Electronics...BLAH!!
05-22-2006, 04:27 PM
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Electronics...BLAH!!
I was driving down the road the other day and my truck was mis-firing a little, but then all of a sudden it died without warning. When i got it towed back to the house there was no spark. I checked the ignitor, coil, distributor ect. and everything seems good. All the grounds are how they should be and all the fuses are good. I have no idea what the problem is and why i'm not getting any spark!
05-22-2006, 06:17 PM
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have you tried pulling the codes if there are any? something else to think about, my dad's buddy has a 92 mazda pickup and he was rolling down the highway when all of the sudden it started missfiring and he limped into town on two cylinders after replacing distributor cap, rotor, plug wires and headaching over it he took it to the dealership and found out it was the computer. he baby dolls this truck and it has to be the cleanest old mazda 4x4 i've seen so why the computer went bad? a new computer and he was as good as new.
05-22-2006, 07:38 PM
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i thought about it being the computer, but there aren't any check engine lights on when i turn the key. but tomorrow i will be towing it to town to pull codes and see whats goin on.
05-23-2006, 03:56 PM
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I had the same exact problem after putting the runner back together. Assuming that when put your ignition key switch to "ON" you get no CEL. This is not correct, it should light up constant. It is probably the MAF sensor. Unplug the sensor and turn the ignition key to "ON" and see if you get your CEL. If it lights up ( it should blink rapidly) then it's your MAF sensor may have malfunctioned. keep your ignition to "ON" and plug your MAF sensor back in and see if the CEL goes away (it shouldn't if it's correct), if it does, then definitely the contacts inside the sensor are bad.
When this happened to me, I removed the sealed cover and found some of the contacts were shorted where they were soldered to the pc board and my fuel pump contacts got crossed somehow. After isolating the shorted contacts and fixing the fuel pump contacts, everything worked fine, CEL on when ignition to "on" and she gave spark and started right up.
I only found this problem because I thought it was the ECM and traced every wire for continuity and found everything good which led to the MAF sensor.
good luck and hope this fixes it!
joe
When this happened to me, I removed the sealed cover and found some of the contacts were shorted where they were soldered to the pc board and my fuel pump contacts got crossed somehow. After isolating the shorted contacts and fixing the fuel pump contacts, everything worked fine, CEL on when ignition to "on" and she gave spark and started right up.
I only found this problem because I thought it was the ECM and traced every wire for continuity and found everything good which led to the MAF sensor.
good luck and hope this fixes it!
joe
Last edited by 1fly4runner; 05-23-2006 at 03:59 PM.
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05-23-2006, 04:15 PM
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well i checked the MAF sensor and it wiggled itself loose. after puting it back on it started right up. but after setting the timing again with the light, it wouldn't start. even with moving it around so im guessin the MAF sensor is goin bad. ill have to check tomorrow
Last edited by 95RunnerSR5; 05-23-2006 at 05:00 PM.
05-24-2006, 04:32 PM
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sounds like the connector's have gone bad. Also, it should be pretty easy to open. If not, the two left most contacts may be misaligned with the moving arm (that arm is connected to the moveable flap). If you have the FSM, use it to check the resistances on the terminals. You should have an "infinite" reading across the two left most contacts with the door closed and then you should have a resistance value other than zero once the door is slightly opened. Usually, if this is wrong, you have trouble opening the door.
Also, if you have intermittent startup, a missing lug will do it here as all the "inputs" the ECM looks for to start originate in conjunction with the MAF.
but making sure the resistance values are correct with what the FSM says will definately ensure a correctly working MAF.
Also, if you have intermittent startup, a missing lug will do it here as all the "inputs" the ECM looks for to start originate in conjunction with the MAF.
but making sure the resistance values are correct with what the FSM says will definately ensure a correctly working MAF.
05-24-2006, 04:36 PM
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i checked it and it had 0 ohms of resistance on every tab the book said to check. i ordered a new MAF today from o'reilley's $162 best price, everyone else wanted $185 or so. also the plug from the wiring harness that goes into it, i only have six of the female connectors. is this normal or do you guys have all seven?
