Man that switch that you have is bugging me.
To make sure I'm following you correctly: Power wire from battery to switch on dash, then from the switch to the fuel pump AND to the red wire from alt?

Or does that one wire run from the switch and connect to where the engine fuse is bypassed?

 

exactly! im beginning to think part of the problem may be overloading that circuit. i may ty putting the furl pump on its own swtich, and the red alternator wire on another swtich, both to constant power with individual inline fuses. if i ad them to another ignition power (what i did before) im worried ill overload said circuit and fry it. vid has about an hour on it... its uploading slooow!

 

Basically your battery is taking place of the alt to power your gauges, blinkers etc. If that's the case, what is the alt wire hooked up too? Or is it even hooked up at all? If it has been cut off or fried out somewhere between the alt and fuse block, and it's still hooked up to the alt, then it still has juice flowing through and if it's touching something somewhere there's the issue. Which could be why the PO added the switch and bypassed the fuse so he could skate around the actual problem.
Might be a shot in the dark but thats kind of what I think. I'll check out your vid later on tonight.

 

i think with that fuse blowing is cause with the switch u have there it is sending power back down that line and so the fuse if acting like a light but instead it blows, try removing the fuse and put a test light there and see if u have power on both sides with the switch on. if so then go to your steering coulum and remove the clip that goes to the wipers and see if u still have power on both sides.

 

the switch isnt intended to be permanent. i hope not at least... if i make perm switches, i would love to run them off of the alt power wire! but the alt pawer wire is the red wire right? and it has no power... at least within about 2 feet of the alt its dead.

here is the VID:

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqlCNUxDj4I[/YOUTUBE]

 

have u checked to see if u have power from ignition switch with the key turned on... all your problems sound more of a ignition it should be a black yellow wire that when on it should have power, also the white wire at the alt should have consent power and only giving the red wire power when alt running. from looking at wire diagram it looks like that. i was looking at the fsm on page 1459 is the start of the wiring diagram.

 

that was the first thing i checked. ignition power is good. the switch is good. isnt it crazy in the video that my battery light comes on when the revs come up with the lights on?!

im pretty much stumped.

for anyone coming directly to page 2, not seeing the vid and the current state of things, here it is:
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqlCNUxDj4I[/YOUTUBE]

 

ok im stumped thats everything that i can think of right now. im not sure what else to look at...

 

welcome to my life. i would be okay with putting the gauges and the fuel pump on separate switches. completely okay with it. the question is, what do i wire them into; the battery or the alternator power?

i just want it to run and be reliable! is that so much to ask? haha

if i dont figure something out soon, ill just end up parting it out or something... i dont know... sigh.

 

bump. anyone?

 

Good LORD, ....that is, surely, some TRIPPY CRAP going on!

I think I've asked you, but when you push on the AFM gate, the fuel pump goes on?(Not sure that would work the same with the 're-wiring' that you've had to do..... I know, the PO probably TOTALLY jacked it up, just trying to get it clear.)

Also, is it possible that, since you're running hot wires right next to your Ignitor/Coil, those, being MANY Volts at the coil, etc., are causing a bounce?(Maybe just insulate it really well just to rule it out...... The bouncing TACH effect, i mean)....

GEEEEESH, that is pretty bizarre.. I'm still waiting on a response from my buddy, he's a master electrician and VERY good with these rigs.... (he's just been going through some Crises...haven't wanted to push him, ya know? lol)

It seems to me like you're bypassing your IGN switch, at least for the "KEY ON" portion, etc., which leaves you needing to run wires to a switch to get the cluster to light up/engage? HOLY Mackerel! lol...

 

good call on insulating the wires. though i believe it would be bad through the entire powerband wouldn't it? as rpms increase, so does volts/amps from the alternator? when i give it gas, it settles. still worth a shot.

i would love to wire both into some ignition power like i did before! but cant find an ignition power source that doesn't loose power when i tap into it.

any suggestions on good strong ignition power wires i could tap into? preferably as close to the alternator as possible.

