How did you do that?

 

It would only take me one time of push starting before I had it fixed.Not only is it a PITA to push start but its silly to keep doing it instead of fixing the problem.If you suspected the CD unit is the problem but dont want to remove it,then you have no right to complain.I agree that having it start is more important than jamming to the CD.Everybody in here has already stated that there trucks push start.Your 94 isnt a "special" truck.

 

i had the same problem vehicle was 83 Celica 22rec 5 speed idiot at garage didn`t know enough to press the button and turn the key off.

Battery stone dead start with a booster pack get it running pulling out onto the road car stalls . At this point i don`t care what anyone says there is no way this car will start coasting down a half mile hill . As I tried this it didn`t start.

The alternator when you let out the clutch will no way spin any way near long and fast enough to get any where near enough charge in battery .

This is the first posters problem also.

Good battery starter issue I have compression started quite a few of these Toyotas flat drained battery it will not work .

Roll backed car home put in another battery drove down to square up with the Sara the roll back driver.

 

The clutch start cancel switch only overrides the safety for starting without depressing the clutch pedal.

An EFI equipped vehicle can be difficult to bump start because everything relies on the battery voltage until the alternator is spinning sufficiently fast to generate enough voltage AND amperage to supply the needs of the system. Don't forget that the fuel pump and ignition circuits can draw in excess of 15 amps by themselves. Additionally, the ECU has to draw enough power for itself, all the sensors and the fuel injectors and can exceed 10 amps draw. HOWEVER, the ECU is very sensitive to voltage for proper operation since the coolant, throttle and air-flow sensors are variable resistance type and relatively minute fluctuations in system voltage can affect system operation.

The battery not being able to retain a charge over a few days' time may be due to several possible causes. A weak cell may cause the others to overcharge which in turn reduces their ability to hold a charge, incorrect electrolyte concentration / specific gravity can affect a battery's charge capacity as can a faulty alternator and the previously mentioned parasitic draw. I've seen mention of all those but not much focus on the alternator so....

It is possible for voltage at the battery, with the engine running, to read what would appear to be sufficient voltage but still not result in a net charging of the battery. In specific, one or more failing diodes in the alternator could cause an AC voltage to be delivered to the battery along with the DC voltage. The result is what looks like proper voltage but on the negative side of the AC voltage, power is drawn from the battery reducing the amount of charge the battery will receive. Overall symptoms of this mimic what you'd see from either a bad cell in a battery or a parasitic draw.

 

i seriously just went outside....pulled my '92 4runner up into a slight hill in my yard...and it has a DEAD battery..as in if you test it..it doesn't show ANY charge AT ALL...(its about a 12 yr old battery) and it roll started just fine..even with a bunch of screwed up rod bearings..lmao

 

Long hill, 2 buddies, and Low2.

 

The alternator needs a charged coil to produce current, provided by the excitor circuit - the joys of electromagnetism. If there is not enough stored charge to excite the alternator it will not produce current regardless of how far you push/roll it. Furthermore if the battery is this depleted there is no hope that the ECU or fuel pump will have enough power to function. All push starting does is take away the function of the starter (the highest demand item on start). Anything less then 10 volts will cause a starter to fail to crank.

To be honest you probably dont have a parasite draw on the system....It is quite possible that the battery was once so depleted that it can no longer hold charge, naturally depleting itself over a few days. Get your battery load tested to confirm.

 

Ah, I had forgotten that the rotor is an electromagnet as opposed to a natural one. That's right, if the battery is dead enough to not light up the "charge" light on the dash, which is part of the exciter, you can be sure the alternator won't do you any good, if it can't light up the light, then the field coils aren't producing any magnetism.

 

I like that test light test. Simple yet effective. Will this rule out small draws like the clock and radio memory?

 

... wait a minute guys, all the technical talk, but listen to camo above, a 12 year old, totally dead battery, and his started up on a roll down his inclined yard!
This tells me, that all the talk about having to have enough of a charge in the battery, doesn't fly, and that even a small amount of generation by the alternator is enough to charge the system... If camo is right, and his started, then the battery doesn't seem to matter, in a jump start here, even for what the ecu needs...

 

The battery is most likely sulphated so it will not hold a charge. Time for a new one. The battery voltage will start dropping as soon you remove the charge.

 

I call bull, or at least question the accuracy of the statement. Without an excitor circuit there is no magnetic field, no induction, no current. The alternator cannot physically create current unless there is an electromagnetic field present. With no power coming from anywhere you cannot expect an EFI car to run. Also without a battery with some charge installed the alternator spikes would be enough to kill the ECU. There would have had to been enough charge in the battery to excite the alternator.

 

yeah, whether or not it will push start when the battery is dead, the root of the problem is that the battery is going dead. if it's being discharged every 3 or 4 days to the point it can't turn the starter, it's basically going to be unable to hold a charge anymore regardless. car batteries aren't meant to be deep discharged, and doing so more than a handful of times will permanently wreck the battery.

a wrecked battery will still hold a "surface charge", where it will appear to have a good charge, but if you put it under any sort of load this burns off quickly and the voltage drops. this might be enough to turn the starter if it's freshly charged but it won't be if it sits for a while.

in any case the easiest way to test this is to unplug the battery when you aren't driving it and see what the charge looks like after a couple of days. you should still try and figure out if your stereo is draining it, but I'll bet you need a new battery either way.

 

Clutch cancel is a good point. I disconnected mine years, and years ago, in all the trucks, but I do recall that being an issue.

 

nope!..no bull guy! sorry..lol just stating my experience..lol

all i had to do was turn the key on..put it in 1st gear..and release the e-brake (with the clutch depressed..lol) then just pop the clutch..

the lights on the dash were almost so dim you could'nt hardly tell they were on...

 

The lights were dim? Meaning you had charge in the battery...

 

Hey camo,pull the battery terminals off then push start.Come back in here and give us the low down.Im curious to know results,lol.

 

As stated before, I started mine with no battery in it.

 

Ah! yeah forgot about your post.That settles the discussion,you dont need a power source,just resistance.

 

my 87 runner pop starts just fine, as does my 92 3vze truck.