coolant system gasket name needed
08-04-2010, 08:45 AM
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coolant system gasket name needed
Posted last night. for some reason it got deleted?
not typing it all out again. Long story short....
I know this is a stupid question, but can someone tell me what part this is? I need a gasket for it, not sure what its called.
its the metal part where the upper radiator hose connects to, and bolts down with two bolts. you can see it in this picture, where the coolant is. v6.
thanks
not typing it all out again. Long story short....
I know this is a stupid question, but can someone tell me what part this is? I need a gasket for it, not sure what its called.
its the metal part where the upper radiator hose connects to, and bolts down with two bolts. you can see it in this picture, where the coolant is. v6.
thanks
08-04-2010, 09:12 AM
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Also, Other than the tstat and radiator cap, can anyone shed some ideas as to why my 95 4runner (V6) gets hot going uphills?
Regular around town driving is fine, When I go up a decent sized hill, I start smelling coolant. Open the hood and it's almost like the coolant is boiling and pouring out of the overflow hose of the res.
Any ideas will be appreciated.
Also, No coolant in oil/oil in coolant
Regular around town driving is fine, When I go up a decent sized hill, I start smelling coolant. Open the hood and it's almost like the coolant is boiling and pouring out of the overflow hose of the res.
Any ideas will be appreciated.
Also, No coolant in oil/oil in coolant
08-04-2010, 09:15 AM
#7
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Edit: I type too slow. Sorry if this is unnecessary detail. As far as overheating, I'd take the radiator into a shop and get it cleaned out. Also a new Toyota thermostat. Get the Toyota one--aftermarket is not as good.
That uses only RTV as a sealant. There is a grove in the aluminum housing that needs to be cleaned well, and all old RTV needs to be removed from both sides of the sealing surface. You need to use a non-residue solvent and remove all traces of antifreeze and oil from the surfaces before you apply the silicone with acetone or brake parts cleaner. Don't use carb cleaner as it leaves a residue.
Apply a bead of silicone about 1/16" or so wide into the groove, making sure there are no gaps or air bubbles. The RTV should fill the groove and stick up about as high above the housing as the groove is deep. If that makes any sense.
Put the housing on and torque the nuts (they are not very tight, so be careful).
I recommend you let the silicone cure for 24 hours if at all possible before you fill the antifreeze to help ensure you don't have any leaks.
Bugs
That uses only RTV as a sealant. There is a grove in the aluminum housing that needs to be cleaned well, and all old RTV needs to be removed from both sides of the sealing surface. You need to use a non-residue solvent and remove all traces of antifreeze and oil from the surfaces before you apply the silicone with acetone or brake parts cleaner. Don't use carb cleaner as it leaves a residue.
Apply a bead of silicone about 1/16" or so wide into the groove, making sure there are no gaps or air bubbles. The RTV should fill the groove and stick up about as high above the housing as the groove is deep. If that makes any sense.
Put the housing on and torque the nuts (they are not very tight, so be careful).
I recommend you let the silicone cure for 24 hours if at all possible before you fill the antifreeze to help ensure you don't have any leaks.
Bugs
Last edited by bugs1961; 08-04-2010 at 09:18 AM.
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08-04-2010, 12:13 PM
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Edit: I type too slow. Sorry if this is unnecessary detail. As far as overheating, I'd take the radiator into a shop and get it cleaned out. Also a new Toyota thermostat. Get the Toyota one--aftermarket is not as good.
That uses only RTV as a sealant. There is a grove in the aluminum housing that needs to be cleaned well, and all old RTV needs to be removed from both sides of the sealing surface. You need to use a non-residue solvent and remove all traces of antifreeze and oil from the surfaces before you apply the silicone with acetone or brake parts cleaner. Don't use carb cleaner as it leaves a residue.
Apply a bead of silicone about 1/16" or so wide into the groove, making sure there are no gaps or air bubbles. The RTV should fill the groove and stick up about as high above the housing as the groove is deep. If that makes any sense.