 

so i decided to start a new thread for this to help drum up some new business, since my old thread is poorly named for this problem... since the problem came later...

aaaanyways.... long story short, my truck died on the side of the road. i think it was the alternator and batter, both of which are old... the alternator is the original toyota alternator with 220k miles on it. im not rich so i replaced it with a middle of the road alternator from the parts store. the toyota alternator just isnt an option unless YOU want to buy it for me. WAY to spendy.

after new alternator and battery, still nothing. ive spent a lot of time on this truck rewiring crap the PO had hillbilly rigged. everything was fine until lately.

please keep in mind, none of the wiring in the video is permanent! its just there to help with diagnosis.

i am stumped... and most who have tried to help are too it seems.

things to note:
-ignition switch is fine
-red wire from alternator has no power by itself
-headlights on makes everything worse
-something is causing my "windshield wiper" fuse to blow and when it blows... it wont crank.
-the old alternator made my voltage gauge in the truck read much higher than this one. it used to read in the top 1/4 and barely budged with the lights or any other accessory on.... thats hows its been since ive had the 4runner.. i dont know if that was over charging or not because i have nothing to compare it too. is this alternator undercharging? (14.9-15.1 volts at idle)

any wiring gurus out there? the PO of my truck was such a hillbilly jackass!

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51704089

new thread started here for new symptoms... since it both cranks and starts now.

 

the red wire at the alt gets its power from the 15 amp engine fuse .. that fuse gets its power straight from the ignition switch .. so test your switch..

 

this may be a stupid question, but have you thoroughly checked all of your grounds to the battery? a bad ground can cause all sorts of issues like this

putting that and that spider web of bare "hot" wires you have under the hood aside, it's possible the regulator in the NEW alternator was bad to begin with



word of advise: even if you're just using those wires to diagnose, I'd put a fuse at the battery for that wire you put there for constant power... that's not safe in ANY way shape or form... it only takes seconds for those open wire ends to touch the frame or body, short, melt, catch fire, and the entire truck could be up in flames before you know it...

 

the PO eliminated the "engine fuse" i believe because the fuse holder itself is broken. all of these problems where cause by the PO... not myself. ive been sorting through them and fixing them.

grounds are all good. i have a new video coming today.

as for the bare wires, you would be wise to note the gauge of the wire im using. if there is a serious short, that wire will just melt and be gone. and if it where to continue to ark out over all the grease and oil ind dirt in the engine bay, the wire is just slightly wedged into the positive terminal. a small flick and its free. also, i always keep a fire extinguisher on hand when working with electrical components. im not foolish. i think if you checked out my build thread and saw how bad the wiring was when i got this truck, you would see im pretty solid in my work. there is nothing more i hate the a hillbilly hack job.

not looking for the safety police to come here to break my balls.



with that said... after a little work today i got the gauges and fuel pump all working. ... my problem now is a massive draw on the alternator when the lights are on, and once the truck has run for a minute, the RPM's drop way down to stumbling and it dies. could the draw be from the gauge of wire im using? as stated, its pretty small gauge wire... the ends of the wire near the switch get pretty hot as well as the switch, pretty quick, then the light are on. if the lights are not on, it doesnt even get warm. if i would leave the lights on for more than a minute or two, the switch would get to hot to touch, im sure... or fry itself. its just a cheapy plastic toggle switch.

please note, it has a new o2 sensor, TPS, alternator and deep cycle battery.

very close to just parting this turd out or scraping it.

 

not trying to be a "safety police", I've just seen my fair share of nice cars and truck burnt to a crisp because someone wanted to take a "short cut"

 

this prolly has no use...but i had parking light problems and when me and a friend where trying to diagnose it we found out that ALL the switches come on when grounded...long story short it was one of my three relays under the fuse box. checked your relays? the ones on the kick panel get corroded and if ones pitted then it could go crazy..there are three by the fuses and one for the actual driving lights on the firewall. id say play with them and make sure they click..

 

i was just asking in my vid what those relays are. check this vid:

current condition.
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axo4LcehuYI[/YOUTUBE]