Installed new clutch. Adjustment rod needs adjusted out further but ran out of threads. Has anyone removed and lengthened the rod leading to the master from the pedal in order to gain more threads? I know a new master is cheap but this is more of a "can i do it" experiment.

 

Are you adjusting it according to the FSM, or just guesstimating?

I've never known the FSM to be mistaken about this adjustment. Doesn't mean it CANT be wrong, just that I've never seen it, through 4 clutches on my pickup, and 3 on my 87 4Runner. IOW, I've never run out of threads, in either direction.

Is the MC tightened down on the firewall correctly? Is the pedal mount not cracked? Is there a Cruise Control disable switch on the clutch pedal, and if so, is IT adjusted properly? Did the MC, not to mention the whole system, get bled out properly?

I'm just trying to think of any reason the rod isn't long enough. Or at least, appears to not be long enough. Or too long. Whichever problem you have. What I'm saying is, whichever end of the rod needs more threads, the pedal end, or the MC end.

Good luck, and let us know how things turn out
Pat☺

 

I just acquired the truck it's a beater with a heater Had to replace the motor at which time I installed a new clutch. It's blood properly I did it twice. The clutch works but only if it's buried to the floor Even if you let up a 1/2 inch or so it engages I'll check and see if anything's cracked I'm needing more threads on the pedal end of t he rod

 

Check the MC doesn't have any air in it. Even after the system gets bled, the MC can have air in it. You can bleed the MC by pulling off the line down to the SC, and moving the pushrod slowly from end to end. Make sure to keep the reservoir filled with fluid, and that you don't over-throw the MC's piston. Be very slow and gentle.
Check the slave cylinder's push rod is installed correctly. It doesn't have a very long throw.
Check that the release fork is not cracked, and mounted right way around. It matters. IE: the correct side faces forward.
Does the pedal hold the clutch disengaged when it's down to the floor? IE: Does the clutch slowly engage while the pedal is still on the floor? If it does, that indicates a bad o-ring in the MC. Does the clutch START to engage at 1/2 inch off the floor, or does it suddenly go from disengaged to fully engaged in that 1/2" throw?
Are you adjusting the pushrod and pedal according to the FSM? I can post the procedure out of "THE Book" if you want.

Honestly, to me it sounds like the MC is gone bad on you. I, personally, would replace it, and adjust the pedal correctly according to the book. Make sure to bleed out the MC before you hook it's hydraulic line down to the SC up.You said you bled the system twice. Is the fluid still in the system nice and clean? No discoloration at all? IOW: new fluid all through the entire system.

Unless it's actually broken, I can't think of any way to get more threads, or a longer pushrod. I mean, it only comes with so many threads along a specific portion of the rod. I, personally, am not aware of any way to get a longer rod, without making one yourself.

Sorry this isn't super helpful. I wish you all the best, though.
Pat☺

 

The sole purpose of the adjustment between the clutch pedal and the clutch master cylinder, is to insure that a tiny bit of slack exists there; so that the master cylinder piston might come fully back to its resting position.

This ensures that all pressure is removed from the slave, so that the clutch can fully engage and so that there is no residual force applied to the throw out bearing when the pedal is up.

Make that rod adjustment so that there is just a tiny amount of slack between the rod and the master cylinder piston, and look to your clutch engagement problems elsewhere.

 

That's exactly what i am trying to do. To adjust it to that point only leaves a thread or two on the rod connecting rod attached.

Yes, it starts to engage immediately as you let up from the floor with the pedal. With it pushed all the way down it barely is enough to shift and not quite enough to get in reverse smoothly.

Yes, bench bled master. No help. Came to the same conclusion that the master is just wore out. Gonna order a new master and slave. Fyi, i removed the rod, cut it and sleeved it and made it about quarter inch longer. Didn't really help at all.

Thanx for the input all.

 

Something is wrong !

Wrong Clutch release bearing !

Clutch Plate could be wrong.

The clutch Fork is starting to break

Firewall or clutch bracket cracking!

 

Parts are all correct. Came as a set from Luk . Nothing is broken as i just had it all apart and cleaned everything. Only assembles one way. It works, just needs a little bit more throw. I have to force it into reverse as it grinds slightly when trying to shift it in. Ordered new Asin master and slave yesterday.

 

symptoms mimic a failing slave cylinder, too. but, if you keep firing the parts cannon, eventually you'll get it (or run out of money).

 

Just because it came all in a Clutch kit does not mean it is correct!

Speaking Of LUK I got the Turbo Clutch in the stock Clutch in the stock clutch kit. Wrong Parts in the Correct Box

The pins on the fly wheel are different.

Best of Luck!!