Drivetrain Slipping Under Load
05-29-2013, 04:27 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
You haven't lift your truck recently, have you? it could be binding in the joints.
ok, I see on your other thread that you changed the trans. mount. Is the new one is higher or lower than the old one?
If that's the case then your d-shaft might be binding at the transfer case side of the d-shaft.
ok, I see on your other thread that you changed the trans. mount. Is the new one is higher or lower than the old one?
If that's the case then your d-shaft might be binding at the transfer case side of the d-shaft.
Before I drop the rear diff I'll have a friend watch the driveshaft for binding while I replicate the problem.
06-09-2013, 03:37 PM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
06-09-2013, 04:04 PM
#25
I'm betting its your clutch man. The trannys have and transfer have all metal parts. If they were to slip it would grind really loud. The only thing that could be slipping would have to be the clutch assembly. Maybe the pressure plate is weak or throwout bear is getting hung. Something in the clutch tho.
06-09-2013, 06:35 PM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
I feel like I ruled out the clutch when I couldn't replicate the problem with front wheel drive only.
I HAVE toasted the clutch a couple times lately (after this problem started) so I'll probably be putting a new clutch in it before long anyway.
I HAVE toasted the clutch a couple times lately (after this problem started) so I'll probably be putting a new clutch in it before long anyway.
06-09-2013, 07:59 PM
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
I chocked the rear wheels when I was testing with only the front wheels driving. I had that thought too, the front wheels would just climb a curb if I tried to test it that way.
06-10-2013, 04:37 PM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm not sure, that's why I started the thread. To see if there was another obvious thing everyone knew about. Since the clutch seems to not be the issue I'm guessing it's a u-joint.
I'll put I all back together as soon as the Spartan locker I ordered comes in. Maybe I can borrow my friend's drive shaft so I can rule out u-joints before resorting to replacing the clutch. I wish I had thought of doing that earlier.
I'll put I all back together as soon as the Spartan locker I ordered comes in. Maybe I can borrow my friend's drive shaft so I can rule out u-joints before resorting to replacing the clutch. I wish I had thought of doing that earlier.
06-10-2013, 04:50 PM
#31
Look at it this way.... You start with a engine, from engine you go through a clutch assembly that works off friction, from there you go through a set of gears/chains then through a steel rod into another set of gears then you your wheels.
Engine cannot slip....
Clutch looses friction and starts to slip or flywheel could have a hot spot in it giving you the jerking like slipping feel.....
Transmission cannot slip unless its automatic, standards would cling or clang and grind If something was wrong same as transfer case....
Rear end canot slip unless its clutches in place of slider gears. Or pinion/ring gear or axle gears are striped. However if it was that you'd already known from diagnosing it.
Driveshafts cannot slip either unless there have a slip yoke that's lost it's grooves. U-joints won't cause slippage however if they were bad you'd been able to tell from jerking on the shaft both horizontally or vertically. You'd also here a creeping or loping sound coming from the driveshaft upon accelerating or decelerating.
This clearly leaves the clutch. I'm no master mechanic but I know when a clutch is going bad. If your flywheel has a hot spot on it then you can receive the jerking feeling that you getting. This is caused by the flywheel have a warp in it creating a air pocket inbetween in and the clutch causing the clutch to momentarily slip when rotating over that hot spot. In return its gonna slip then jerk kinda like piping the clutch.
Do you understand what I'm trying to explain to you? If you'd like feel free to PM with your # and I'd gladly chat with ya to try into help ya.
Engine cannot slip....
Clutch looses friction and starts to slip or flywheel could have a hot spot in it giving you the jerking like slipping feel.....
Transmission cannot slip unless its automatic, standards would cling or clang and grind If something was wrong same as transfer case....
Rear end canot slip unless its clutches in place of slider gears. Or pinion/ring gear or axle gears are striped. However if it was that you'd already known from diagnosing it.
Driveshafts cannot slip either unless there have a slip yoke that's lost it's grooves. U-joints won't cause slippage however if they were bad you'd been able to tell from jerking on the shaft both horizontally or vertically. You'd also here a creeping or loping sound coming from the driveshaft upon accelerating or decelerating.
This clearly leaves the clutch. I'm no master mechanic but I know when a clutch is going bad. If your flywheel has a hot spot on it then you can receive the jerking feeling that you getting. This is caused by the flywheel have a warp in it creating a air pocket inbetween in and the clutch causing the clutch to momentarily slip when rotating over that hot spot. In return its gonna slip then jerk kinda like piping the clutch.