Put the housing on and torque the nuts (they are not very tight, so be careful).
I recommend you let the silicone cure for 24 hours if at all possible before you fill the antifreeze to help ensure you don't have any leaks.
Bugs
That uses only RTV as a sealant. There is a grove in the aluminum housing that needs to be cleaned well, and all old RTV needs to be removed from both sides of the sealing surface. You need to use a non-residue solvent and remove all traces of antifreeze and oil from the surfaces before you apply the silicone with acetone or brake parts cleaner. Don't use carb cleaner as it leaves a residue.
Apply a bead of silicone about 1/16" or so wide into the groove, making sure there are no gaps or air bubbles. The RTV should fill the groove and stick up about as high above the housing as the groove is deep. If that makes any sense.
Put the housing on and torque the nuts (they are not very tight, so be careful).
I recommend you let the silicone cure for 24 hours if at all possible before you fill the antifreeze to help ensure you don't have any leaks.
Bugs
08-04-2010, 08:28 PM
#9
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Been out of the house all day. It's not crucial but helps to let it fully cure. I've seen the system refilled right away, and other times allowing a couple of hours, and others for overnight. The short cure times always led to leaks within a couple of weeks, but 3 hours or so will probably be ok.
08-04-2010, 09:05 PM
#10
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Personally, I'd let it cure. If coolant does contaminate the seal, you'll be doing it over soon enough.
Stant thermo's, atleast, are fine for the 3vze. It's only more critical for the 22re to have an OEM thermo. Even then, it's almost debatable. I've been running a Stant in my wife's '92 3vze for a long time with no problems. That's in the hills towing a trailer.
The part is called the water inlet pipe/idler pulley for the timing belt. RTV is all you need, though.......as stated already.
Overheating on hills......not getting adequate flow or possibly fan clutch not locking up.
Stant thermo's, atleast, are fine for the 3vze. It's only more critical for the 22re to have an OEM thermo. Even then, it's almost debatable. I've been running a Stant in my wife's '92 3vze for a long time with no problems. That's in the hills towing a trailer.
The part is called the water inlet pipe/idler pulley for the timing belt. RTV is all you need, though.......as stated already.
Overheating on hills......not getting adequate flow or possibly fan clutch not locking up.
08-04-2010, 11:10 PM
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Replaced the tstat.
Used rtv for the gasket I needed on top. I let it sit for about 4 hours. refilled it, Tried. it didn't leak. I will keep a close eye on it.
I also replaced the radiator cap.
While refilling the radiator, this peice of silicone/rubber floated to the top of the coolant. I pulled it all out. Wondering if that could have caused something to clog?
Took it up the mountain tonight, It did great.
Used rtv for the gasket I needed on top. I let it sit for about 4 hours. refilled it, Tried. it didn't leak. I will keep a close eye on it.
I also replaced the radiator cap.
While refilling the radiator, this peice of silicone/rubber floated to the top of the coolant. I pulled it all out. Wondering if that could have caused something to clog?
Took it up the mountain tonight, It did great.
Last edited by 92yotarunner; 08-04-2010 at 11:12 PM.
08-04-2010, 11:40 PM
#12
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Like bugs said, 3hrs atleast. 4hrs better, though. I just meant I wouldn't fill right after sealing. So, you're fine there.
That piece of silicone is probably from your cleaning???? Theoretically it could cause something to clog, but if you took up the mountain and back, I wouldn't worry about it.
That piece of silicone is probably from your cleaning???? Theoretically it could cause something to clog, but if you took up the mountain and back, I wouldn't worry about it.
08-05-2010, 04:39 AM
#14
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My 4runner would overheat only on hills due to mineral deposits in the radiator. Changed out the radiator and thermastat and all is well now. Low coolant flow or limited heat transfer usually cause the overheating on hills issue.
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