Crankshaft seal replacement on a 3.0
#1
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Crankshaft seal replacement on a 3.0
Is it hard to replace the crank shaft seal on the 3.0?
What all is involved once I have the timing belt and crankshaft timing pully removed?
Any special tools etc?
Thanks
Man, one thing leads to the next with this thing.
What all is involved once I have the timing belt and crankshaft timing pully removed?
Any special tools etc?
Thanks
Man, one thing leads to the next with this thing.
#2
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im assuming your talking about the front crankshaft seal. You can screw a small self tapping screw into the seal and pry it out by the screw, just make sure you dont mar the mating surface on the crank or block.
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Thanks Yota Krazy. The screw trick worked great.
I could not get the self tapping screw to penitrate the metal inside the gasket so used a 5/64ths drill bit and put a small hole in the seal, then the screw and pulled it out with a pair of plyers. Worked slick.
I have another question:
I really wonder if the belt tensioner with the spring is pulling hard enough for the belt.
I have measured the spring free length and I'm just a hair over but it's very very close to spec. Spec is 2.22" and mine is 2.285" on the calipers.
I have tried what Leiniesred said in another post to let the spring pull the tensioner over , then tighten it down, turn the crank 2 revolutions, then loosen the tensioner letting the spring pull and finally tighten the bolt down to speced tork.
I still think the belt could be a bit tighter with a little push by hand before you crank the bolt down but I wonder if it can be to tight.
Any Ideas?
I could not get the self tapping screw to penitrate the metal inside the gasket so used a 5/64ths drill bit and put a small hole in the seal, then the screw and pulled it out with a pair of plyers. Worked slick.
I have another question:
I really wonder if the belt tensioner with the spring is pulling hard enough for the belt.
I have measured the spring free length and I'm just a hair over but it's very very close to spec. Spec is 2.22" and mine is 2.285" on the calipers.
I have tried what Leiniesred said in another post to let the spring pull the tensioner over , then tighten it down, turn the crank 2 revolutions, then loosen the tensioner letting the spring pull and finally tighten the bolt down to speced tork.
I still think the belt could be a bit tighter with a little push by hand before you crank the bolt down but I wonder if it can be to tight.
Any Ideas?
#4
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is this spring you are using new? I wouldnt mess around with timing belt tension, even if it isnt an interference motor. Just replace it with a OEM spring, just do you dont have to worry about it.
It will be tight enough when you have a new spring, trust me! Good luck with the rest of the project brotha.
It will be tight enough when you have a new spring, trust me! Good luck with the rest of the project brotha.
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