CV boot torn, replace axl???
#1
CV boot torn, replace axl???
So I just noticed today that my drivers-side CV boot is torn and is spewing grease. Obviously I have to replace it but I do not know if I should replace the axl at the same time being as Ill have it apart. Does anyone know how easily CV axls are destroyed when the cv boot is torn? Or any ways to tell if the axl needs to be replaced? I noticed when i turn hard right i hear what sounds like a grinding noise/ metal on metal. But Toyota said I would hear it when turning to the left because its on the drivers side so i dont know what that noise is. When I turn hard left I dont hear any clicking or anything so is my axl fine? Please help! This is something that cannot be left or it will get much worse so any information what so ever would be very much appreciated! I know this is a very common occurance with toyotas so there must be someone who can help me.
#2
yup its just a little more to get a reman unit the whole axle then it is to go through the hassle of rebooting..
im chaning mine soon on my trail rig i have the part it cost me almost 200 at canadian tire but has a 75 core charge.. or something dont remember maybe it was around 175... anyways its pretty easy and there was a recent thread on it
im chaning mine soon on my trail rig i have the part it cost me almost 200 at canadian tire but has a 75 core charge.. or something dont remember maybe it was around 175... anyways its pretty easy and there was a recent thread on it
Last edited by bigt; May 13, 2008 at 04:22 PM.
#3
Same thing happend on my 90 Runner bought 2 new axel's from the Zone and they have done fine. One thing I did notice, the axel's did'nt look as big though
90 4Runner
31x10.5 Pretty much stock right now working towards some upgrades
90 4Runner
31x10.5 Pretty much stock right now working towards some upgrades
Last edited by pikertoyx4; May 13, 2008 at 04:28 PM.
#4
yeah..I paid $75/each(USD) and did both in less than 3 hrs, i bet it would take a while to clean the old grease and reboot. Also...Do you have manual locking hubs? If so, it's not a big deal, just keep them unlocked, and when you need 4x4 try to go easy on them
Last edited by Team420; May 13, 2008 at 04:29 PM.
#7
The front suspension is designed to turn the wheel on the inside of a corner sharper than the wheel on the outside of the corner. That is why the toyomech said that you'd hear a noise on the left if it was the left joint causing the problem. FWD cars are designed quite similarly to IFS front ends (after the differential) and that is the tell-tale sign that a CV joint is out- when you go 'round a corner, the side that makes the noise is bad.
Given that little 411, look at the passenger side boot and see if there's a crack in it and you've already lost all the grease.
Given that little 411, look at the passenger side boot and see if there's a crack in it and you've already lost all the grease.
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#8
The infamous CV click means you should definitely replace the axle. I have found in the past that you can sometimes hear it a little better at ALMOST full lock in reverse. It helps to get a friend down there to make sure that's where the noise is coming from. Make sure the hobs are locked if you don't have ADD and don't do it in low 4 on pavement.
#9
Consider a used axle. The OEM boots are the best. A good axle costs me about $30US. It's just a matter of finding good one. A plus is the experience you get at a Pick-n-Pull yard!
Personally, I don't trust the Zone to sell quality parts.
Personally, I don't trust the Zone to sell quality parts.
#10
i noticed the boot on my driver side was torn and all the grease has slung out already, and since i dont do much wheelin'..i didnt worry about it and that was about about a year ago. i just noticed yesterday afternoon while pulling my auto locking hub apart to clean and and check everything out (about to go and buy manuals!) that the one on the pass side ripped too...so i wouldnt say its something to check on but can work for a while...i would fix mine but since i work at a body shop...i make crap money
#12
Reman axles here at CT are $139 plus a core charge (you get it back of course when you drop off your used axles). My inner tripod on the '95 is REALLY tight, and I'm not interested in trying to fight with it for that price. Since they're reman they should be OEM Toyota axles with new, aftermarket boots.
#13
I always go to the junkyard or check for sale sections of forums for people that did a SAS and looking to get rid of parts.
Usually pick one up for $20-25 and haven't had a hard time finding one yet. Sure it's a PITA to pull them from junk vehicles, but I have more time than $$$.
I've ran a ripped boot for around 3 years once before I replaced it. I've never actually broken one. I do have locking hubs though so it's only an issue when they are locked in.
Usually pick one up for $20-25 and haven't had a hard time finding one yet. Sure it's a PITA to pull them from junk vehicles, but I have more time than $$$.
I've ran a ripped boot for around 3 years once before I replaced it. I've never actually broken one. I do have locking hubs though so it's only an issue when they are locked in.
Last edited by grandeyota; May 14, 2008 at 06:05 AM.
#14
when i bought my 4runner there was only one boot up front, they clicked terribly and i didnt trust them 1 bit, went to the local junkyard and pulled a complete front end out of a 2nd gen and replaced um, took about 4 hours, and upgraded to 4:56s front/rear in the process for under $150 for the front diff, rear diff, axle shafts, calipers and rotors, no more clicking!
#15
An interesting article re. reman cv joints:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvgrind.htm
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvgrind.htm
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