This is a kind of dumb question, I got my fornt lift on for about 3 1/2 inches of lift and it threw my camber off a little and I put in the CV Axles as well, now when I drive down the road the front end hops extremely bad. Is this my camber being off or are my axles binding up? I will get some pics soon so I can show you the camber and axle angles. The camber only looks to be toed in a few degrees and I cant imagine that it would cause it to violently bounce but the angle of the axles does not seem very extreme either.

 

Did you lift the front 3.5" without aligning it? If so, camber and toe are way out. I mean waaaayyyyy out. If you did align it, post up some pics, it will help in the diagnosis.

Frank

 

Well I got a T-Bar cranked and got it aligned then I just did BJ Spacers and that threw it out of whack

 

lifting 3 1/2 inches with stock ifs withouth dropping the diff is going to cause problems..

 

describe hops?

Does it actually bounce the truck?

This does not sound good, but more diagnosis is needed.

However, if your axles are binding, you should destroy them pretty quickly, which would be pretty easy to see.

We'll see, but i'd imagine you would have seen evidence already of blown axles if it was the axles binding up.

 

Well bounces is more like it, my friend had a 6 inch lift on his bronco and the tires were way out of alignment and my truck is doing the same thing just not AS violent so I am hoping its just alignment but I dont want to pay 50 dollars and have it not be that. Tomorrow I will jack the front and support the A-Arms and see if it goes away.

 

You need to align your front end badly, that is the cause. It's not the a-arm angle that is doing this, it's the fact that the tires are way toed in. I suggest you align it yourself before you take it in. It's an easy way to rule out the problem and you might find it's actually pretty easy and can save you a lot of money.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-pics-115273/

Frank

 

i could also be hopping because he has his t- bars cranked so much.

 

This is also possible. 3.5" of torsion bar cranking and bj spacers is a lot. Typically, 1.5", the lift of the spacer, is the most recommended for long CV boot life.

The best way to see what is doing what as far as your ride quality is to fix the first smoking gun, the alignment.

If the truck is set such that the upper control arm is resting on or very near its bumpstop, you ride quality will be terrible period.

Frank

 

do a redneck driveway alignment, bring the torsions down to 1/2" above stock and you'll be way better off.

 

Do you have 3.5 inches with the torsion bar on top of that or 3.5 inches combined lift between the two?

 

3.5 with both, its like 3 or so. I dont really know, the story goes; I bought the truck with saggy ass syndrome and bought Eibach coil springs, website says 1.5'' lift depending on application. So I had a shop install them and said adjust the T-Bars to be close. Then I did 1.5'' BJ Spacers so anywhere around 3'' is my guess. And 2'' Spacers for the rear coils.

 

And to calrify, I have not touched the T-Bars since they were adjusted with springs, just the BJ spacers

 

Well, you need to align the truck. Adding spacers throws your alignment way way out.

Is your upper control arm resting on the upper bumpstop? Also, are you using stock upper bumpstops or low profile?

Frank

 

Well, get an alignment, see if it fixes it.

 

you did get longer shocks for the front right?
if not, it's going to do that.

 

Yeah longer shocks all around, not resting on bumpstops, they are stock I didnt shim them because I did not see the need, I am trying to get articulation out of my vehcile so I didnt want to hinder it.

 

Right on about the upper stops, no need to shim the stock ones.

Well I think we have nailed your problem. You need an alignment. I would again suggest you attempt to do it yourself before taking it in.

Frank

 

Alright well I read your thing about alignment and didnt get the cam bolt, you literally just turn them and it turns the A-Arm?

 

Yes.

Well they shift the a-arm side to side. Play with them a bit and you'll see how they effect the suspension geometry.

Now is a great opportunity to see how these adjustments affect your suspension. Your alignment is already out so see how close you can get it.

In a nutshell: Tires vertical, lower a-arms biased forwards (rear cams outwards more than the front cams), front tires parallel to the rear or ever so slightly toed in that order.

Frank