Hmmm.....I'd check the airflow meter.

(Edit: you have to actually test with an ohm meter to know if it's working or not)

But, I gotta go.....the wife wants dinner. Chez Matthew, here. Tah....and good luck. Kirk will help you.

 

when i connect the te1 and e1 terminal will the rpms drop instantly? maybe thats what im skipping.

 

wheres the air flow meter?

 

when you jumper those terminals, the idle should drop. yes, instantly. If it don't the TPS is not signalling idle to the ECU.
The air flow meter is at the end of the tube from the throttle, above the air filter.

 

the afm was what i checked that was clean. i thought it was called a mass airflow sensor.

 

where do i connect an ohm meter to it? what are the readings supposed to be?

 

well, some people call it a mass air flow, but technically it is air flow meter.
a mass air flow sensor uses a heated wire to sense how much air is entering the engine based on how much electrical current is needed to maintain a certain temperature on the wire.
an air flow meter uses a vane, or flap, to measure how much air enters, based on how much the incoming air pushes the vane or flap out of the way.
(sometimes the afm is also refered to as a VAF... volume air flow or vane air flow).

a mass air flow sensor is more sensitive to air temperatures than an afm/vaf is and produces a more accurate reading (due to the fact it uses temperature to calculate the air density).

 

refer here:
http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml
for testing the AFM

 

Well, from all appearances it can look shiny and spotless and still be bad. What goes bad are the inner tracks that you can't see without pulling it apart (the black plastic piece/cover sealed with silicone on top of it)....just like the TPS. There's a metal arm that moves across an electronic strip and that strip wears over time. Mine looked spotless from the outside, as yours does, but found it was bad after running a test not covered in the manual or on 4crawler's page. If you don't have an ohm meter and are not up to getting one or learning how to use one (they're actually quite easy to use, though), then have someone else that does have one and knows how do it.

I'll try and find the little write-up thread I made on the test I ran. 4crawler's page that he linked has the standard procedure.....as does the factory service manual.

Mass Air Flow sensors, as they're called, are equipped on newer vehicles and are functionally different than the vain airflow meters equipped on the older model EFI's like yours. Everyone (well, most) on the forum knows the functional difference and therefore the specific/correct name for each, so it doesn't matter what you call it. Everyone knows what you're talking about. But, in actual troubleshooting and diagnosis, knowing what each is called makes the difference. Plus, if you run any kind of internet search using the "wrong" name you'll turn up different info. Incidentally, AutoZone and other parts stores call VAM's a mass airflow sensor, too. Tomato....tomahto....

EDIT: WTH!!! Kirk?!! I'm going to start calling you Rod. Or should I be going by Rod? Hmmm...."somewheeerrre oooover the rainboooow"...."truly gone fishing"....

 

you say 'tomahto' I say 'tomayto'
you say 'potahto' I say shut the fruck up.

 

KMA!!!, buttwheat!

 

well, i done what you guys told me. i adjusted the tps until it idled and connected the t1 and e1 terminals while it was running and the rpms dropped slightly. but when i would push on the pedal it is still bogging down. what do i do now? do i have to adjust the timing?

 

The timing would affect the idle, were it still high, but not the bogging down. Something else is going on, and I believe it could be...again...the airflow meter. Your problem seems to be related to air induction, not ignition timing.

Have you looked at the 4crawler page, yet....the link that abecedarian provided? It shows you what terminals to connect to with the ohm meter.

Here's the thread I was talking about...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...esting-146662/

 

i still cant get the rpms below 1500. when i connect the terminals it drop to about 1100, and thats with the idle screw turned all the way down to low idle side. it throws a code 7 and 11 now. will the afm keep the rpms up that high?

 

the afm should not limit the idle speed that much

 

I found some dash pot once!


Dang short term memory....forgot where I put it

 

and the 7 and 11 are going to show since you were mucking around with the TPS. pull the battery cables for a minute or so to clear the codes and they shouldn't come back.

 

I'm gonna lean (pun intended) at a vacuum leak.

 

but how do i get the rpms down?

 

i sprayed carb fluid on all the vaccum lines and the engine didnt revv up.