Oh No! The engine light came on and the engine stopped at the same time. Now the light stays on and the engine won't start. Towed it home with my van and now it's in my driveway. Other than towing to a shop what's the firsti step to repair it?
'94 Pickup 22RE manual trans mission 165K miles

 

Step one is to check what trouble code has turned the light on.

Step two is to tell us what it is.

 

the check engine light comes on whenever the key is on and the engine is not running. so there may be something simple.
check all the fuses under the hood and dashboard, make sure the ignition coil is properly connected, make sure you have oil in the engine and gas in the tank.

 

OK I didn't read the codes but there's no spark from the coil wire when I hold it near the chassis. Gas is OK oil is OK. Your right about the light comes on if the engine isn't running so my light is always on when the key is in the on position. The connections at the coil pack, the distributor (hall sensor), and the igniter look good and are all are tight. I read battery voltage at the wires from the ecm and from the ignition switch. I don't measure a good ground wire though. I'm going to check the high voltage from the coil again. Thanks

 

The fuses are good, I checked them with an ohm meter. The coil has continuity but no spark I'm trying to figure a good way to measure the primary coil voltage.

 

with your fingertip

so is there 12 volts of power getting directly to the coil's power post and the ground is good?

if so, and there's no spark from it, then the coil is just shot more than likely

 

try to pull your error codes. on the passenger fender well, there should be a diagnostic test port with a lid. if you pop it open, you'll see a diagram of what each terminal is. you want to have the key off then insert a jumper between the TE1 and E1 terminals then turn the key on but do not try to start the truck. watch the check engine light and count the flashes.
the flashes display the code in two-digit groups, so two flashes followed by a short pause then 4 flashes would mean code 24. once it's flashed all the stored codes, it starts over from the beginning so you don't have to worry about missing any, just keep watching, counting and writing until you see the same codes repeated.
then post the codes here.

 

I found the problem, the timing chain broke! Now I need to get ready for a big job.

 

wow arent the 22re's bad when it comes to a broken timing chain? just a though not sure but you might be in for a major over hall i hope not though

 

your screwed, 50/50 chance your motors shot

 

how many miles does it have?

 

Chances are you are gonna be in for a full rebuild or new engine. Unless you got a horseshoe up your butt your pistions probibly had a close encounter with some valves...

 

thats what i thought

 

Well I havn't taken anything apart yet but my mechanic looked at it and said it isn't blown and replacing the timing chain will fix it. He gave me a pric of $1100 pulling the head and the oil pan. It's been a few years since I turned wrenches on a project like this so I'm inclined to let him do it. I know it's a lot of $$$$$'s but....

 

Hmm, I would be quite suprized if you didnt bend any valves when the t-chain broke.... Has your mechanic worked on toyotas before?

 

Yes he has but I hear what your saying.
I'm not known for being lucky so it doesn't seem likely that I avoided damaging the valves.

 

For another 3 or 4 hundred bucks you can get a brand spanking new motor from japanengine.com
http://www.japanengine.com/products/...&search=&page=
Just something to consider.

 

There's no reason to get a completely new engine over some bent valves. Pull the head and check the valves. In most all cases the piston is never damaged, only the valve(s). New valves, seals, and machine work won't cost much at all. It's just a little labor intensive to do the job from start to finish.

 

Sounds like a timing chain, pull the valve cover and I bet you find the prob.

**reread the whole thread, you've already figured it out, sorry about the t chain**

Pull the head, then have a look at the carbon deposits where the piston tops correspond to the valves, marks on the valves mean there was contact. It may be totally obvious though. I broke my timing chain and all I had to do was replace the chain itself. It's pretty easy to do. I don't think new heads are that expensive either if it is the case that your pistons hit the valves. I've heard that the 22RE pistons are really tough and thus they probably will survive hitting hte valves. Slap on a new head and you're in business.

 

That sounds encouraging.