 3-5 days to get here. Once that happens, I just need to install it on my new shortblock and swap out the old engine with the new one. I will let you know what I think once it is installed. I'll be a little biased since I am getting a whole new engine and performance heads.

 

Same here, standard issue Engnbldr Street/RV + 261C, nothing special done. My truck is a total hoot to drive, definitely pulls better than stock. My wife said the other day it seems like a rally car (probably mostly the sound). That made me happy.

 

Ya, let me know the results. That will help out in doing my rebuild.
thanks

 

did you guys get the head on yet? Ill be starting to build my engine soon and i need some suggestions.

 

what do you want to know?

some dyno #'s (couple down from the top)

http://www.22rte-trucks.com/simplema...hp?topic=128.0

how much money do you want to spend?

 

I want to know if anybody has used the engine builder head. they claim it will make like 20 more HP but they wont give me dyno results or a flow chart for the head. I know i will be spending quite a bit but i dont really want to go with a turbo. The mods i was thinking about were maybe that head, a cam, higher compression and i have a header with a flowmaster.

 

Talk to Ted or Tod.
If you go with a cam, and have headers, remember to mention that to Tod. Some grinds actually work LESS efficiently with a header due to over-scavenging.
15-20hp (crank) should be doable assuming everything is in top condition; with oversized valves, an appropriate cam, and appropriate exhaust. No, I do not have a dyno to back that up.
My rebuild is proceeding at dial-up speed. Up to my armpits in alligators! I will let you know when I know.

 

i have the head w/ 261c cam , lce header/ 4.88's, flowmaster,TB and a few other goodies (running 2 clicks richer) and it runs a lot harder than stock i smoke my buddies stock 22re (just headr/exhaust and 31's) off the line and on the freeway

you'll need a bigger TB and clean your injectors and probably adjust the AFM if you got the $$ have tod port it for some extra ponies while you got the head off.

 

I'm looking at buying the Engnbldr head with a cam for my 22RE rebuild. Is the 261C the best cam for upping the performance of the 22RE without aggravating the ECU and setting off the Check Engine Light? I'll end up with the LC Engineering header and exhaust, but probably a few months after the rebuild. My best result would be a long lasting engine set-up with more HP than stock, but definitely not causing computer/CEL trouble.

 

no you wont have any CEL problems with that set up ( i run it with no problems)

 

If you want to run headers eventually, talk to Ted or Tod about the cam grind. In some situations headers improve scavenging - which is not necessarily good, it can over scavenge if the cam also has more overlap. FWIW, the stock manifold is actually extremely efficient.

 

i have there 268 cam its a good cam but how do you go 2 clicks richer??? i really would like to know this one!!

 

"How" meaning how to physically add two clicks richer or
"How" meaning why the cam allows two clicks to be added?

For the former - two clicks is two notches on the AFM flapper door on the 22RE engines.

Do a search but the short answer is
-- cut open the top of the AFM
-- note the way the spring restricts the flapper
-- mark the start notch
-- move the lock bar by two notches

IMHO use the Vf to verify before moving two clicks

 

yea everybodys diff. so at least check out your plugs and see how your doing i was running a lil lean (3,000-5000ft elv.)

afm mod info here
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/minutemods/afm/