Nope check my build thread. I just put LC Coils on. I'm not sure what you have in the rear as of now...If you have spacers then get the LC Coils and see what it looks like then add spacers.

 

i get your point..........but you dont have a 4in bracket lift in the front?!?!?!?!?

i dont think any cruiser coils are going to help me..i was under the impression that CC's gave about 2" of lift over STOCK..(not saggy butt syndrome)..

well im already at 4in over stock..but with the heavy butt of the runner its saggin a bit...lol so i need like a 5" coil..

 

2" over stock with the LC coils? no way man. Most people see 3 to 4 inches of lift over stock with them. My truck was REALLY saggy and a month after I've put them on I'm sitting right at 5 1/4" over the before measurements.

Personally, I'd go with one of the companies that MAKE those bracket lifts. I think rough country and pro comp are about the only ones left that make the real lift kits for these trucks. I'd get a set of the pro comp 4" springs from summit and see where you're at. If you still need a spacer after that, then so be it. But go with the springs that were designed for that lift

 

^^i also started thinking about this...LOL
well..i know BJ spacers dont give more than 2" of lift (with cranked bars)..and LC coils MATCH BJ SPACERS LIFT WISE..therefore i assumed they were like 2"-3" at most..

i also want something that will flex pretty decent..and LC coils do just that..

 

Actually, with the body design of the 2nd gens, it is designed with less wheel well gap in the rear and more in the front. If you measure ride height from the frame, not the wheel wells, you'll see that LC coils and BJ spacers give you a decent bit of rake. The back sits a good couple inches higher than the front over stock. they "look" level because the wheel well gap is about the same in the front and the back, but you don't measure ride height by the wheel wells. You go by the frame.

I'd take some preliminary measurements and compare that to the stock specs for ride height. It will list it in the repair manual, as well as exactly where to measure. Add 4 inches to that (which is what the procomp springs are supposed to give) and see how far off of that measurement you actually are with your current springs. I'd be willing to bet money it isn't much different. I bet it actually "is" pretty level. Just doesn't look it because that's how the body lines were designed.

 

^a perfect, sagless 4runner

 

As of now I have LC Coils and no BJ spacers and she's really raked. Feels like I'm driving down hill all the time. (drove like 3 miles so far)... As bp4u stated I think I got about 5-5.5" from where she was to where she sits now. She was really saggy!!! BJ spacers in the future...thinking maybe 2.5" or 3" (if they go that big) and then loosen up the T bars to bring her down.

 

i think the SAFEST BJ spacer amount is 2"..

if i ever do BJ spacers on the runner..then i'll go 2" and relax the T bars way down..and then i'll be ridin like a freakin Cady

hm..i think i'll measure today and see what i get....i forgot about the bodies being different like you stated...my '86 is the same way..looks lower in the rear..but actually sits almost exactly level..

 

well guys..i got the pan and installed it today..threw some oil in it..pulled the coil wire..turned her over about 10 or 12 times to get some oil flowin through it..plugged the coil wire back up..hit the key and BOOM she started right up..and purrrrreddd like a kitten..lmfao..

ok well not exactly like a kitten..it does have a rod knockin' maybe even 2 or 3..lol

its not LOUD like my 22r was..but it's definately there..

my dad needs to get a few vehicles running and sold before we can work on it though .. so idk how long it'll be whenever it gets a place in our little "shop"..but as soon as it does..im gonna start disassembling the motor...and im gonna keep track of every little bolt with small cheapo ziploc bag type bags..and all of the wires and vacuum lines are going to be labeled......at least this is my plan right now.

first thing i needa do though is get a job and start savin some money..will probably have to have a new crank, new bearings obviously, i think the cylinder walls will be ok..at least im hoping..will probably need a new set of rods..and all the gaskets of course...

im thinking about $600-$800 right now..

 

nobody cares about my 4runner no more..!!!


lmfao..

i thought about startin it up..and drivin around my property with the rod knock..but decided against it..idk if im gonna rebuild this motor..or swap in a used one from a '89 that was flipped..

if the motor out of the '89 runs fine (which it does) and i can even drive the '89 around..although it has been flipped..it still drives just fine..just kinda crushed in everywhere lol..i believe he said it has about 130,000 miles on it..all original..pretty sure it isn't one of the 3vz with headgasket issues..so im good there..im redoing the crossover either way

my dad doesnt like the idea of swapping for this motor..as it could have problems just down the road..who knows ya know..but it would be essentially the same price if i rebuild my 3vz..as it would be to swap in a newer one..

just wantin to know what you guys think about the situation!

