well i have a 93 toyota pickup with the add hubs and going to put in the 4" pro comp lift and want to switch out my hubs.
I got a quote for manual hub for 150 (pair) and asked how much is it for the conversion kit, and he said 1000.

my questions are:
1. do i really have to change my hubs when lifting truck to save countless cv's?
2. is warn and aisin manual hubs really different, conversion wise?
3. do i need some sort of conversion kit to change out my add hubs?

p.s. I saw some tutorial that shows i just need to switch out hub faces and disconnect one vacuum or something like that.

 

Here are the straight facts.

I had ADD on my 91 pickup.
I picked up a set of used Aisin hubs (the strongest and probibly the best hubs you can buy, and the price will reflect that)

To switch from ADD to the aisins you dont need anything but the hubs.

The add flange comes off, and the manual hub bolts on. 100% direct bolt up.

 

thanks jay, see we need some straight answers. I've been searching all over this site and there goin of topic and such.

seems like were on here all the time jay (but it's a good thing)

 

I can't belive im up this late!

But threads tend to get alot of offtopic banter, but it can be fun

But I'd like to know who wanted to sell you a conversion kit for manual hubs for a grand! Perhaps they were thinking of the 4th gen trucks

 

yeah, i think they were thinking of the tacoma's and newer 4runners. But yeah i'm stoked it'll be an easy swap. Now just gotta see if anyone has aisins in hawaii, before the last resort...warn hubs

 

Just did this conversion today on my 91 4Runner. Picked up a set of Aisin manual hubs from the pick and pull yard. They were having a 1/2 off sale so I got them for $30. The switch is really easy. You don't even have to pull the wheel off.

 

So what's wrong with the ADD and lift?

 

The problem is when you lift the front end of these trucks, you usually put the cv-joints at a greater angle, thus increasing the chance of a boot failure that will eventually lead to the failure of the cv joint itself. With manual hubs you can unlock them for street driving so the cv joints will not be turning so they will not rip the boots. You will also get a little extra mpg and obviously less wear and tear on your front end.

The only downside is you have to get out of the truck to lock/unlock your hubs. A small price that many will pay

 

Yes indeed.
Like to tell everyone that I love my truck, yotatech and my ps3 (currently typing this tread all on my ps3).

Also, have fun wheelin all you guys...now and forever more....because I will.

 

Not to mention the fact that with the ADD hubs it will disengage the hub with a 1/4 turn in reverse, or in other words, no 4wd in reverse.

EDIT: Oh, wait. Or am I thinking of the AUTO hubs? Hmm.

 

Yep, you are thinkin of the infamous auto hubs that where an option on the 2nd gen trucks.

The add hubs are nothing more then just a solid flange that locks the hub in place. No different then having manual hubs but locked all the time.

 

I have 1994 pickup add hubs I changed to manual hubs this weekend and all you do is take the add off and bolt the manual on NO conversion kit the cone washers need a good wak to pop them off install took 20 minutes 5 minutes to make new gaskets

 

I replaced my hubs in about an hour. Pick up gaskets from the Toyota dealership before you do.

You might want to consider removing your VSV setup from the side of the fender and have vacuum applied to the front actuator all the time.

 

wait isn't the gasket already in the kit? what is the actual name of the gasket? (hub gasket) and need some explainin on the second paragraph about the vacuum. I know I have to remove the plug for the vacuum, but that's all I know.

 

There is a conversion kit needed to swap from auto hubs to manual hubs but even that doesn't cost $1k. I'd like to know the name of the dealer that wanted to charge you that too...

 

I think I have the auto hubs. There has to be a way to defeat the reverse problem?

 

http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/ar....jsp?id=399612

It makes sure that the sleeve is constantly connected.

I'm not sure if the gasket is in the kit. The ones I bought are about 5" across with 12 holes in them.

 

There is no reverse problem with auto hubs. They only disengage for about 1/4 turn of the wheel. Then they engage again. So, now you get 4WD in reverse. It isn't usually that big of a deal. I'm sure you've had your tires slip more than a 1/4 turn plenty of times.

 

thanks robD.

and for the person asking what brand/kind of conversion kit for the $1000, it was my fault asking the salesman because he taught i had a tacoma.

 

Thank you! I never really get into reverse much. Did'nt know I'll just keep em.