thought about a cold air intake for my 22re but i dont see the point, i did my exhaust straight piped to a stack through the bed right behind my head and it makes a hell of a note, ud think it was a diesel at low rpms comeing down the highway, and improved 2-3 mpg, smooth air in and smooth air out, thats what the stock intake does just fine, a KN filter will help with airflow and dust blockage or sure, but this cold air intake tubes are nothing but a waste due to the metal fact, it heats the air even more thus loseing power, and the cone filter is cheap so your not going to get much debris blockage

 

This unit is a waste of time and $. It's really not getting any colder air than the stock filter housing. In fact the stock filter housing is probably better because it is sealed and keeps the hot air from your fan out of the filter. The other problem is with that metal pipe getting super heated from the fan blowing all the radiator heat on it. Thus defeating the whole cold air concept.

 

I second the above waste of time opinion.

I dynoed the K&N cold air intake on my old supercharged 3.4 tacoma, as well as every possible air filter we could find. The day of testing was able to prove that NOTHING generates more horsepower than a factory toyota air filter that is clean. Even the K&N drop in filter lost ~2.6hp at the rear wheels. The worst was the cone filter+plastic intake combo, it sounded rice, but ended up losing about 8hp. The guy explained that the excess turbulence caused by large orifice aftermarket filters creates inaccurate readings on the hotwire MAF which causes alternating lean and rich conditions which cannot be corrected fast enough by the ecu, thus lowering your HP.

In that case, we simply cut the front of the airbox out for more airflow and left the factory filter installed. Only gained about 5hp... which is pretty weak.

 

^ Good post, I am getting a stock filter today, seat of pants test.

 

one thing that i have not seen addressed is the fact the ecu needs to reset to the additional air from an open filter.
i'd like to find a stock airbox to try.
not trying to argue, just a thought.

 

You are right, I totally forgot about that. I did have to reset the ecu for every dyno run.

 

I wonder what the TSA of the cone and flat stock filter is? I know the pleats come into the equation. But for now just visual SA? I need the circmference of the top and bottom of the filter and its height.......?

 

I already bought a NAPA Gold air filter which is set up like the stock yota filter, I believe. Now I'm torn between the k&n and the stock filter. I just might go back to the stocker. I was actually thinking about the possibility of the intake air being heated by the metal tube with no covering. Summit sells reflective woven tape that I used on my f350 on wires that were close to the headers. But now that I'm thinking about it, I have a big roll of Reflectix in my garage...it's that stuff that's essentially bubble wrap with foil on both sides. Hmm...got me thinking.

Dirt driver, thanks for your responses to my questions.

Thanks for the info, Duffdog.

Greg, I will take pix of everything installed.

 

You want to use the gold reflective material. Gold is the best at reflecting heat. As for filters I would go with the k&n and stock box. Second best option would be stock box and denso filter.

 

i think the ecu takes more time than that to adjust itself for the additional air.
maybe that is why i have heard the stock airbox is good for 10 hp on the dyno. idk.

 

Just for yuks, out with the K&N in with a stock filter. I will clean and oil the K&N and set it aside just in case.

 

Ooops here it is..

 

I wish someone would post some type of temperature readings or have a couple of pyrometer sensors monitoring the heat at different points like into the metal pipe, and near the cone filter. If you can verify temps with scientific readings rather than "seat-o-the-pants" or personal opinions about how something appears to be made I would consider it. I drive on pavement, all the time and this works for me..

 

I could not imagine a metal pipe getting so hot as to affect the airflow temp. And come to think of it the airflow itself around an open filter should be enough to draw air thats not hot? OK I'm just thinking out load, so when you're crawling could the air then be too hot. Well anyway I put a stock filter back in. No seat of pants diff.

 

I just ran out and bought a drop in K&N 33-2050-1 part # and stuck the stock box and pipe back in and will do mileage and power tests this next week.In my humble opinion.. I would LOVE to see scientific airflow temp data to back up some of the opinions.

 

It still pulls air from outside the engine bay, that's the point.

Not really applicable to a trap-door air metering system, is it?

The ECU constantly adjusts to sensor feedback. There is no real need to reset it just from changing the filter. It will take about as long to compensate without a reset as it would with a reset.

I was hoping you would.

 

Well since the burden of proof is technically on those who say the temps are higher and that the CAI is a waste I'd like for them to show Intake air temp readings so that it gives validity to what they claim. I'd be more than willing to put the stock box back in for good if they can show me otherwise.

 

Realistically speaking, you would probably have to drop atmospheric temps pretty low, 40* or lower, or get a lot of engine heat, (standstill traffic summertime LA) to see a temp difference you could feel with a butt dyno. Would probably need true dyno runs to see it. That said..CAI is a...misnomer. It isn't any colder than ambient air flowing through a stock air box. Less restrictive, possibly. But the total cheapness of the filter, (disintegration) and the chokepoint in the VAFM, could result in at best, no difference, or at worst, inhaling filter chunks. Not to mention, the stock arrangement is the most environment proof, short of adding a snorkel. But I'm a sucker for stock/OEM, as it's most reliable and proven. My $.02.

 

Yeah Carl, a misnomer. It should be sold as a "larger volume air intake" or something, since it's not necessarily "colder" air. Maybe a better cone filter like a K&N or something that fits that is proven not to disintegrate would be best.

 

Ah have an idear... anybody near me that would be interested in some scientific research? I'm gonna look into some temp probes around here, cheap ones, and if they're really cheap, maybe somebody could do a setup on their non-OEM intake/CAI'ed rig. It would entail some note taking... anybody?