 

Rebuild the 3.0 or..... 3.4L swap!!!

do it..... dooooooo it!

 

I've got the 4.88's in my 91 v6, just a word of caution, anything over 70mph is impossible, I blew a hose and overheated at 75mpg because the revs are a steady 4200rpm. If I trailered it to the trails that would be another story but c'mon

 

LOL..believe me..the 3.4 swap WILL happen..but alas, i have a BUTT LOAD of research to do..and gotta save up the money..and get the parts gradually..it will HOPEFULLY start happening this time next year..or the summer of 2010..maybe 2011..lmao...never can tell what will come up..

by then the 4runner will probably be on a set of 35's with 4.88's and at least one locker..LOL

theres one vote for rebuild the 3.0..........thats enough for me..rebuild it is..noww...where to get parts....like rods..as i will likely need a set..lol..everything else i can get from engnbldr..lol

 

what size tires are you running..28's????

no way that a set of 33's with 4.88's will hit 4200 rpms at 75..lol

i dont believe it is mathematically possible..lol

 

well!?!?..lol


and i have yet to be able to work on the 4runner because i have been working on my '86 ( DANGIT!!!!!!)

but i should be getting started on it after the 1st of the year.

it's gonna take quite a bit of time to get everything taken off and labeled , but i think in the end it will definitely be worth it because it'll go a lot faster when im throwin it back together.

and if anybody knows a way to Brighten up my headlights (new bulbs, new lights all together) i'm willing to try anything because these lights SUCK.

once i get the motor out it won't take long to get it back together and mounted back in.

it's gonna be a FUUNNNN ride without any exhaust on it ..

would it be safe to run open manifolds for about 11miles going about 65 or so????

i wanna get my crossover redone and the exhaust shop is about 11 or 12 miles away, and it would be a lot faster and cheaper if i leave the stock crossover off that way we don't have to try to get it out at the shop (which i heard is a PITA!)

i dont wanna bend a valve or somethin running it like that, i mean i could trailer it there but where's the fun in that LMFAO!!!!

 

I don't know if that really would be a wise thing to do...11 miles at 65??? Donno but I know its not going to help it at all.

 

just tow it... i read the first and last page. but did u ever consider getting lifted cruiser coils. my buddy runs 2 inch lift lc coils in his third gen 4runner rear

 

Trailer it to the shop for exhaust.

And to answer your last question about rebuilding or swapping in a used motor, get the used motor if you can drive it/hear it running. It will run, and you can probably have it done over the course of a weekend if you work REALLY SLOWLY.
Another benefit of this is that you still have your original motor and you can rebuild or modify it as you desire... obviously with plans of a 3.4 swap, you probably won't want to sink much money into it, but IMO two engines are better than one.

You can brighten your headlights by running a relay from the battery to the lights, and using larger gauge wiring so that there is less voltage loss.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html
This site is FULL of good lighting information and this page gives a pretty good walk through on how and why to relay your headlights.
They also sell kits with the sometimes hard to find hardware to do a relay setup: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/p.../products.html

 

yea i'll just tow it, i don't wanna run the risk of screwing something up LOL

and i'll talk to the guy with the rolled 4runner to see about hearing it run and such....if i can get it for $500 or so then i'll swap it in and rebuild mine..or keep it for a backup motor..lol

and thanks for the lighting link Bud!!

 

thought i might revive this thread lol...one of these days, my motor rebuild thread will be joined with this one as this is going to be my "build" thread lol.

the early tacomas have a MEAN looking grille, and i seen a 2nd gen 4runner with the early tacoma grille, and it looks AMAZING..i'll post the link if i can find it.

so that would solve my lighting issue..because then i could get some H4 E-code housings and run projector HID's with some FX projectors.

not much more is happening..i'm waiting on parts mostly, get my knock sensor pigtail on tuesday for $18..then i'm gonna blow about $250 on an oil pump, water pump, timing belt, and new timing belt tensioners, plus theres a couple of sensors on the back of the lower intake that need to be replaced as well..and i'm hoping they're not expensive lol