Do you understand what I'm trying to explain to you? If you'd like feel free to PM with your # and I'd gladly chat with ya to try into help ya.
06-10-2013, 05:05 PM
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
I appreciate the in-depth explanation about why you think it's the clutch. That really does help a lot. I don't disagree with you that it may be the clutch. I'm just confused by a couple points:
- It didn't do it with the rear drive shaft out and just the front wheels driving.
- Every time it does it, it only does it once. It seems like a hot spot would repeat as the flywheel rotated. (Unless its due to the air pocket you mentioned)
But maybe there are some loose bolts on the flywheel or something and things are shifting through their range of play.
I think I'll still swap drive shafts to rule that out before I go through the trouble of dropping the transmission.
I really do appreciate all the input from everyone. I'm not trying to be stubborn, I've just got experience with this that conflicts with the common sense answers.
- It didn't do it with the rear drive shaft out and just the front wheels driving.
- Every time it does it, it only does it once. It seems like a hot spot would repeat as the flywheel rotated. (Unless its due to the air pocket you mentioned)
But maybe there are some loose bolts on the flywheel or something and things are shifting through their range of play.
I think I'll still swap drive shafts to rule that out before I go through the trouble of dropping the transmission.
I really do appreciate all the input from everyone. I'm not trying to be stubborn, I've just got experience with this that conflicts with the common sense answers.
06-10-2013, 05:20 PM
#33
Not stubborn at all. I'm highly highly interested in finding out the exact issue. To be honest I'm subscribed. I follow you around on here just to see the next pic. And with you am Chef being out of commission the pics are rare to find anymore 
not everyone has trucks that look like your all's so getting this thing fixed is a must just so we can see what's gonna be posted next
not everyone has trucks that look like your all's so getting this thing fixed is a must just so we can see what's gonna be posted next
06-10-2013, 05:32 PM
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Hammond, LA
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
changing your oil in the tcase isnt a bad idea. your front/ rear comparision makes me wonder if it's the tcase possibly. i say change the fluid and see if there is any metal flakes in there
06-10-2013, 05:57 PM
#35
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: the great Maine wilderness
Posts: 2,048
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
You still never explained how you checked the U-joints....
Did you jack the whole rear end up with the trans in neutral, then shake the drive shaft?
Or just crawl under it and start shaking without putting it in the air?
If you didnt put it in the air to check them (dont just shake, spin it around while shaking, and check for binding, ANY play or binding means they are toast) then my $ is still on the u-joints.
ETA: I agree with yota boy, but I have seen u-joints that were bad enough to cause a "jerk" upon acceleration.
Did you jack the whole rear end up with the trans in neutral, then shake the drive shaft?
Or just crawl under it and start shaking without putting it in the air?
If you didnt put it in the air to check them (dont just shake, spin it around while shaking, and check for binding, ANY play or binding means they are toast) then my $ is still on the u-joints.
ETA: I agree with yota boy, but I have seen u-joints that were bad enough to cause a "jerk" upon acceleration.
Last edited by Team420; 06-10-2013 at 06:00 PM.
06-12-2013, 01:06 PM
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hey Toyota~Boy, thanks for all the kind words, and thanks for all the help with this!
Checking the oil in the t-case is a great idea. I'll do that. I'm sure it can use a change anyway.
Team420,
I put the wheels in the air like you said, rotating the driveshaft and shaking it from all angles. I didn't feel any play, but I was also checking for play in the pinion flange to check the bearings, so I may have not been completely focused. I have a friend here who is more experienced with u-joints than I am, so he's going to take a look soon.
The new Spartan should come in tomorrow, so I'm hoping to have the truck back on the road Saturday so I can keep looking in to the issue.
Thanks again everyone.
Checking the oil in the t-case is a great idea. I'll do that. I'm sure it can use a change anyway.
Team420,
I put the wheels in the air like you said, rotating the driveshaft and shaking it from all angles. I didn't feel any play, but I was also checking for play in the pinion flange to check the bearings, so I may have not been completely focused. I have a friend here who is more experienced with u-joints than I am, so he's going to take a look soon.
The new Spartan should come in tomorrow, so I'm hoping to have the truck back on the road Saturday so I can keep looking in to the issue.
Thanks again everyone.
06-12-2013, 06:04 PM
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
I just drained the transfer case oil. Almost nothing on the magnet in the drain plug. The oil is pretty clear. I think my mechanic may have changed the oil when I first bought the truck last year... But at least I know I'm not missing any teeth in there.
