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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Contantly getting stuck while wheeling, don't know why.

Old Apr 16, 2007 | 08:35 PM
  #21  
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From: Sierra Nevada's or the Deserts of Las Vegas
I know exaxtly what you're talking about, I have what you describe happen to me also. I'm thinkin a rear locker is in my future (can't afford both).
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 09:11 PM
  #22  
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Yes, tires do play a role, in that, the more worn your tires are, or, the more "street" your tires are, the easier they will lose traction. However, i wheeled for 3 years with zero modifications except for a good set of AT tires. It made little difference in loose gravel and other low traction environments.

Fundamentally, the reason he gets one rear wheel spinning and one front wheel spinning is that he's got open diffs.

I personally advocate leaving the truck stock and simply upgrading tires and improving driver skill. The OP seemed to wish to know what he could do to fix the problem he described, and, while better skill is certainly going to help him, the locker is the only thing that will 100% correct the specific problem he desrcibed.

Fo by fo, the suggestions made here are all good ones. Look to your tires, and as always, practice makes perfect. Stock trucks can be driven up pretty difficult terrain with enough practice.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 09:32 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by SizzleChest
are you sure you are getting drive power to the front wheels?
This may seem like a silly question. But, I could tell ya a tale about why it isn't. Another time.

So yeah, make sure you getting 4wd. Don't trust the light on the dash.
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 11:14 PM
  #24  
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From: Santa Clara California
lincoln lockers
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Old Apr 16, 2007 | 11:42 PM
  #25  
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From: Sacramento, CA (Carmichael)
If he's keeping it low key, and it sounds like a very stock runner, what about an LSD? It'd be much more streetable, and would probably solve his problem.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 12:13 AM
  #26  
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The tires I have are dunlop radial rovers. Maybe I do need more practice at driving. Sometimes when I leave it in second to climb hills, I feel like I'm going too fast to really assess the situation and becarful.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 12:14 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 89silverpu
I know exaxtly what you're talking about, I have what you describe happen to me also. I'm thinkin a rear locker is in my future (can't afford both).
I'm glad I'm not the only one, sounds like its time for lockers then. Maybe Ill just sell my truck and get a 3rd gen with an e-locker. My dream truck is a mercedes G500 but thats a little out of my price range.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 05:57 AM
  #28  
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Constantly getting suck while wheeling? Doesnt sound like a problem at all. In fact, I think I would go wheeling everyday if I got suck every time.


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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 07:33 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by msw0085
Constantly getting suck while wheeling? Doesnt sound like a problem at all. In fact, I think I would go wheeling everyday if I got suck every time.



I wasnt going to say anything but I knew someone would eventually! HAHAHAHA


Aaron
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 07:47 AM
  #30  
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From: The Republic Texas
Ditto!
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 09:50 AM
  #31  
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From: Sierra Nevada's or the Deserts of Las Vegas
Just so I don't have to start another thred here is a question on the same subject.

Would it be better to get a locker in the front of an ifs daily driver than in the rear? The locker wouldn't affect anything with the hubs unlocked and not in 4 wheel drive so there would be no side effects with a front locker, right? If so, what would the best locker be besides and ARB.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 09:55 AM
  #32  
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There's already a thread on it ...

IMHO, a front locker makes a bigger difference than rear on an IFS truck because you're much more likely to lift a front tire. Also, a front locker will help prevent as much or more damage that the e-thugs will say it causes by minimizing wheel spin.

Depends on what you mean by "best". Best for performance all around is ARB or elocker. Best for cheapest is welded + twin stick. Everything else is in between.

NOTE: if you go with a non-selectable, add $200 to the price so you can add a twinstick when you get tired of not being able to turn. http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...741bc64bd0b12a

Last edited by tc; Apr 17, 2007 at 09:56 AM.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 09:55 AM
  #33  
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i wheel my IFS w/o a locker and it does very well for what it is, running the 33x10.50 bfg muds were my best mod
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 09:58 AM
  #34  
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From: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
Good tires and a good driver will get you many place even if open.

Oh and if your getting stuck every time you go out then you're doing something wrong.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 09:59 AM
  #35  
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Originally Posted by tc
There's already a thread on it ...

IMHO, a front locker makes a bigger difference than rear on an IFS truck because you're much more likely to lift a front tire. Also, a front locker will help prevent as much or more damage that the e-thugs will say it causes by minimizing wheel spin.

Depends on what you mean by "best". Best for performance all around is ARB or elocker. Best for cheapest is welded + twin stick. Everything else is in between.

NOTE: if you go with a non-selectable, add $200 to the price so you can add a twinstick when you get tired of not being able to turn. http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...741bc64bd0b12a
twin stick will not help much with a welded front. You'd have to unlock one hub.

It works well with "lunchbox" and detroit style, becasue by going to low two, you can disengage power to the front and allow it to ratchet.

Selectable minimizes the stress to the front end, and has the advantage of being spool and open. Front selectable all the way.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 10:05 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by AxleIke
twin stick will not help much with a welded front.
Agreed, but it's the only option you can do without getting out of the truck.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 10:47 AM
  #37  
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From: Pittsburgh
Sounds to me like you need MORE RIGHT FOOT!!!! Definately so in mud and other slippery conditions. At Paragon a few weeks ago we watched this group of about 15 vehicles go past us (90% jeeps), everything from stock to highly modified. ALL but one wrangler got up this one slope on their first try. This guy seriously had 10 attempts but kept loosing traction near the top. He was a complete ˟˟˟˟˟ and never got up any momentum at all. Finally with 30+ people yelling at him to floor it, he finally hit the slope with the speed he sorely needed.
Sometimes you just need more speed....
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 11:15 AM
  #38  
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I'm new at four wheeling, and when I didn't know a thing yet, I couldn't make it up any moderate hills. I DID have the smallest tires in my group though, at 30x9.50x15 Trailcat All-Terrains. After a little practice and experience I was now able to make it up everything my group made it through, even with the smaller tires. But I did have to build momentum. I now have 32x11.50x15 Goodyear MT/R's with my stock suspension on my truck, and have noticed that I could go up obstacles a lot slower if I wanted to than with my old all-terrains. From my personal experience, driver experience is the most important aspect here, with tires being second. Good luck!
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 03:54 PM
  #39  
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x2 on the seat time and tires. watch and ask the more experienced folks why they do things a certain way, then give it a try. have one of them spot for you, that helps quite a bit as well.

good luck.

lee
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 04:05 PM
  #40  
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i get stuck in the mud a lot, but my truck with open diffs and me behind the wheel can go quite a few places...just get used to your rig more
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