89-4Runner

i'm trying to replace my torsion bars but so far have been unable to snap the bolts (or loosen them for that matter). control arms are at full droop, shocks and sway bar removed. i was planning on just sticking a saw-zall in there to cut them out, but i will be laying under the truck on jackstands and don't want a violent snap to shake the truck, etc...
any comments/advice?
thanks-

snap-on

yes even with the arms at full droop there is still considerable load on them.

i used a 6 point socket and a 4' cheeter bar on a 1/2" ratchet and row'ed on mine for 10 min before it broke with the sound of a shotgun and both me and my buddy started doing the frantic check to make shure we were both still in one piece.

i would highly recomend NOT cutting them

mt_goat

When it lets loose the force of the adjuster arm will be up towards the floor board. I've heard of guys getting a hole punched up in their floor board. If you have a body lift that will help.

89-4Runner

thanks for the info...
i don't have a body lift, but maybe i'll put something under my floor to soften the blow. i guess i'll end up trying to loosen/break them with a breaker bar vs. cutting them.
thanks-

mt_goat

Yeah, I don't really see the difference between breaking the bolt vs cutting it. Either way, it will release the spring force suddenly. Just don't have any hands in the way of that adjuster arm as it lets loose and make sure your truck is stable on the jack stands.

Twisty

I've got two decent dints in my floor from having to cut the bolts off my torsion bars.....they scare the ˟˟˟˟˟ out of you when they let go.....not something I'd like to do again. I now spray the bolts with WD40 every so often to help prevent them rusting up again.

AH64ID

I had to break on of mine last year....wasnt that bad...but it loosened about 10 turns before it stopped....took a crap load of arm juice and a cheater bar.

brake the bolt, dont cut the bar....

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

maybe you could duct tape a thick piece of carpet on the underside of the floor where the t-bar will smack.

AH64ID

I am trying to imagine how it works, but I dont think anything will smack if the bolt breaks.. the torsion bar will just unload, but its still fixed in the front....The tear drop adjusting thingy will move...but it shouldn't bounce up high enough to hit anything...

SporkTek

Anyone know of a good rust-penetrating spray-on lube? I've used Nuts Off in the past, seems to work ok. Anyone else have any recomendations?

AH64ID

PB-blaster, works great

Snorkeldepth

Yep, PB Blaster is good stuff. I've been soaking my torsion bar adjustment nuts, as well as several other things that are going to need to be moved/adjusted after 16 years, in it every so often for a couple months. Seafom makes a product called Deep Creep that's supposed to be good too.

Superflex84

I can attest to the hole in the floor theory... did it with my 89 3 litre and just about had a heart attack.

get it on some jack stands and look the other way

wrenchmonster

For an oil, I might try this:

http://www.jdheritage.net/DeerelyDep...Items/4001.asp

I would not recommend any procedure that would cause the tension of the torsion bar to release suddenly. Doing so can kill you, literally. Remember also that torsion bars are brittle, and pieces can break off and take an eye out, etc.

If you are unable to release tension via the adjuster, I would recommend releasing tension by putting a hydralic jack under the LCA, then release the upper ball joint. Once that is done, you can use the jack to control the drop of the LCA and safely release tension on the torsion bars. Remember when popping off the upper ball joint, to leave the nut temporarily so the knuckle doesn't pop out and take out your shins. Good luck.