Easiest way to install fron LockRight...
09-02-2012, 03:57 PM
#1
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Easiest way to install fron LockRight...
I have a '93 p/u I'm seriously considering putting a LockRight I have laying around into. Will have to do it in the next few days...
The problem isn't putting in the locker, as much as removing and reinstalling that damn front 3rd member. Actually getting it down isn't usually so bad (after providing sufficient profanity to the 20 t/o old bolts), it's getting it back in that I loathe... it's heavy, never balances right on a jack, I'm working alone...
Anyhow - is it at all possible to do this w/o completely removing it?
Truck is stock (w/ 33s so there's *some* room), no BJ spacers, lift etc.
Turns out I have to replace the rotors anyway so that means the hubs are coming apart... so maybe at the same time I could pull the CVs (and press out the half shaft studs), then there's room to pop out the half shafts?
Of course the cover has to come off.. .and it's blocked by the crossmember... but I guess I could push that down/out of the way too...
Suggestions?> Is it worth it?
The problem isn't putting in the locker, as much as removing and reinstalling that damn front 3rd member. Actually getting it down isn't usually so bad (after providing sufficient profanity to the 20 t/o old bolts), it's getting it back in that I loathe... it's heavy, never balances right on a jack, I'm working alone...
Anyhow - is it at all possible to do this w/o completely removing it?
Truck is stock (w/ 33s so there's *some* room), no BJ spacers, lift etc.
Turns out I have to replace the rotors anyway so that means the hubs are coming apart... so maybe at the same time I could pull the CVs (and press out the half shaft studs), then there's room to pop out the half shafts?
Of course the cover has to come off.. .and it's blocked by the crossmember... but I guess I could push that down/out of the way too...
Suggestions?> Is it worth it?
09-02-2012, 04:52 PM
#3
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You could yes, but I think it would be easier to just pull the diff.
If you hammer out the studs where the CV attach, you can drop the diff without pulling the CVs completely. Either grind the splines off before you put them back in (make sure to use loctite) or replace them with grade 8 bolts.
If you hammer out the studs where the CV attach, you can drop the diff without pulling the CVs completely. Either grind the splines off before you put them back in (make sure to use loctite) or replace them with grade 8 bolts.
09-02-2012, 06:29 PM
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Yeah I've ditched the studs on several previous differentials, it'll be the first thing to do when I dig into this one as well. Its makes it sooo much easier to remove either the differential or the CVs later.
One note on this - 1/2" fine thread bolts are ideal for this. the extra scale in compression over standard coarse thread (what you'll get by default at any hardware store) helps ensure they stay tight.
One note on this - 1/2" fine thread bolts are ideal for this. the extra scale in compression over standard coarse thread (what you'll get by default at any hardware store) helps ensure they stay tight.
09-04-2012, 09:54 AM
#5
^so does loctite 
i would drop the diff personally. getting an IFS diff back into its place isn't THAT hard. i've done it 4x by myself and find it gets easier each time. i like to balance it on a floor jack with my hands, and use my leg to pump the handle and raise it - beats the dead lift that's for sure!
sounds more like you really don't want that front locker installed.....
i would drop the diff personally. getting an IFS diff back into its place isn't THAT hard. i've done it 4x by myself and find it gets easier each time. i like to balance it on a floor jack with my hands, and use my leg to pump the handle and raise it - beats the dead lift that's for sure!
sounds more like you really don't want that front locker installed.....
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