desertwalker62

ok... so i sent my engine back to Oregon Engine Rebuilders for warranty engine work and have it mostly put back in... Its a 22R that had high performance piston failure, but thats another story...

anyway, OER rebuilt everything and sent it back to me... its mostly in and i'm now trying to put the Distributor back in but it won't fit through the hole in the head!! OER claims that while they resurfaced and washed everything, that they for sure kept all my engine components together and could not have put a different head on my block because now there is a letter "W" stamped on the head for "warranty"... but wouldn't all there warrantied heads have the same stamp???

so the distributor gears are not yet touching the camshaft gears, so thats not the problem... the Distributor itself has a seam on the thicker solid part of the shaft that steps up slightly in diameter... the smaller part fits in the hole on the head but the fatter part does not... the fat part of the shaft here measures 1.060 on the micrometer... my hole on the head measures about 1.045!!! i called OER and the helpful mechanic there, not John, measured another head hole to be 1.065... what gives?!?! it came out of my engine just fine, and its not binding or cammed against the power steering pump either.

my friend has a cool device for honing out brake calipers with an electric drill... three spring loaded polishing stones i am considering using to bore out the head port to 1.065ish, maybe just under... has anyone else experienced like this? am i possibly missing something? i'm hesitant to bore out the port but seems like the solution...

also, is there a gasket or O-Ring for the distributor... didn't notice one taking it apart, but it also weeped a bit... there is a VERY rigid hard plasticy O-Ring or washer 3/4 of the way up the distributor shaft, also 1.060 diameter...

thanks all...

snobdds

Well that's a first for me. Never heard of a distributor not fitting before. Are you positive it's not binding on anything? I could possibly see it hanging up on the distributor drive gear if the angle isn't right.

If I absolutely had to take off material to make it fit I wouldn't take it all off of the head. I would sand a little bit off the distributor shaft to fine-tune the fit. A little bit off each part, until it just fits. There is an O-ring that is higher up on the shaft to keep it from leaking oil. I just go to Napa and get a bunch of Metric O-rings in the general diameter and then find out which one fits best.

xxxtreme22r

considering the D.U.I. IGNITION DISTRIBUTOR. fits 74-89 TOYOTA 20R AND 22R MOTORS I would say that's another strike for ORE. Tell them to fix it and figure out WTF happened.

Did you have the dizzy still installed when you gave them the engine back or did you have it already taken out and in your hands during their rebuild?

desertwalker62

it was in my hand during the rebuild... stripped everything... i was personally convinced my friend had it binding on top of the power steering pump, but no such luck... hard to see, but over 1/8 inch gap and it spins freely... just not into the hole...

HOW IS IT POSSIBLE THIS HOLE SHRUNK?!?!?! it measures smaller than the dizzy which is when i admitted something was wrong... i'm never sending my engine back to that place again... worthless... i thought there was paint in the port, but its shiny... can see the bore marks... how would i evenly take material off the dizzy shaft??? i wonder if this is even my engine.... there was another one at the loading dock when i picked mine up... but even at that... all the ports and components should be identical, right!!! how did it shrink?!

not sure if it's usually included in a "full gasket kit" or not, but ORE also sent me a new gasket packet that contained an obviously used (and cracked) fuel pump spacer, and one additional paper gasket same shape...

dizzy drive gear makes it all the way through, first half of the main support shaft makes it through the port... then the seam hits and it stops... dizzy drive gear hanging over 1/4 inch in front of camshaft drive gear, just floating in space!!

Hole measures 1.045!!! WTF?!

xxxtreme22r

it was in your hand and was in the engine prior to giving it to them. Make them fix it, if they won't fix it especially after having to pay for your warrantied block, I would be putting another claim against them at the BBB.

I have taken it upon myself to make sure this guy does not sell another engine to the yota crowd. Jeep guys might be stupid but us yota guys know whats really going on with these morons.

desertwalker62

i would love to know more about how i can legally and aggressively come at this guy... he already swapped my high performance warrantied pistons for stock (cheaper) pistons and didn't give any credit or choice... he threatened just voiding the warranty altogether... he refused to hear about the tech articles on the piston manufacturers website, which shows identical pictures to my broken pistons, explaining why this happens!!! his mechanic told me they don't measure top ring end gap!! keith black has different end gaps for different applications driving, towing, or racing and he never confers with his client about what vehicle its going in or how it will be used... he told me it was a week turn around time in his shop... it was 3 and 1/2 weeks plus 2 weeks of shipping that i was without a vehicle and unable to get to work, losing money... i'm so broke and not looking forward to pay another $300 bucks to ship it back... i am not confident i have my original motor and don't know enough about engines to identify the pistons or oversize valves as they are installed... i have casting numbers from this latest block and head, but never recorded the original numbers... idiot! there was a second engine from ORE at the freight dock... wonder if the shipping labels got mixed up?
the owner of this shop is a chump, but he has another mature mechanic who is easy to talk to and tries to help instead of just telling the client he ˟˟˟˟˟ed it up... punk @ss b!tch!

xxxtreme22r

As I had said in another thread of yours, if he's selling these engines as you bought it with the warranty lifetime or otherwise and replacing them with different less expensive parts it's False Advertisement plain and simple. BBB should be able to help you out with the legalities of this incompetent idiot.

Even if the shipping labels got mixed up it is obviously a 22r or 20r engine which have the same dizzy hole assuming there is not provisions in that D.U.I. dizzy to fit both.

Cross referencing OEM part numbers etc etc won't help as the dizzy's themselves are different. You should not have to grind one bit or change anything on that motor for any of your old parts to fit. That's the bottom line.

desertwalker62

i returned to my truck with a new (reman) dizzy and found my friend was one step ahead and had some emery paper surrounding the honing device balanced in the port on the head, waiting for my cordless drill... slowly turning and pulling the combo out (about half turn on the draw) saw some very faint scratches from the emery paper and a couple granules from the paper... cleaned everything spotless and re-lubricated shaft and opening... new dizzy just barely inserted an extra 1/8" past seam on shaft... virtually IN as far as i was concerned... got the old one and seriously stuffed it in and out, rotating it, and it slowly got deeper and deeper, but still exceptionally tight... got it to completely bottom out after several sessions of working it the hole, producing dark metal tainted oil lubricant, cleaning it out and lubricating again several time, finally got it all the way in!!!

i believe there was some sort overspray from the powder coat or paint they put on the engine, maybe just on the lip of the port that i managed to grind off... its still tighter than putting my distributer in my buddies truck, but at least its in! anyway its getting there, i'll hopefully finish the install tomorrow...

i have a sister in business law... interested in getting some sort of compensation...